So I have the boost gauge, air/fuel meter, and an oil pressure gauge. The boost controller is going in as well. Everything seems pretty straight forward, except, where have you tapped into power sources and boost gauge line from the interior? The boost controller should be a breeze, but again, being somewhat new to the Volvo's, I want to know what to look for around the firewall or under the column as to where to hook the boost gauge and the other gauges for power and for vacuum. Any help would be appreciated, and photos are always good. I am going to do a build thread for the installs. Thanks.

 

not sure about your car, but just hit up the fuse box if it is under the dash and tap one for power. If not, you can always try to remove the stereo and tap into that lead, if the current draw isnt going to be too much. last resort, run your own power wire from the engine bay fusebox/battery. still relatively easy

 

SInce the fuse box is in the engine bay, I would try to tap into the 12 volt power from the cigarette lighter. If not, you are going to have to run a power wire to the fuse box, so look for a grommet thru the firewall. I believe there is one directly under the steering column

 

How many line do you think I can tap into a 12v power source without screwing things up? I would be tapping the lights for all three gauges. Also, simple to tap the air/fuel into the front o2 sensor yes?

 

For the lights just tap into the headlight switch for the dash lights.

I forget exactly where I tapped for the 12V for my Air/Fuel gauge.

For the boost guage if you have a stock one just tap into the hose for the stock one and put a t in there.

 

Right on tech, I will dive under the dash tomorrow to find that boost line. In terms of the headlights, I will need a schematic to find those lines I would assume.

 

If you want it to just come on with the headlights terminal #8 White and black wire. If you want it to work with the dimmer terminal #4 on the dimmer a pink wire.

Also try to probe the wires for the O2 sensor I took my time installing mine but also had the means to get extra plugs and made a pigtail to go inline with the O2 sensor. This made the installation very easy.
I believe the green and black wire should be the one for the Air/fuel gauge input.

 

Any luck on getting it all done?

 

Ok, so I decided to install the boost gauge first to see what kind of boost I was running factory. Pics to come soon by the way, using IPD's triple gauge pod, I installed the gauge and the nylon line to the line from the turbo. Ended up I had a ripped wastegate line as well which I fixed. I went for a quick drive and low and behold, the boost gauge reads almost 11.5psi. Is that really true? I do not believe the gauge. I thought these things ran 7.8-8 psi stock. Anybody know for sure? If this is the case, whatcan I tune the MBC to, once installed? I do not want to install the MBC until I know for sure where I can go with the boost. The air fuel meter has not arrived yet, and I will install that probably next Sunday. the oil pressure gauge as well. Any info would be helpful. Don't forget I live at almost 6000 feet above see level. Do not know if that has anything to with it.

 

Mine was supposed to boost to atleast 10 PSI being a R but was only at 7 PSI.
You might have anotherbad vaccum line on the system making the turbo run full boost all the time.
There is 3 lines total on the turbo. Make sure all 3 are good.

Was the wiring for the lighting correct?

 

I wouldn't think that a bad turbo line would cause it to boost that high. I mean, there are times where the carfeels very very fast. And there are times in a similar situation where the car seems to be a bit slower to the comparable time. I do not know what to think. I have not hooked up the gauge electrically yet. Having the air/fuel meter will be a necessity I think. Which wire underneath the column is the headlight wire?

 

The pins and colors I posted earlier in the post are at the headlight switch and dimmer switch.

I would check all the hoses first. They might be leaking when cold and not hot or vise versa.

Usually when a hose is bad thats what happens about 12 PSI of boost.

Also check the hoses on the electronic boost controller(factory unit) on the side of the air box.

 

will do that tomorrow then. Thanks, I appreciate it. I did fix the ripped hose coming from the wastegate. They are all pretty cracked etc. Should I just replace all of them?

 

I would the bypass and the one going into the side of the intake housing on the turbo are a pain to replace though. But I would do that and see from there.

 

Which bolts do I need to take off to get to the turbo? I was looking at the heat shield yesterday and it looks like a pain to pull off for such a small item. Any picstures showing the lines?

 

Here is a couple pics, quality is from the phone. Will get better pics soon, as you can see, sitting between 10-11 psi.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...HEV/boost2.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...HEV/boost1.jpg

 

There should be 3 or 4 screws to remove the heatsheild.
I believe 2 with springs and 2 without. The 2 without should be through the bracket into the engine and manifold.

 

What size line is the boost line and the rest of the turbo lines?

 

Same size as the one you already replaced.

 

So I got the turbo lines replaced. Not that difficult. Went for a test drive and sure enough tech, the boost was back down to factory spec. So I modified the boost controller, and now am making 13.5 psi of boost. What a rocket. The air/fuel meter needs a couple tweaks and it is done, for now. My wiring sucks, which I am horrible with to begin with. I can do most things but wiring. I will post pics soon of the install. I still feel like a dumbass, but where did you tap into the light wire? I know you said the switch, but did you pull out the switch? I was looking at a diagram yesterday and could not seem to match them up. Oh well. Thanks