heres another possibility Red, if the connection is firm on the pump iteself. most pumps have some sort of check valve on it. this valve opens for fuel to leave the tank headed for the engine. it does not however let fuel flow back into the tank. This valve, if functioning correctly, holds fuel in the line at all times, so that gas is already in the line when you go to fire it up. If the valve fails (or theres some sort of vacuum leak, theres enough pressure with the car running (and fuel pump running) to keep it running most of the time, but it can make for difficult starts (or no starts)

 

 

Hi Jimmy,

>Oh, and don't call me "hun" coming from a man, it's kind of weird lol.
Sorry I made you feel uneasy, I must've been using it, thinking it was "eh?" or "huh?". Hey, after all English is my 2nd language.

>So are you saying that when I bump it, it gets the pump going real quick and then because of the pump going a little bit, the pressure is there and then the engine can run?
The problem is most likely inside the pumpassembly and it probably brings it back to life for a short period of time when you bump it. The best way to check for it is to switch with a known good unit.

If possible, takethe caroutside the garage. If not, make sure that you do have a good ventilation inside the garage. Remember, the fuel system is one of the most hazardous systems to work on, and make sure to do your homework before digging into it.

>However, is it a bit strange that this occurred AFTER I filled up the tank to 8-9 gallons??
It may have changed something internally when you filled up the tank. The pump might have sucked air before you filled up, then when you filled up, it might have played a trick. Also, I remember your 850 was once rear-ended, right? It may havedone some damageto the pump as well.

>I'm looking at a universal fuel pump off eBay so I'm probably just going to replace the entire unit.
Or is there a junkyard near you? If you plan to keep your 850 for a while, I would find a genuine Volvo pump.

To relieve the system pressure, the manual calls for special tool and relieve the pressure at 2 locations; one in the engine compartment and the other close to the fuel filter (Schroeder valves (Schrader?)). I usually do it by pulling out the fuel pump fuse/relay while at idle; this kills the engine in a few seconds. After that, I crank the engine for approx. 10 seconds. Whatever you do, do it SLOW and do not hurry.

If you have any doubt doing the job, have it done at a shop.

I hope your 850 comes back to life soon.


JPN

 

This is the pump.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-PUMP-V...sspagenameZWDVW
I'd love to take the car out of the garage, but my driveway is very steep and slanted...Plus, it's COLD here... (I heard Texas got snow yesterday)

 

Hi Jimmy,

As for the pump insert you found, I cannot say anything, as I did not find the brand name (probably their original). Ask to see if they have any warranty on it. You will have to take the original pump out, do a minor disassembly in order to fit the new insert.

If you cannot take your car out of the garage, well, make sure to have a good ventilation & class-B fire extinguisher (consider the price difference between a bottle of extinguisher & your house), remove all sources of fire & spark, and take a break once every 20 minutes or so. It would be much safer to have an assistant. If possible, use brass tools and avoid hitting things. I would also like to say that you should weara respirator, but the respirators designed for gas fumes are very pricey ($100-$200).

Remember, most people neglect safety until it's too late. Do your homework & pay attention to what you do during repair.


JPN

 

^Wait, that's just an insert? Because as a newb, it looks like a fuel pump..
And the warranty I believe is 1 year.

Someone told me I will consume more fuel with this pump....Will I see performance gains? lol.

 

Hm........Makes sense...
But assuming this theory is correct, my fuel pump is still dead correct? Or could I adjust said valve?

 

Jimmy,

If it's just the valve that needs servicing, someone has already done it, including the dealer. But have you heard of anyone doing it? I haven't. If Tech has done it, I believe it is repairable. However, the fuel pump on 850 (or any car, due to the wear on motor brush & commutator) is noted for failure after certain miles/years, and even if it was the valve, which was not mentioned anywhere in the service manuals I read (unless I missed it), it may fail again and in such case, you would have to get to it once again. Given this theory, I don't think it's reliable to mess with the valve (if there is one in 850) and I wouldn't recommend unnecessary disassembly of the fuel pump, other than theinsert replacementdue to safety reasons.

The insert, I believe, is the core and that is the part that needs replacement. But in order to replace the insert, as you can probably see, you'd have to do a minor disassembly as the vendor has replied (I cannot believe they don't have service instructions for something like that). Look at the 3 pics I attached earlier, the first one is the entire assembly, which does not require disassembly of the pump itself; you take out the old pump and put the new one in. As for the insert, you take out the old pump, remove the insert somehow, put the new insert in and then put the pump back.

As for power gain, I doubt it. You cannot gain engine output just by using a high-flow pump. It will simply make the fuel pressure regulatorallow more fuel return back to the tank. Also, it may put a bit more stress along the fuel supply lines and may cause leak, unless the flow difference is not dramatically different.

Ask a technician at a Volvo dealer/specialised shop about replacing the insert alone, as compared to replacing the entire unit (and if possible, ask him/her for a brief instruction for the insert replacement). Also, check the pump relay one last time, with a test light/digital multimeter.

You're no longer a newbie. You've been with this forum for a while and have done some jobs yourself. A newbie is someone who thinks he/she knowsa lotabout modern cars and cannot even keep the correct coolant level. Read the service manual, and you'll be surprised how much maintenance you can do on your own, in a year of reading & getting hands dirty, as well as what services to entrust to a shop.


JPN

P.S: When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? Fuel filter is often neglected, and the one on the F350 at work in Chicago had the original filter, which was about 15 years old. If unknown, this may be a good time to replace it as well if you can afford it (Bosch is about $18 I believe).

 

^I'll check up on fuel filter replacement.

But GOOD NEWS (?). I tried to start it today, and it started! The pump was priming and everything.

However, the car had some white smoke, and from the exaust it was definetely running rich....So anyone have a clue what the problem is in this case? lol.

 

the smoke doesnt neccessarily mean its running rich, it could be a few other things as well.
As JPN stated before regarding the pump, it still could be the pump itself. Like many other parts on their way out, can intermittantly work and not work.

 

Reading through this thread, you've statedthe vehicle has been run with onlya small amount of fuel in the tank on many occasions.

This is a prime way to pick up any rubbish that may be laying about in your tank.

It is possible asmall piece of accumulated gunk (i.e. varnish, fluff, etc.) haslodged in the fuellinepick-up due to thesuction of the fuel pump and this gunk may be intermittently restrictingfuel supply to the engine.

Therefore the fuel pump may have to be taken out and all parts thoroughly inspected to see if the problem is caused by one of thesesort of innocuous,annoying, but very-hard-to-track-down type offaults.

Best of luck with your investigation.

 

Yeah. Before this, I never knew it was bad.

So you guys think I should replace my fuel pump anyways? Or at least check these lines? And are the lines easy to check or would I be best off doing it at a mechanic?

 

If you are not confident aboutdoing this sort of investigation/repair, I would suggest you have it doneby a reputable mechanic because, if you happen to getan unexpected spark or similar while working in this general area,then poof - she's up in flames before you can say "Jack Robinson".

 

Bad news guys. After working for a week, my pump failed again lol...

Just bought one.. So hopefully problem will be solved soon.

 

Here's my post at Volvo Speed...

" So I just ordered a pump off Ebay and it should be getting here soon...

However, I've been looking at install procedure, and it looks incredibly intimidating...

First I understand I need to relieve the fuel pressure.

I've found this link, but it's not really that specific. And I really have no clue what it's talking about..
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/service/8...allOverhaul.pdf

Over at Volvoforums, I got this reply.
[/align]

Does this work? Can I just pull the relay instead? It's not as intimidating as whatever the link is specifying...And I'd be much more comfortable doing this... Oh, and I was doing some more reading and I tried to use the taping procedure today, and my car didn't seem to want to start...Can I still do the relay procedure in this case or should I just keep banging the tank and hoping it will run.

Next, I can use that same link and this one:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/phpB...topic.php?t=348

It shows the procedure to get the pump out.
However, where/how can I get these special tools? I have absolutely zero skills in welding and I'm not sure as to how I should make this tool.

Someone on that second link stated.
[/align]
Does this mean I have to find an adjustable oil filter wrench? Because the ones you buy at the store if i remember correctly can't fit a rachet...It's more of a clamp if I remember correctly...

Finally...
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=30882
That's the procedure to get the new pump in. This seems pretty straight forward...However, can I get by without needle nose pliers? It's a 20 dollar tool, and my friend lost his...

Thanks a lot for your help,
-Jimmy

Edit: Need nose pliers are not 20 bucks. I was thinking about Snap-ring pliers.

 

sorry, mis-fire on the wrong thread. ignore this.

 

Hi Jimmy,

As for pulling the pump relay/fuse, it was actually the fuse I removed. Sorry for the confusion, you don't have to bother the relay. Also, when you crank the engine with the fuse off, don't crank it more than 10 seconds, as fuel is still supplied into the engine from the residual fuel in the system, which is how the system pressure is relieved. I also remove the fuel filler cap.

Welding requires great amount of practice & special equipment, and at this stage don't think about it. A pair of pliers shouldn't cost $20, unless you want Snap-on (and Snap-on pliers are not that great). You can find one for $5 or so at Wal-mart or hardware store (but note, cheap tools are usually made in China and are known to break/deform prematurely). I would get one at a Sears Craftsman, one that's made in USA. Not an absolute necessityforwhat you're trying to do but it is something you need sooner/later.

The pump insert I looked at VS looked noticeably different from the OEM. It was not only shorter but also looked smaller in diameter; probably the reason why they supply you with that rubber insert. I would have used Bosch unit but who knows,the one you boughtmay work just as well. I also circled the "pump strainer", which is the 1st stage filter for the fuel system. I hope your new pump comes with new strainer as well. I also circled the black rubber ring, which looked like a replacement item for good installation. I have a feeling that you're still unsure about the procedure, so if I were you, I would give up $100-$150 and have it done at a dealer/shop, if they accept parts from you. I know $150 isn't cheap, but consider the difference between $150 and your safety/car.

If you still decide to do it yourself, remember to disconnect the negative battery cable, remove all sources of fire & spark from your garage, have a fire extinguisher within easy reach and try doing it when someone else is at home where they can hear you. Also, have a good ventilation. I've been repeating these for many times, becauseI don't want you to mess up.

Here's a copy & paste from Walbro (not sure if this is thebrand you bought):

[align=center]Leading causes of Walbro Fuel Pump Death[/align][*][align=left]Debris, normally in the form of fine silt that can make its way past the 30 micron filter sock. When no filter-sock is used or if it is not installed properly, it is not unheard of to find pieces of sand, string, metal shavings, and rubber bits. This is what kills 99% of all Walbro Fuel pumps.[/align][*][align=left]Water present in tank (corrosion of the pump gears)[/align][*][align=left]Dropping of the pump, can break off the nipple at the very least. Dropping the fuel pump can also knock off the cam ring causing the fuel pump to bind and either decrease flow or completely bind up the fuel pump. Dropping the pump can also break the internal magnets and weaken or destroy the magnetic field cause decreased output or no output. [/align][*][align=left]Operating the fuel pump without fuel; this melts some of the internal gears.[/align][*][align=left]Using the fuel pump in a returnless (pulse width modulated) fuel system. (Late model Mustang, RSX, etc...) [/align][ol][/ol]
As to the oil filter wrench, I'll attach a pic. I don't like adjustable ones, I usually get the one that fits my filter perfectly, and they are cheap (Pep-Boys sells them and they're like $3 each. They are made in China but it's ok; you're not gonna be changing 5 filters a day). Bring your new filter to an auto parts store and find thewrench that matches. They attach to 3/8" drive tools.

If you still don't have a Haynes manual, get it.


JPN

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/DCCC4F1C1DAC473389AA8F83D28F9399.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/E8FE5AE68B7741F2890D852E0EDCD254.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/18E7474AABA8469988514FC2C86DD4D2.jpg[/IMG]

 

What color is the negative terminal?

 

Hi Jimmy,

In general, negative battery cable is black and the positive is red. The best way to find it is to see the marks on the battery; it should have "+" and "-" marks at the bottom of each post.

The reason why service manuals tell you to disconnect the negative battery is to avoid accidental short circuit; if a wrench/metal tooltouches between the positive (+) and the body of the car, it may create short circuit. If a short circuit is created, it may damage the battery, cause spark and possible explosion of the battery, especially when the battery is low on charge. This is why you don't want to connect jumper cable between the negative posts of the two batteries. Always connect the negative jumper cable on the dead car to the engine block, as far away from the battery as possible.

Cars, as well as many other vehicles, use what is called "chassis ground (earth)", which means they use the entire body structure as the negative return line.

When it's time for you to buy a new battery, I highly recommend this:

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/e...k%7C1&js=1

Interstate also has a brief but good tutorial on battery:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/w...tech_maint.htm

I myself like using 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6-point socket when disconnecting battery cables.

I hope I answered your question.


JPN

 

Just changed out the pump!

Car still won't start~!!

Anyone got a clue why? It will crank violently, but no spark or whatever for the car to actually start.