ipd HD compression bypass valve
guys l need your input, l just got my ipd cbv and l want to ask if anyone has one on their 850. does anyone know why IPD recommends the blue spring with an 850 running stock ibs? also what will happen when one runs the red spring in an 850 running a stock ibs. l also learnt that others use the stock spring with the ipd valve because its stronger than the ipds blue spring.has anyone tried running the stock spring on the ipd valve.how was it boosting? thanks in advance and any input will be appreciated.
I don't know but I do trust iPD. They use to race Volvo's and I usually follow their lead. See if the parts page has instructions and a video. I've seen video's on iPd's site for stuff like that.
Last edited by rspi; Nov 25, 2012 at 09:28 AM. Reason: correction
thanks brother for your input. l will try out with the blue spring first and see how it runs and try out the stock spring together with ipds valve and see how it performs and l will post it up. thank you
ok brother l changed my bcv and my tcv today. l still get low boost and when l mix match the vacuum hoses on the tcv l still dont get full boost but get fuel cut off when l floor it.anyone on here with turbo knowledge to help me out here? could it be my wastegate at fault? any input will be appreciated.
Last edited by slimflex2; Nov 27, 2012 at 02:55 PM.
ouch.lol. never thought about that. the vacuum hoses are stock and still in good condition.they dont look brittled or broken. do you think this could be a vacuum leak?
More likely clogged internally. They may look good but blowing through them would be the real test. That or squeezing them to make sure they feel soft and they bounce back into shape when you let go.
I've seen a lot of posts where owners were surprised at how carboned up the inside of the vacuum lines had become.
I'm guessing it's like a radiator hose that looks fine till you squeeze it and suddenly you notice it feels like jelly as the interior of the hose is breaking down.
(Jelly for a cooling hose but the vac lines get a little "crunchy")
But the vacuum leak is a possibility. Make sure the elbows haven't come loose or cracked.
Is it the same problem that you had before you replaced the BCV & TCV. Did you check that the line for the "vent" on the TCV is the vent line leading to the air cleaner housing. The other two you can interchange and apparently did. The vent line being in the wrong place would surely make a difference.
If I go to basic I'm sorry, just slap me and move on as I'm just "spit ballin'" here
I've seen a lot of posts where owners were surprised at how carboned up the inside of the vacuum lines had become.
I'm guessing it's like a radiator hose that looks fine till you squeeze it and suddenly you notice it feels like jelly as the interior of the hose is breaking down.
(Jelly for a cooling hose but the vac lines get a little "crunchy")
But the vacuum leak is a possibility. Make sure the elbows haven't come loose or cracked.
Is it the same problem that you had before you replaced the BCV & TCV. Did you check that the line for the "vent" on the TCV is the vent line leading to the air cleaner housing. The other two you can interchange and apparently did. The vent line being in the wrong place would surely make a difference.
If I go to basic I'm sorry, just slap me and move on as I'm just "spit ballin'" here
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; Nov 28, 2012 at 01:53 PM.
If you use the factory spring with the IPD CBV you have done nothing but replace your CBV with a factory CBV. The springs are what make the difference with this product. The diaphragm is not much different than an OEM, they break too.
The purpose of the diaphragm is to release the boost in the charge pipe. When you are under boost there is boost present on both sides of the diaphragm. What keeps the boost from bleeding off or releasing is that spring. Once you shut the throttle down the pressure on the back side of the diaphragm is lessened. When this happens the pressure on the turbo side pushes the diaphragm open releasing the pressure in the charge pipe. Reasons for a leak are an uneven surface where the diaphragm meets the turbo, leak around the diaphragm outer seal and leaking vacuum/boost line to the CBV causing it to not have boost pressure on the back of the diaphragm.
I blew a hole in mine
The purpose of the diaphragm is to release the boost in the charge pipe. When you are under boost there is boost present on both sides of the diaphragm. What keeps the boost from bleeding off or releasing is that spring. Once you shut the throttle down the pressure on the back side of the diaphragm is lessened. When this happens the pressure on the turbo side pushes the diaphragm open releasing the pressure in the charge pipe. Reasons for a leak are an uneven surface where the diaphragm meets the turbo, leak around the diaphragm outer seal and leaking vacuum/boost line to the CBV causing it to not have boost pressure on the back of the diaphragm.
I blew a hole in mine
Last edited by boxpin; Nov 28, 2012 at 09:29 AM.
what do you mean when you say you "mix & match" vac hoses on the tcv? There is a specific routing for them, which Kiss4afrog noted. If they are routed wrong, it will cause an overboost/fuel cut @ WOT. I speak from experience, because when I bought my 850, the hoses were routed wrong, and I was getting conditions like yours. This does not discount anything that others have posted, vac. lines are cheap enough - just put new ones on everything.
When in doubt, new ones as they are just too cheap not to. Most auto parts stores I think it's around fifty cents a foot.
If you can find it or wait to order it silicone would be the best as it will not deteriorate on the inside like rubber will from the heat.
No guarantee on this but I pulled it off a site for my reference when I replace mine:
If you can find it or wait to order it silicone would be the best as it will not deteriorate on the inside like rubber will from the heat.
No guarantee on this but I pulled it off a site for my reference when I replace mine:
- brake booster vacuum line: 3/8" ID x 12.25 " length
- fuel pressure regulator to throttle body: 5MM (3/16") ID x 11" length
- flame trap nipple to throttle body: 5MM (3/16") ID x 9.25" length
- flame trap to intake hose: 16MM (5/8") x 11.5" length
- intake hose to sensor? 3/4" ID x 18.25" length
- sensor? to intake manifold: 3/4" ID x 11" length
- intake manifold to vacuum tank in front bumper: 3/8" ID x 7 feet length (this hose tees to hvac control system, and has the hvac check valve in it).
- throttle body to evap canister, small: 3.5MM (1/8") ID x 40.25" length (on my car, at least, this was a 1/8" OD hard line with replaceable rubber ends - I reused the line and bought new ends: 1/8 ID x 1/8 ID 90 deg elbow to throttle body and 1/8 ID to 3/16 ID straight to canister)
- throttle body to evap canister large: 7/32" ID x 41.5" length. The 7/32" works but was a tad tight at the throttle body, 5/16" was too loose. Next time I'll try harder to find 1/4" ID.
When in doubt, new ones as they are just too cheap not to. Most auto parts stores I think it's around fifty cents a foot.
If you can find it or wait to order it silicone would be the best as it will not deteriorate on the inside like rubber will from the heat.
No guarantee on this but I pulled it off a site for my reference when I replace mine:
If you can find it or wait to order it silicone would be the best as it will not deteriorate on the inside like rubber will from the heat.
No guarantee on this but I pulled it off a site for my reference when I replace mine:
- brake booster vacuum line: 3/8" ID x 12.25 " length
- fuel pressure regulator to throttle body: 5MM (3/16") ID x 11" length
- flame trap nipple to throttle body: 5MM (3/16") ID x 9.25" length
- flame trap to intake hose: 16MM (5/8") x 11.5" length
- intake hose to sensor? 3/4" ID x 18.25" length
- sensor? to intake manifold: 3/4" ID x 11" length
- intake manifold to vacuum tank in front bumper: 3/8" ID x 7 feet length (this hose tees to hvac control system, and has the hvac check valve in it).
- throttle body to evap canister, small: 3.5MM (1/8") ID x 40.25" length (on my car, at least, this was a 1/8" OD hard line with replaceable rubber ends - I reused the line and bought new ends: 1/8 ID x 1/8 ID 90 deg elbow to throttle body and 1/8 ID to 3/16 ID straight to canister)
- throttle body to evap canister large: 7/32" ID x 41.5" length. The 7/32" works but was a tad tight at the throttle body, 5/16" was too loose. Next time I'll try harder to find 1/4" ID.
If you use the factory spring with the IPD CBV you have done nothing but replace your CBV with a factory CBV. The springs are what make the difference with this product. The diaphragm is not much different than an OEM, they break too.
The purpose of the diaphragm is to release the boost in the charge pipe. When you are under boost there is boost present on both sides of the diaphragm. What keeps the boost from bleeding off or releasing is that spring. Once you shut the throttle down the pressure on the back side of the diaphragm is lessened. When this happens the pressure on the turbo side pushes the diaphragm open releasing the pressure in the charge pipe. Reasons for a leak are an uneven surface where the diaphragm meets the turbo, leak around the diaphragm outer seal and leaking vacuum/boost line to the CBV causing it to not have boost pressure on the back of the diaphragm.
I blew a hole in mine

The purpose of the diaphragm is to release the boost in the charge pipe. When you are under boost there is boost present on both sides of the diaphragm. What keeps the boost from bleeding off or releasing is that spring. Once you shut the throttle down the pressure on the back side of the diaphragm is lessened. When this happens the pressure on the turbo side pushes the diaphragm open releasing the pressure in the charge pipe. Reasons for a leak are an uneven surface where the diaphragm meets the turbo, leak around the diaphragm outer seal and leaking vacuum/boost line to the CBV causing it to not have boost pressure on the back of the diaphragm.
I blew a hole in mine

I saw a turbo once that had an indent in the compressor housing where the CBV was supposed to seal so when it tried to seal it didnt. This can be seen when the CBV is pulled off. I really dont think you need to pull the turbo for this.
I'm sure there is a Goodyear, Gates, Samco ... part number for each size but if you're going to an auto parts store you just need to tell them the hose ID either metric or SAE and how long a piece you want. Not all parts stores carry hose in metric so it's best to have your desired size in both dimensions.
Same if you go to ebay or amazon. Everybody has a different part number for their sizes compared to the next manufacturer but all you're concerned with is the ID and length.
One note: If you go for silicone vacuum line I would look for a brand name as I have seen a post here and there where people had poor quality and the hose would collapse under normal vacuum conditions.
Same if you go to ebay or amazon. Everybody has a different part number for their sizes compared to the next manufacturer but all you're concerned with is the ID and length.
One note: If you go for silicone vacuum line I would look for a brand name as I have seen a post here and there where people had poor quality and the hose would collapse under normal vacuum conditions.
thanks brother.l changed my cbv to ipds together with their HD tcv and still getting low boost.l will look forward to changing the vacuum hoses and see if it improves. l emailed ipd and they told me a vacuum leak should be my next look out.so l will do that.
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