Hose Collapse on Acceleration - See Video
#1
Hose Collapse on Acceleration - See Video
Can anyone tell me what would cause this (see video).
The hoses are older, but not too thin. I am thinking something is clogged (intercooler)??????
I was hoping someone cold shed some light on this for me.
The car has a BAD low RPM stumple and TERRIBLE acceleration.... Takes a lot of finesse and patience to get to 50 mph.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSyNv...=youtube_gdata
Thanks.
RZ
The hoses are older, but not too thin. I am thinking something is clogged (intercooler)??????
I was hoping someone cold shed some light on this for me.
The car has a BAD low RPM stumple and TERRIBLE acceleration.... Takes a lot of finesse and patience to get to 50 mph.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSyNv...=youtube_gdata
Thanks.
RZ
#2
#5
#6
I had the same thing.
New hoses may help, they surely wouldn't hurt and they look good .
Tune up if not done lately is always a good idea but your engine is sucking against a restriction. No amount of tune up is going to get more air through that tubing to the engine.
Plugged intercooler .... best way to tell is pull the hose off the bottom of the intercooler and see if that top hose still collapses. If it doesn't, you know it's not the intercooler. With the hose off, be careful it doesn't ingest anything !!
I think you have a turbo that is hanging up. Mine used to do that only when it was cold out, around 32 and below. Sometimes it would get better once it warmed up and other times it would get worse or stay the same. If I tried to rev it up it would climb to around 2,000 rpm and go no further. If I tried to drive it and it did get a bit better it would barely make it to 55 and if I came to a hill it would lose speed trying to climb it even if it wasn't much of a grade.
Mine had terrible maintenance when I first got it and I'm pretty sure it was badly coked up inside the turbo from lack of timely LOF's and most likely never being idled down before being shut off.
I would recommend using an engine flush and let it idle longer with the stuff in there than what they recommend. You need it to get in there and break down the crud that may be impeding the turbo bearings. Also toss in some "Seafoam" after the oil change as it will put more detergents into the oil to help clean both the engine and turbo up. I have also started to get into the habit of tossing in a quart of quality transmission fluid a week or two before I do an oil change for the same reason. It's higher in detergents and helps keep everything clean. I don't use Seafoam myself but a lot of people do. Once you do the engine flush with a flushing chemical and you're doing the oil and filter I'd just toss in a quart of trans fluid to replace one of the engine oil quarts and yes just drive on it like regular oil until the next scheduled LOF. It's also good for quieting down lifter noise if they are getting a bit varnished up. I had a bad valve train rattle on start up too at first until I started to baby it with some maintenance.
It didn't happen to me once this year but my first year with the turbo I'm glad I had a second vehicle or I would have missed a few days of work. There were a couple times I started off for work I wasn't sure I was going to make it back home as instead of getting better I kept losing power.
You can also pull off the intake tube between the turbo and mass air flow sensor to see if it's spinning or if you can try to spin it with your finger to see if its stiff. Just be careful nothing gets sucked in !!!
New hoses may help, they surely wouldn't hurt and they look good .
Tune up if not done lately is always a good idea but your engine is sucking against a restriction. No amount of tune up is going to get more air through that tubing to the engine.
Plugged intercooler .... best way to tell is pull the hose off the bottom of the intercooler and see if that top hose still collapses. If it doesn't, you know it's not the intercooler. With the hose off, be careful it doesn't ingest anything !!
I think you have a turbo that is hanging up. Mine used to do that only when it was cold out, around 32 and below. Sometimes it would get better once it warmed up and other times it would get worse or stay the same. If I tried to rev it up it would climb to around 2,000 rpm and go no further. If I tried to drive it and it did get a bit better it would barely make it to 55 and if I came to a hill it would lose speed trying to climb it even if it wasn't much of a grade.
Mine had terrible maintenance when I first got it and I'm pretty sure it was badly coked up inside the turbo from lack of timely LOF's and most likely never being idled down before being shut off.
I would recommend using an engine flush and let it idle longer with the stuff in there than what they recommend. You need it to get in there and break down the crud that may be impeding the turbo bearings. Also toss in some "Seafoam" after the oil change as it will put more detergents into the oil to help clean both the engine and turbo up. I have also started to get into the habit of tossing in a quart of quality transmission fluid a week or two before I do an oil change for the same reason. It's higher in detergents and helps keep everything clean. I don't use Seafoam myself but a lot of people do. Once you do the engine flush with a flushing chemical and you're doing the oil and filter I'd just toss in a quart of trans fluid to replace one of the engine oil quarts and yes just drive on it like regular oil until the next scheduled LOF. It's also good for quieting down lifter noise if they are getting a bit varnished up. I had a bad valve train rattle on start up too at first until I started to baby it with some maintenance.
It didn't happen to me once this year but my first year with the turbo I'm glad I had a second vehicle or I would have missed a few days of work. There were a couple times I started off for work I wasn't sure I was going to make it back home as instead of getting better I kept losing power.
You can also pull off the intake tube between the turbo and mass air flow sensor to see if it's spinning or if you can try to spin it with your finger to see if its stiff. Just be careful nothing gets sucked in !!!
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 02-25-2012 at 12:34 AM.
#7
+1 kissafrog - turbo hanging up. I have the exact problem on my '98 V70. The car has too many other issues to fix and will become a parts car for me.
How many of you guys have seen a plugged intercooler? It seems like that would be hard to do unless you took out the air filter and drove over a bag of kittens that were then ingested in the intake.
How many of you guys have seen a plugged intercooler? It seems like that would be hard to do unless you took out the air filter and drove over a bag of kittens that were then ingested in the intake.
#8
I also agree with probable turbo not spinning. I suppose a clogged intercooler is a possibility but if the turbo was operating normally seems like a downline restriction would blow off a hose somewhere; that's a lot of PSI with no where to go.
Is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose hooked up? That broken nipple on the tree is where its vacuum line should go.
Is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose hooked up? That broken nipple on the tree is where its vacuum line should go.
#9
Update
Well, I think the Intercooler and Turbo are working correctly.
I removed the lower hose and could feel strong sucking from lower intercooler opening.
I also pulled the hose off the back side of the MAF and I could hear the turbo spinning to a stop as the engine died.
I am beginning to think I have several problems occurring at once.
I've added Seafoam, to the oil and some gas treatment to the fuel.
Bad Hoses for sure, and they will be replaced.
I bought a new set of plug wires ($99 set of accel from Advance Auto),,, They SUCKED. 2 of the 5 would not "bite" on the spark plug. And I started getting a Bank #1 Rich Code.
SO, I put the old ones back on but left the accel coil wire on. The car ran better, but still very hard to start and low rpm HESITATION when finally running... no power at all on acceleration and barely touching the gas pedal works better than anything over about 5% pedal. Also noticed the longer the car runs the worse it runs.
I am about to replace the Coil and Find some New Wires.
I did return the Accel's to Advance for store credit.
SO FAR REPLACED:
MAF (with know working OEM unit), Air Idle Valve, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump Relay, Distributor Cap & Rotor.
Any other idea?
I removed the lower hose and could feel strong sucking from lower intercooler opening.
I also pulled the hose off the back side of the MAF and I could hear the turbo spinning to a stop as the engine died.
I am beginning to think I have several problems occurring at once.
I've added Seafoam, to the oil and some gas treatment to the fuel.
Bad Hoses for sure, and they will be replaced.
I bought a new set of plug wires ($99 set of accel from Advance Auto),,, They SUCKED. 2 of the 5 would not "bite" on the spark plug. And I started getting a Bank #1 Rich Code.
SO, I put the old ones back on but left the accel coil wire on. The car ran better, but still very hard to start and low rpm HESITATION when finally running... no power at all on acceleration and barely touching the gas pedal works better than anything over about 5% pedal. Also noticed the longer the car runs the worse it runs.
I am about to replace the Coil and Find some New Wires.
I did return the Accel's to Advance for store credit.
SO FAR REPLACED:
MAF (with know working OEM unit), Air Idle Valve, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump Relay, Distributor Cap & Rotor.
Any other idea?
#10
Just saying...I would not dismiss the intercooler claim so quickly.
#11
Understood. I will investigate further.
I did notice a lot of thick sticky stuff (presumably oil residue) lining the tube/hoses going in to the throttle body. I cleaned them (as well as the throttle body) with throttle body cleaner.
How is the upper Intercooler Hose removed?
I can see the clamp, but cant get to it.
I don't see how to remove the plastic part with the fan relay (and others) on it.
???
I did notice a lot of thick sticky stuff (presumably oil residue) lining the tube/hoses going in to the throttle body. I cleaned them (as well as the throttle body) with throttle body cleaner.
How is the upper Intercooler Hose removed?
I can see the clamp, but cant get to it.
I don't see how to remove the plastic part with the fan relay (and others) on it.
???
#12
Use this this site this tune up kit is very good to start.
Volvo Tune Up Kit (Turbo) OEM VOLTUNEUPKIT2 | FCP Euro
Volvo Tune Up Kit (Turbo) OEM VOLTUNEUPKIT2 | FCP Euro
#13
Well, I think the Intercooler and Turbo are working correctly.
I removed the lower hose and could feel strong sucking from lower intercooler opening.
I also pulled the hose off the back side of the MAF and I could hear the turbo spinning to a stop as the engine died.
Any other idea?
I removed the lower hose and could feel strong sucking from lower intercooler opening.
I also pulled the hose off the back side of the MAF and I could hear the turbo spinning to a stop as the engine died.
Any other idea?
When you had the hose off did you try to rev it a bit and watch that upper hose ??
If it didn't collapse with the bottom hose disconnected and then you put the bottom hose back together and it does collapse the only way it could be happening is the engine is running like it didn't have a turbo because the turbo may be spinning but it's not spinning fast enough to push air in. Instead the engine is trying to pull more air in with the pistons than it can get past the turbo and it's sucking so hard that upper hose collapses from VACUUM when there should be PRESSURE form the turbo trying to blow it up !!
Unless you have one seriously plugged up air filter it's about the only logical answer to the hose collapsing.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 02-26-2012 at 12:51 AM.
#14
Hummm.
Yes, I did rev it with the lower hose off, and no the hose did not collapse.
I am hoping the seafoam added to the oil will help clean the turbo, maybe that will get it going. ???
Is it possible the Boost Solenoid could cause the turbo to be week?
I've orders some replacement hoses.
BTW, I really appreciate the help.
How is the upper hose removed?
I see a clamp, but no way to get to it. The plastic piece that holds the Fan Relays and other "things" is in the way and I don't see how that is removed. !?!?!
Yes, I did rev it with the lower hose off, and no the hose did not collapse.
I am hoping the seafoam added to the oil will help clean the turbo, maybe that will get it going. ???
Is it possible the Boost Solenoid could cause the turbo to be week?
I've orders some replacement hoses.
BTW, I really appreciate the help.
How is the upper hose removed?
I see a clamp, but no way to get to it. The plastic piece that holds the Fan Relays and other "things" is in the way and I don't see how that is removed. !?!?!
#16
ok, thanks.
I was doing some reading and found that there is suppose to be a vacuum line attached to the tree (throttle diaphragm?) behind the Idle Control Valve that runs to the Boost Solenoid... ???
If this is correct, I have a problem.
There IS one "limb" on my tree broken off , but no lines attached at all. The other 5 are capped off.
But looking at the boost solenoid, there are 3 lines attached and a wire connector attached.
MAYBE one of these lines is off and tucked under/behind something and I haven't found it.
This could possibly be my turbos problem, unless the vacuum is being pulled from some other place...
What do you think?
I was doing some reading and found that there is suppose to be a vacuum line attached to the tree (throttle diaphragm?) behind the Idle Control Valve that runs to the Boost Solenoid... ???
If this is correct, I have a problem.
There IS one "limb" on my tree broken off , but no lines attached at all. The other 5 are capped off.
But looking at the boost solenoid, there are 3 lines attached and a wire connector attached.
MAYBE one of these lines is off and tucked under/behind something and I haven't found it.
This could possibly be my turbos problem, unless the vacuum is being pulled from some other place...
What do you think?
#17
The red line in the picture goes to the intake manifold. I believe mine is not hooked to the tree but to a threaded nipple like the brake vacuum line does. Blue goes to fresh air (plastic pipe between MAF and Turbo) Like I asked before, is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line hooked up? It should go to the tree.
The fan relay carrier should just pull straight up, it has slide tabs on either end.
The fan relay carrier should just pull straight up, it has slide tabs on either end.
#18
You are correct, the fuel regulator is missing the hoses off the splitter fitting.
Odd, I know... But this is how I bought the car.... No it didn't run well.
I have another thread about these hoses. The vac diagram I found don't show a line from the regulator to the throttle vac tree, it shows one going to the intake front passengers side nipple... My car has THIS line attached thats made of metal but unable to trace it to the fuel regulator.
And shows a 2nd line running over toward the air box on the back side of the motor,,, but it doesn't say what it's attached to, just dead ending at the tube running from the MAF to the Turbo....
BUT there are only 2 nipples on the tube (as far as I car see) .... I and the diagram is showing AT LEAST 3 things running to this tube... Maybe I need some T fittings???
Here's what they say goes to that tube...
1. Turbo boost solenoid
2. Check valve from beside the radiator
3. Fuel pump regulator
4. And one the comes from the passengers side manifold (hidden under upper radiator hose) that goes the what they're calling a T-Pipe.... DONT KNOW WHAT THAT IS... I DON'T SEE ANY "T"...
HELP?!?!?
Odd, I know... But this is how I bought the car.... No it didn't run well.
I have another thread about these hoses. The vac diagram I found don't show a line from the regulator to the throttle vac tree, it shows one going to the intake front passengers side nipple... My car has THIS line attached thats made of metal but unable to trace it to the fuel regulator.
And shows a 2nd line running over toward the air box on the back side of the motor,,, but it doesn't say what it's attached to, just dead ending at the tube running from the MAF to the Turbo....
BUT there are only 2 nipples on the tube (as far as I car see) .... I and the diagram is showing AT LEAST 3 things running to this tube... Maybe I need some T fittings???
Here's what they say goes to that tube...
1. Turbo boost solenoid
2. Check valve from beside the radiator
3. Fuel pump regulator
4. And one the comes from the passengers side manifold (hidden under upper radiator hose) that goes the what they're calling a T-Pipe.... DONT KNOW WHAT THAT IS... I DON'T SEE ANY "T"...
HELP?!?!?
#19
#20