Been a while since i've last posted...but i FINALLY got the car started tonight. Started up the first time...i was amazed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYNpF4MbrgQ

So all is not well as you could tell the video. Got a pretty good trans fluild leak, which i think is just a seal.

What worries me more is the grinding noise it makes going into Park. Shifting through all the other gears worked fine w/ no noise, but there was a definite grind going back into park....

 

I will bet the grinding was because you didn't have the axles stopped before putting it in park. If you run it like that again use a lug to hold the rotor to the hub. Then you will be able to use the brakes to stop the axles before putting it in park.

For the leak it was kind of hard to say because it was hard to tell where it was coming from.

 

Glad you are making progress

 

Yea, the axles were spinning when i put it in park...didn't think of that at first, but i didn't bleed my brakes yet, so the calipers prolly had no stopping power.

The trans fluid leak is coming from the trans cooler hose where it plugs into the trans. I may have screwed up the Oring when putting it on. Picked up a new seal today...and brillantly decided to leave it on the top of my car as i drove away from the dealership....DOH! Need to get another for tomorrow.

The other thing that worries me is the ticking...which i assume is from the lifters. Maybe b/c oil hasn't really made it's way into the head yet? I did fill the oil right before starting it, but really only let it run for a minute due to the trans fluid leak..

 

Sounds like you are getting it all together.
I wouldn't worry about the tapping now. It might not go away till you drive it. Usually it take a little while and sometimes not till it is driven and everything gets moving fast.

What all did you do to it while you had it apart?

 

What did i do while i had it apart...all kinds of stuff

rebuilt the turbo...changed exhaust housing to angled 3"
3" downpipe to 2.5" magnaflow exhaust
3 angle valve job w/ porting/polishing
had engine bored out...new OS2 pistons and rings
swapped automatic tranny w/ another
new seals/gaskets/bushings
IPD ECU

plus a bunch of other stuff i'm probably forgetting

...It's been a long journey...taken me 11 months so far...so yea, it's dragged on for a while...

 

Cool make sure youlet us know how much better it runs!!!
Did you ever get the S60R exhaust manifold?
Did you find the parts for the bored out block pretty cheap?
Did you bore the block or resleeve it?

 

I had the same thing with mine when I had no oil in the engine after doing work on ot over a few weeks, at first at restart the lifter tick sound was horrible, but once it ran for a while and the oil was well circulated it went away.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iP4HPMbwU04

Mike

 

That is one BadAZZT5-R. I love the yellow T5-R's.Did you dyno it yet?

 

Congrats on the work done.

Man, I wish I had a garage.

 

Yep...put the s60R exhaust manifold...also took out the EGR pipe and replaced intake w/ one form a '97 w/o the egr port.


So i fixed the trans seal...just an o ring like i suspected. Bled the braked and it doesn't grind going into park now. I'm getting CLOSE to taking it out on the road.

I let it run for about 15 mintues in the garage last night...the ticking is still there, but may be slightly quieter. What worried me now is my fan doesn't seem to be coming on. I'm pretty sure everything is connected...the fuses are good. I let it idle and the temp guage rises until just slightly above the 1/2 way point. But the fan doesn't seem to kick on. Trying to figure out if it's just not hot enough for it to kick on or if something else is wrong.

Shouldn't it turn on if i run the defroster or AC automatically?


Oh yea..the other thing... There is some valve that's mounted above the fan area...on the driver side...next to the fan relay. What is that for??? It has an electrical connector and 2 vacuum lines coming off of it. One of them went to the Vacuum tree, and the other went to the EGR valve...which i don't have anymore. Should i just plug the line, or should it be plugged into the intake manifold too? OR should i just get rid of the thinggy alltogether?

 

Yes the fan will come on with the A/C.

For the valve did you also install a newer ECU?
If not just plug the valve or it will throw a code.
If you have a 96 or 97 ECU remove the chuck.

Wait till after you drive it for the ticking.

 

Any idea what that valve does exactly?

I do have an ecu from a 97R that i was using at first. What do you mean remove the chuck??
Tried it both with that one and my original ecu and haven't thrown a code yet while it was just idling.

 

Haven't dyno'ed it yet...definitely wanna let the engine get broken in before I put the IPD ecu in. But i do plan on dynoing it once i know she's solid mechanically.

 

That valve is what makes the EGR system work. The computer activates the valve which will open the ERV valve.With the 97R computer it deletes the EGR system.
By chuck I meant take out and chuck it into the garbage!!!
Or save if you want to reinstall later. If you are ever going to go back to OEM setup.

 

LOL...ok gotcha...don't think i'll be chucking it in the garbage...will prolly keep everyhitng to be alble to return it to factory if needed...

 

LOL I was refering to the valve.
Since you have the 97 computer the valve is dead weight. The 97 computer eliminates the EGR system. So it will not set an EGR code.

I didn't mean get rid of the computer.

 

Hello Ludeless,

I remember when I saw my first Yellow, it had tint black as space, and I couldnt get thecar out of my head for the longest time. Kinda stood there, jaw slack, as the driver peeled away from a Mustang (JUNK) on Carling Ave. in Ottawa and the look on Guidos face was priceless. Have you ever seen deflated Machismo?[sm=laughat.gif]

Ive been following along and I cant help but appreciate my car as I look at yours. Yours has the look that Ill have to pay for, particularly when it comes to the wheels. Man, I love those. Gimme, Gimme, Gimme!

The ticking that your hearing is the lifters. Their hydraulic and as long as lubrication isnt a problem then, as mentioned before, run the car and the noiseshould go away in less than 10 minutes. I say should because if it doesnt then you may have another issue with oil pressure. I stopped by St. Laurent Volvo in Ottawa last week and asked the lead tech and this was the answer that I got. I also stopped by Carling Volvo and asked the same question and got the very same answer and Murpy Auto (Dave has 13 years at St. Laurent Volvo before opening his own shop) also concurred.

Yours looks excellent and Im jealous (LOL)

KeepThe Yellow Submarine(yellow dont seem to work so good)sweet, and away from open water. Submarine in name only, right? LOL

Oh, you may notice that the apostrophe will repeat/multiply every time a responce is made. Im not sure why but Ive stopped using them here as a couple of mypost titles have gone clear through to the next page(again LOL)

Waiting for your dyno numbers and I hope that they are much better than you expect.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

So i figured out the fan...at least partially, but something doesn't seem right

I had the power wire hooked up to the wrong post on the starter. on the ground side instead of the positive side....so the fan was never getting power through the fan relay. I moved the wire over to the positve side. Now it starts and the fan does turn on when the AC is turned on. But whenever the AC is off, the fan doesn't move.

I even let it idle for a while to get the temperature up, and it never kicked on due to temerature rising....

 

Sometimes it takes alot of driving for the cooling fan to come on from the ECT.

I know mine takes a really long time for the fan to kick on just from idling.