Hello, first time here.

So I turned on my 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo today and the check engine light came on.
Popped the hood and noticed a small amount of smoke and a hissing sound coming from this general area.



I bought this a month back and I haven't really studied the engine yet. Any ideas?

Also, I'm 100% sure I have a bad heater core as well and I'm just wondering if that has any link to it.

Thanks!

 

Hi and welcome to the forum.

You really should fix that heater core before you blow the motor. Coolant roulette is dangerous for cars.

I can't really tell exactly where the smoke is coming from but it is likely from the PTC area. That is part of the PCV system.

 

 

 

 

Oh, you should have the codes read and go from there. You can post them here for opinions. An auto parts store should be able to read the codes for free.

 

 

 

Thanks for the videos rspi.
It is in fact the PCV system.


(there is smoke coming out of the oil dipstick tube it's just windy)

 

You see that GUNK on the bottom of the oil filler cap, a lot of people mistake that for a blown head gasket. If you see that junk on the oil dip stick, you should take the car for a 30+ mile drive to burn off the condensation in the motor.

At this time, I suggest you drive the car as little as possible and as passively as possible until you get he PCV system replaced. Reduce the chances of blowing some oil seal.

 

Alright thanks.
Having an issue trying to find the matching PCV kit though.
B5324T Engine
Serial is 334101
Can't really tell if it has EGR, and I don't know where to buy the kid from.

Sorry to ask.

 

My video explains about the kit in the comments. Motors with SN 330414 and higher use the later kit, same as the '96 cars.

I usually order my kits from Volvo Parts, Accessories and Performance Specialist Since 1963 (west coast) or Genuine & OEM European Car Parts | BMW Volvo Audi VW Mercedes Saab (east coast).

If your car is EGR you can tell because it will have an EGR valve in front of the intake under the throttle body. You can go to my video channel and search parts or words like "EGR" or "Volvo EGR". I believe all of the US '95 cars have EGR and a few of the real early '96 models.

When looking at the videos, it's a good idea to read the "about" comments.

No problem with questions, just miss them sometimes and it may take a while for an answer if I don't check the forum for a while.

 

Oh, always request OEM Volvo parts when ordering the PCV kits.

 

Almost forgot, Almost due for an oil change. Should I do it before or after I replace the PCV system?

Oh and thanks for helping so far. Really appreciate it.

 

After! you're probably going to loosen up stuff that will end up the oil pan that you want to drain out

 

Make sure the openings that the PCV mounts to are open. If you have to open them up the stuff the drops into the pan is what you want to get drained out after you do the job and drive it a bit. Adding some Seafoam and putting a few miles on it before you start the job might help soften it up a bit if there's something there.

 

Alright I'm back after 3 months. Weather is nice enough.

So I finally got around to changing the PCV system. Hell of a job.

There is some yellow-brownish creamy gunk I found on the oil cap, dipstick, and throughout the PCV system, especially the oil trap box.

Any idea what this is? I'm aware of the solid oil buildup but I didn't see the thing I talked about in the replacement tutorials.

 

Condensation sludge. It accumulates because the car was likely primarily driven on very short trips where the motor oil did not get warmed up to temp, over and over again. It's good to take the car on longer drives at least once per week, 30+ minutes.

I have never seen so much of that stuff through the PCV so it is a severe case. If it were me, I would take the car for a good long highway drive, at least 30 minutes, maybe even in 3rd gear to get the RPM's between 3 and 4K for the duration. You may even want to consider a Seafoam treatment. Follow the instructions and change the oil again after another 100 miles, then again at 1,000 miles. Then back to normal scheduled intervals. For the shorter oil changes you can use cheaper oil, maybe NOT synthetic. After the 1,000 mile change go back to full synthetic.

How To Care For A Car With A Turbo Charged Motor, Brief - Auto Information Series - YouTube

 

Holy crap man. That is one clogged pcv!! That is prolly the worst I have seen. You sir are very lucky no seal has given out on you.

 

The previous owner didn't even know what the PCV system was, and he owned it since the odometer was at 90k. It's 147k now and has been since he sold it to me.

Almost done with replacing the system, took a bit because I also replaced the struts and replaced my tires with 205/55R16 while doing it, unfortunately I lost one manifold screw and it's gonna rain tomorrow so I'll finish up on the weekend. I'll update when I get it up and running, immediately going for a 30 minute drive as said previously just to make sure.