Hello I have a 1994 Volvo 850 wagon (N/A unfortunately).

A little bit of History/Background

From the time that I bought the $400.00 car I have been having issues starting from the exhaust system to the Fuel/Ignition system.
Most of you have had some sort of issue with the gauge cluster like an odometer stopping after so many miles. mine stopped at 167,000 miles.
well I did the Diag. socket A trick to find the mileage and the computer said it was like 197,000 miles so my car is very tired being that it wasn't taken care of.

so getting to my question. I have found a 2000 Volvo S80 T6 Twin Turbo and was wondering if anyone knew what it would take and how to wire it up to make it run in the 94' 850???

 

Nope, nothing you can use from the S80 will work with your 850.

In fact, if you want a turbo 850, it'll be easier and cheaper to sell yours n/a and buy a turbo. You can "turbo" an n/a car, it just isn't worth the effort if you considering a turbo 850 can be bought for 2k or less.

 

alright I was mostly wondering because I have seen people put the S80 T6 into 1980's Volvo 240's

 

That kind of project require money, time, fabrication skills, and etc.

And if you have to depend on it as a daily driver, forget it.

 

Ha alright I'll just have to send it to the junkyard because I cant seem to figure out what it's problems are.

 

You might want to write a detail description of the problems you're experiencing.

 

I do have time and Fabrication skill's I work for a Restoration/Customs shop and do basically everything but im the guy that has to work on vintage Porsche vehicals because no one else wants to.
I am in the prosses of getting a new Daily driver until I can figure something out with this car.

I'm almost to the point of putting my Mercedes OM617 Turbo Diesel into it instead of my 85' GMC S15 Jimmy

 

Where are you, Jordan? Sounds like an interesting project.

Anyway, it's possible to power anything with anything. There really is only one rule. You make the engine think it's still at home. You provide whatever it needs to think it's still where it's supposed to be. As a result, you must always start with a complete car for a donor unless you are stark raving mad.

The problem with the S80 sideways inline six, of course, is that it's just so darn wide. When you put it in to a 240, you turn it around. A second problem is that the 2000 S80 T6 is remarkably unreliable.

By comparison, the NA 850 is incredibly reliable. If you don't like keeping the NA 850 running, you would be in howling misery trying to take care of the S80 T6. Of course, you would at least have 3X the horsepower for your trouble.

 

well there are serious issues that it is having

I'll go through my daily routine.

In the morning I get ready for work then when i get in the car to leave i have to wait till the fuel system is fully primed up then i have to crank it over for about 25-30 seconds then it puts till its close to its idle speed and it finally rev's up to its normal idle.
then i have to sit there until the temp gauge is close to the normal half way mark. at that time I can actually get the car moving otherwise it acts like its out of gas and it basically acts like it doesn't have any fuel getting to the injectors for about 30 seconds of driving (roughly 1-2 blocks).

Now Accelerating onto the highway is pretty bad it got to the point of having to have it in sport mode just to get the RPM up to keep accelerating and it takes roughly .75-1 mile to get to 70 MPH

and the brakes suck very much it feels like the car weighs 6,000 pounds

 

Sounds like a simple fuel pump and fuel filter change will solve most of your issues.

Then bleed the brakes, and/or change pads/rotors.

 

Well I'm from Kaukauna, WI and have done many "impossible things"
like I made a 4L60E GM S10 Transmission work without a single issue with a carburated engine. (there was an existing how to guide but the guy making it gave up and was never able to make it work properly) but I so far have made it function just like the factory.

on the otherhand I had 2 Toyota Supras 87' 90'
I had wiring nightmares and couldn't ever get the 551 hp out of them because they kept hitting 2,800 rpm then they would die and were also blowing Black smoke.

so there are things that i will eventually give up on usually after about 2-3 years and countless days trying to make it work.

 

the issue with all of that is that I have replaced just about everything.
(sorry was going to add that but got side tracked)
new parts list:
Fuel Pump
Air and Fuel filter
Tps
MAF
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel Injectors
Trans fluid change
cap,rotor,plugs
last owner did the cam pos sensor and coil pack

made the Variable intake system move again last night

 

Check the codes?
Check the fuel pressure?

 

I have done that and don't have a single code the only thing that pops up from time to time is a 2-4-1 EGR INCORRECT FLOW.
And the fuel pressure was at 41 psi

 

Some thoughts on the 850.
1. It sounds like the engine temperature is a big factor. That is not unusual on these cars to have a coolant temperature failure. If it thinks the engine is already warmed up then this sort of fits those symptoms. The fix there is replace the temperature sensor. On an OBDII car you can read that directly and judge whether you personally agree with the coolant temperature sensor or not. The 94 NA 850 doesn't allow that. I don't like to replace things just to see if it helps.
2. The lack of power is not too surprising, but you could look to see if it's out of time by a tooth, and check the compression. You did not list plug wires, but I would think you probably replaced those already. Bad plug wires will cause you to want to keep the rpms up, so some of what you posted suggests that may be a problem. Also note the plug gap on these cars is tiny, and I guess they operate at low voltage. Because of that I think you want copper plugs. I had a couple of older cars that even with much higher voltage wouldn't tolerate platinum plugs. Best diagnoses I can list for plug wires is misfiring only at high cylinder pressure followed by looking at the wires at night in the dark with the engine running. Again, I don't like to replace things just to see if they're bad.


Here's a web site with ohm specifications for the coolant temperature sensor. Not sure where he got these, so there may be a better reference somewhere. https://volvo850wagon.wordpress.com/...gine-stalling/