Guys,

As I posted earlier I was having problems with my ABS module 1994 ATE. I installed the ABS module I got from Ebay for $40. It was confirmed by the seller that it came from his personal car and had NO problems. He is a very reputable seller so I trusted him.

He was correct the module works flawlessly! No more ABS light. I test drove the car VERY VERY hard on the brakes and TRACs in a Gravel parking lot and other empty roads and it works perfectly.

Except!!! (This has got to be related to the rest of the brake system not the module)

Every so often after a hard stop on the next stop if it is slow or soft the back end of the car VIBRATES like an EARTHQUAKE!

I read somewhere about a recall having something to do with ABS sensor wiring. Could this recal not have been done?

One other note that might possible have something to do with it. 2 Weeks ago I installed a Power Inverter in the trunk of the car next to the amp I had. I had to run the fuse block and 8 gauge wires near the ABD module. Could EMF from the power wires be affecting it?

This is random, yet consistant to normal stops that immediately follow a hard stop by less than 15 seconds. It does not do it any other time.

 

I may have solved my own problem! Not sure but I will try this first!

New shims to minimize resonance vibrations, rear

If a customer complains of resonant vibrations from the rear of the car when braking at low speed (frequently when the brake discs are hot after repeated braking), the problem can be fixed by replacing the shims. A kit with a new type of shim has been produced for the rear brake calipers. The kit has P/N 272272-6 (kit contains 4 shims).

(Resonant vibrations are experienced usually when the car has new rear brake discs/pads).

The service manual referred to in this service bulletin is the Service Manual Section 5
Brakes (incl. ABS and TRACS) 850 1992- TP 5001201 or
Brakes (incl. ABS and TRACS) 850 1996- TP 5002202

 

+1 on the shims!!!

 

Yeah, I replaced the rear pads last week while on Vacation in NJ in the parking of an Advance Auto Parts. I used the original shims. I am pretty certain that they were OE not these "upgraded" shims. I will stop at the dealer tommorrow and ask to see the shims mentioned in the article above. If they look different I will buy and try them out.

BTW Tech, Even though you said the early ABS modules are not prone to failure mine did and the other day I was at Advance Autoparts and a guy was outside with a white 94' 850 Turbo. He had some contact cleaner and was cleaning the contacts on the ABS computer. I aksed what was up? and he said damn thing keeps saying bad wheel sensors. He had spent over $400 on the wheel sensors and still had ABS Light. He cleaned contacts, drove up the street a way's and came back. NFG still got the light. I suggested a new module he was going to search the local junk yards. So it looks as though maybe the failures just have a delayed onset and now they are starting to crop up??

 

My '94 T5 also had a faulty ABS module. It kept reporting "this switch, that sensor, etc..". Every time I checked for codes, it reported different codes and I was ready to grab my hammer...[8D]

It seems that the '94 ABS module fails in a different manner than the later models'. I did a research in Japanese web sites and this guy actually took the module apart for repair, and the most likely culprit was cracked soldering around the connector. Also, J.Telectro has posted a thread in which I contributed pics & procedures from that Japanese website. If a person has basic knowledge & skills to work on electronics, the repair seemed well within home mechanics capabilities.


JPN

 

Further update,

Took the car for another ride after the earlier post, and GUESS WHAT? The damn light came back on!! This time I got codes for all 4 Wheel Sensors, the pedal sensor and the brake light switch. It was clean after the first test drive for 1 hour. I am now pretty sure that the power wires for the amp and inverter are probably setting throwing interference at the module. I will try re-locating the wiring and see if that clears it up. If not I might actually spend the money to have it checked out at the dealer. They can use a "breakout" box and check all sensors and wiring.

 

If your amp and inverter wires are shielded and properly grounded then it is almost impossible to be generating any kind of EMI. Is your connection taken directly from the battery positive terminal or from the wiring harness? If this is the case then be careful with the amperage, you might burn the harness, or affect other subsystems.

 

Yes, The 10 Gauge wire goes right to the battery + terminal. But alongside the ABS module I mounted a Fuse Block. I think this might be where it is coming from. Also the inverter could create a lot of ripples since it is creating AC @ 60Hz. I am moving it and checking to see if the problem clears up. I am also going to clean all the grounds I can find and add an aditional ground to the Module mount itself. I cannot beleive that the module worked fine and then POOF! ALL the senors went bad at once?>>

 

Well,

I moved the wiring away from the ABS module, BUT I found what might be the answer. There is a connector right on the strut tower by the ABS module. I do not know why I did not see it before. It seems to house the wires from the wheel sensors and the pedal position sensor. I undid it and cleaned the contacts. Plugged it and un plugged it a few times and either moving the amp power wires or cleaning the contacts solved the problem. (fingers crossed) I am leaning towards the connector on the strut tower. I am taking a drive tonight with the wife so if we get no ABS light it should be fine. Also, the evap valve was fine. I bought a new gas cap and that seems to have solved the EVAP code.

Man, I took a 5 mile ride and it was weird not see see any lights on the dash!!!

Oh, and BTW I bought the shims from the Dealer today will install tommorrow. They are different than the original shims. These are shaped so that the pads will wear in with a little Toe-In.

 

Great news! Keep us posted.