Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Keyless Remote Entry and Security System

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Old 06-28-2009, 07:16 PM
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Default Keyless Remote Entry and Security System

So the forums have a lot of information for diagnosing problems with the remote entry/alarm system, but I have a pretty basic question. My 1995 850 GLT was sold to me with a wireless fob, and the original window sticker was given over as part of the documentation with the car.

It says there is a "Keyless remote entry and security system". I'm wondering what the security system is, exactly. Is it just an alarm, an alarm and immobilizer, or what else? (trying to get it right for the insurance, in case you can't tell lol)
 
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:17 PM
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I should also note that there is a red flashing light when the car is locked up, located in the center of the dashboard.
 
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:05 PM
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There is a horn alarm and the car will not start.
 
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:56 PM
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alarm and immobilizer. if the alarm goes off, you can not start the car.
 
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:42 AM
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Thanks guys!

Wow, this car has a ton of features, at least from where I'm coming from. I'm only 21 and this is my 3rd car, the other two being a 1989 Ford F150 with 280+K and a 1992 Mazda Protege (rustbucket, finally got too rusty to pass PA inspection).

The Ford was good and reliable, but just ate up too much gas. The Mazda was on its last legs anyhow. This Volvo isn't running correctly quite yet, but I'm getting ever closer to getting it going right. PCV system is on the way from FCP and gonna fix the odometer too. But the more I poke around in this car the more I like the design, layout, and thought that went into it.
 
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:47 PM
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i was the same with my first one to. lost of features for the year they were built...
 
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Old 06-30-2009, 05:33 PM
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People in the office use to joke with me bacause I drive older Volvo's. Then I usually challenge them to a feature duel. That usually shuts them up. Especially when they find out that my car has heated seats and mirrors, head light wipers, electronic climate control, kick but stereo, abs, moon roof, and NO CAR PAYMENTS! The last one is the best.
 
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Old 06-30-2009, 05:34 PM
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JJMilburn, what part of Pittsburg are you from??? I grew up in North Braddock. Glad I'm FROM there. LOL
 
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:06 AM
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rspi - agreed about the last feature, thats a great advantage. I'm up north of the city, up near Wexford/Cranberry (up 79 a ways from downtown)
 
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:33 AM
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Default What part of Pittsburgh

Originally Posted by jjmilburn
I'm up north of the city, up near Wexford/Cranberry (up 79 a ways from downtown)
I think we use to go through there on our way to our cabin in Slippery Rock.
 
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:53 AM
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Default Programming remote?

When I got the car it came with a key and a remote; the remote didn't work but I figured it was just the battery. I replaced the battery, and it still doesnt work.

Today, I tried turning the ignition on and off 5 times from off within 10 seconds, exact procedure below:
1) key in "off"
2) key in II
3) Key in "off"
4) Key in II
5) Key in "off"
6) Key in II
7) Key in "off"
8) Key in II
9) Key in "off"
10) Key in II, leave key in position

Now, I read I was supposed to see the alarm light on the dash blink or something, but it just remains off. I tried a few times but nothing happens. Nothing happens when I press any remote buttons after step 10 either, it just remains off.

The only time my alarm light seems to be on is if I exit the vehicle and lock the doors from outside using the physical key. When I do this, all of the doors lock simultaneously (so central locking must be working) and the alarm LED starts to blink.

If I try to enter the car when it is in this state by opening the door through the window, the alarm goes off (horn + lights). I can only turn it off by locking and unlocking the door from the outside with the key. So I know the alarm itself works as well.


Any tips? the key fob I have ends in "6".
 
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:03 PM
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I had the same exact problem that I worked on for about 2 weeks. What I ended up doing is getting another control box. The car that I pulled the control box out of had a key fob in the car with the key so I took that as well. When I installed the new control box it still did not work right. So I took all the remotes I had to the dealer for them to test for FREE. When they tested them they said I needed a new battery in the remote that I got with the new control box. When I installed the new battery the thing worked in the car.

So, I tried to program the other remote to the new control box but it would not work. Still no blinking in the dash indicator. So, I believe the system works but the part of the RELAY that allows the programming is bad. I believe I need a new relay to get the programming part to work.

The 1st thing I would do is have the remote tested at the dealer. If the remote is good, either you have a bad relay or receiver. I can send you the one I have but I'm not 100% sure mine is not bad. I just think it's good and the relay is bad. The relay's cost like $110 at the stealership. You may find one at the junk yard. Hope you get it worked out.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/showpo...1&postcount=23
 

Last edited by rspi; 07-08-2009 at 01:06 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:21 PM
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the P.O. sent me another keyfob in the mail, I got it today, it also does not work. So I'm a bit confused, would both fobs that were with this car not work? Very odd. Thanks for the tip on the relay though, I can check the junkyard for that. Is the testing the remotes free at all dealerships?
 
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:10 AM
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Default keyless entry

If the remotes are good but the keyless system still doesn't work, what is the solution? I am hearing something about the control box? Is that the part name? How much? ThX
 
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Old 08-04-2009, 07:12 AM
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The big question here is... Did the remotes come with the car, initially? Here is the thing, at some point the remotes have to be programmed with the receiver (control box). If they were programmed with the receiver (control box) at one time, they should work, unless the receiver has gone bad. If they are NOT the remotes that were once programmed with the receiver, they will have to be programmed to function.

So, the question is... Do you have the remotes that were working with the receiver? If not, they need to be programmed. Try to use the programming techniques to program the remotes for your car. If the programming technique does not work, then you likely have one of two problems... Bad relay or bad receiver.
 
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