I'm getting a light spark, but when I hook my timing light to the lead wire off the coil leading to the distributer I get one flash and that's it. At first I wasn't getting spark on the left two cylinders, so I swapped the wires out for another 2 used ones in better shape, and now I get spark. So I replace the other 3 wires. Now I'm not getting spark on the left two cylinders again. I'm getting a weak spark from the coil itself and I want to know how to test it.

 

When was the last time the car was tuned up? Plugs, wires, etc?

 

if you know the spark is weak, why bother testing it? Just get the MSD coil from advance auto for $50 or so and make a mount (my mount cost me $.84) for it.

 

Well it hasn't had a good tune up in a while. And as for a msd box, maybe that would help but why is mine weak to begin with? Do the coils weaken and fail? Or just fail? I thought it was a all or nothing type of thing.

 

Agree with others; sounds like ignition coil is failing; they can fail in any number of ways...

If it's been awhile, i would change out the plugs too while you're at it..

 

I plan on getting a new coil tomorrow after work, and some new plugs as well. I this Is all related to my previous post in regards to my car not starting after a tranny swap. Guess it's all bad timing. I can get a used coil from a junk yard for free pretty much.

 

I plan on getting a new coil tomorrow after work, and some new plugs as well. I this Is all related to my previous post in regards to my car not starting after a tranny swap. Guess it's all bad timing. I can get a used coil from a junk yard for free pretty much.

 

the only problem with getting a coil from a salvage yard is that you cant look at it and know what kind of condition it is in. that being said, they arent hard to swap out, so go for it. I'd just save the hassle and get an MSD box.

 

Ok. So I swapped my ignition coil out for two different ones. Used but I'm sure it's unlikely that all 3 of them produce a weak spark. And I grabbed cap, coil and wires all from the same car installed everything with new plugs and still nothing. Just cranks and won't even sputter. Anyone have any ideas? I really need my car back.

 

have you checked the cam shaft sensor?

 

Yes, I checked it. I also had an extra one and tossed it on along with the crank sensor. Still no luck. What powers the coil?

 

Anyone have any other ideas? I switched cap, plugs, wires , and coil and I'm still getting not getting a decent spark. What can cause this?

 

If you don't have enough battery voltage going to the coil then it will produce a weak spark. (Kinda basic but thats all i got.) One wire from the coil should go to the distributor and the other should be battery voltage. You might try using a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. If your battery is charged and you get a good spark using the jumper wire you can then start tracking where the resistance is. I would suspect the ignition switch.
Could someone else verify what i have just stated? I would hate to have given any miss information.

Respectfully,
Tom

 

Scratch that. I think this system has an igniter. I think i'll just stick to reading the posts.

 

Thanks for the input, the battery is good, there is a wire to the distributor, and then a plug from the wiring harness that goes to the coil. That's all I see. Anyone know what a spark amplifier is? Or where it is?

 

The power stage unit is right next to the ignition coil.


From 850 BasicTesting.pdf:

IGNITION CHECKS
BOSCH EZ129K
1) Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap. Put coil wire
next to ground and operate starter motor. If spark is present, check
distributor rotor and cap. If spark is not present, go to next step.
2) Connect voltmeter between ignition coil connector terminal
No. 15 (Red wire) and ground. Turn ignition on. If battery voltage is
not present, check voltage supply to ignition coil. If battery voltage
is present, turn ignition off and go to next step.
3) Connect voltmeter between ignition coil terminal No. 1
(Blue wire) and ground. Operate starter motor. If about .7-1.3 volts
are present, repeat test using new ignition coil. If about .7-1.3
volts are not present, turn ignition off and go to next step.
4) Disconnect engine speed sensor connector located close to
flywheel. Connect an ohmmeter between sensor terminals. If resistance
is about 200-400 ohms, go to next step and check Camshaft Position
Sensor (CMP) signal. If resistance is not about 200-400 ohms, replace
sensor.
NOTE: Engine speed sensor is also known as Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS) or impulse sensor.
5) Remove intake hose. Bend aside rubber sleeve on CMP
connector. Connect voltmeter between connector terminal No. 2 and
ground. See Fig. 4. Operate starter motor. If voltage reading varies
between 0-5 volts, go to step 7). If voltage reading does not vary
between 0-5 volts, go to next step.
Fig. 4: Identifying Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) Terminals
Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America.
6) Connect voltmeter between CMP connector terminal No. 3 and
ground. Turn ignition on. About 10 volts should be present. Turn
ignition off. Connect an ohmmeter between CMP connector terminal No. 1
and ground. Ohmmeter should show about zero ohms. If voltage supply
and ground are okay, repeat test using new CMP. If voltage supply and
ground are not okay, reconnect intake hose and go to step 9).
7) If voltage reading varied between 0-5 volts in step 5),
disconnect power stage connector at ignition coil. Bend back rubber
sleeve on connector. Check ground supply by connecting ohmmeter
between connector terminal No. 1 and ground. See Fig. 5. Ohmmeter
should indicate zero ohms. Check voltage supply by connecting
voltmeter between terminal No. 3 and ground. Turn ignition on. Battery
voltage should be present.
Fig. 5: Identifying Power Stage Connector Terminals
Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America.
8) Check power stage control signal by connecting voltmeter
between terminal No. 4 and ground. Operate starter motor. Voltmeter
should indicate .7-1.3 volts. If ground, voltage and control signal
are okay, repeat test using new power stage. If ground connection and
voltage are faulty, check wiring. If control signal is not present, go
to next step and check ECU input and output signals.
9) Connect Breakout Box (981 3190) and Adapter (981 3195) to
distributor ignition ECU. See Fig. 3. Turn ignition switch to OFF
position. Distributor ignition ECU is located in right side of engine
compartment. Remove ECU cover. Disconnect distributor ignition ECU
connector. Visually inspect all terminal connector sleeves to ensure
no terminals are damaged.
10) To install breakout box, remove distributor ignition ECU.
Press adapter onto distributor ignition ECU and pull lead upward
through slot beside module. Press distributor ignition ECU, with
adapter connected, into connector in bottom of ECU box. Connect
breakout box to adapter 60-pin connector.
11) Ensure ignition is off. To check ECU input and output
signals, connect ohmmeter between breakout box terminal No. 20 and
ground, then between breakout box terminal No. 29 and ground. Ohmmeter
should indicate about zero ohms in both cases.
12) Ensure ignition is off. Connect ohmmeter between breakout
box terminals No. 20 and 2, and between breakout box terminals No. 20
and 15. Ohmmeter should indicate about zero ohms in both cases.
13) Ensure ignition is off. Connect voltmeter between
breakout box terminals No. 20 and 10. Battery voltage should be
present. Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter between breakout box
terminals No. 20 and 30. Battery voltage should be present.
14) Check engine speed sensor signal by connecting voltmeter
between breakout box terminals No. 1 and 2. Operate starter motor.
Voltmeter should indicate 300-400 millivolts. If signal is not
present, check sensor. See Code 1-3-1 diagnosis procedures in the
G - TESTS W/CODES article. If signal is present, go to next step and
check Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) signal.
NOTE: Engine speed sensor is also known as Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS) or impulse sensor.
15) Connect voltmeter between breakout box terminals No. 20
and 4. Operate starter motor. Voltage should vary between 0-5 volts.
If voltage is okay, go to next step. If voltage is not okay, connect
voltmeter between breakout box terminals No. 20 and 14. Voltmeter
should indicate about 10 volts. If voltage is present, but signal is
not present, repeat test using new CMP. If voltage is not present,
repeat test using new ECU.
16) If voltage was okay in step 15), connect voltmeter
between breakout box terminals No. 20 and 43. Operate starter motor.
Voltage should indicate about 5-7 volts. If voltage is not present,
repeat test using ECU. If voltage is present, ignition system is
operating properly.

 

Thank you! I'll test it today after work. Although now it seems the spark is ok and the fuel pump relay is buzzing and even when not trying to start the car it keeps trying to spark