So suspension issues aside...I noticed something new and exciting about my car this weekend. It's leaking a lot of coolant from somewhere at the RH side of the radiator. It looks like it's coming from one of the hoses but hard to tell if its the big rubber one, or the one w/ the metal connector. I could also notice that the coolant had sprayed over the intake manifold and into the timing belt area.



Here's a pic from underneath after driving for about 10-15 minutes...



I've noticed a coolant smell a few times before when i would drive it after replacing the vacuum lines. The only other change is when i added trans fluid after replacing the RH axle. I've been keeping an eye on the temperature, and it's been normal...but it is most definitely leaking. i filled it up to max and it was at min in about 2 days prolly 2-3 10 minute drives each day. after that when i stomp on the gas, the coolant level light comes on temporarily....kinda nice to be able to check low coolant just by flooring it though

Is this something just as simple as replacing a hose (which look to be fine w/ no cracks), or is it a sign of a bigger problem?
Also, what's that smaller hose go to? Transmission cooler?

as always...thanks for the help!

 

Looks like the Radiator is leaking. The Metal lines are the trans cooler lines(Trans fluid)
Try to carefully tighten the clamp Caution The radiator neck might break.
The plastic radiators are known for it.

 

I would purchase a new upper radiator hose -- either Goodyear Gaterback or NAPA/Gates. Then, I would use a razor blade to cut off the old hose. Then, I would use wet-dry (black) sandpaper to clean up corrosion and junk around upper radiator hose port. Then, I would inspect for cracks. If no cracks, then I would apply a very thin layer of Permatex Blue RTV on radiator port and install new upper radiator hose.

A new stainless steel clamp wouldn't hurt either.

 

Pretty sure it's not coming from the upper hose... i put my hand on the underside all around the connection, and the hose was dry where the rest of the stuff wasn't. Seems to be coming from the rad, and a lot of other ppl say that's where the common faiure is... So guess it's time to try my hand at changing a radiator. I figure i'll put new hoses & clamps on and probably new seals for the Trans cooler lines.

Anything else i should inspect or consider changing when doing this job? Any tips on how to get it out?

Have any of you heard of using an egg to seal a radiator? I mentioned my problem to someone and he said put an egg in it... I blew it off as him joking, but when i asked someone else and they said the egg thing also... Supposedly as it cooks it can seal up small leaks in the radator temporarily... Made sense to me at the time. Thankfully, no more snow and I can use the other car for transportation. Just curious if anyone has ever actually tried the egg thing...

 

It is only the egg whites. But I don't advise it.

The radiator has to come out from the bottom.

When you are ready let me know I will post detailed instructions.

 

When I first get a leak in my radiator, I put in some sort of stop leak. I ran a Suburban once for over two years w/o a leak after putting that stuff in. You can get it at NAPA. I figure it's worth a try for a couple bucks. I put it in one of my Volvo's too, but I don't remember which one and it must have worked because I don't remember changing a radiator.

 

That might be worth a try....probably much more predictable than trying to fry egg whites in the radiator.

Are there any adverse affects this sealant could have on the cooling system?

 

It might gum something up since it sounds like it's designed to plug holes, but chances are it won't gum up anything outside the radiator.

 

I just know I've done it and it worked for me three times within the last eight years. Twice on the Suburban and once on a Volvo. I may have done it to a Honda also. I can't see it plugging up any hole intended for the coolant to run through. Hey man it you were willing to try an egg...well enough said.

 

Be careful it doesn't plug the Heater core it has been known to do it before.

 

A can of Bars Leak will do the trick. If you open the heater to hot hot HOT prior to adding the stop leak you shouldn't have a heater core issue.
R.

 

LOL... That's a damn good point...i do like the idea of using something a bit more formulated than an egg... and I don't think I'd like smelling eggs cooking everywhere I go

 

So i should let the coolant get heated up enough and just blast the heater full bore before pouring the stuff in? How long does it take to seal...is it a mater of minutes, or weeks that i'd have to drive w/ the heater on all the time?

 

I would use JB Weld (two-part epoxy) on the outside of the radiator, before I would use any stop leak on the inside. But then again, I would just go ahead a install a new radiator -- and do a cooling system leakdown test, just to insure that everything is working fine.

 

Oh Mr. Michigan................don't add anything to hot coolant!!! When the engine is cold, simply add a can of Bars Leak (Meijers Thrifty Acres or NAPA). Then start the engine and turn the heater on to full bore and drive the auto untill up to operating temp. I know the temperature is in the 70's now in Detroit but for the next couple of days, keep the heater on full bore to make sure the Bars Leak is circulating. I actually used Bars Leak on the heater core of a Corvette and it worked!! It always works on the rad but.............eventually you will have to replace the rad. I wouldn't do it 'though 'till you need to.
R.

 

The problem is the next time the radiater starts to leak you will need to replace it. On my Suburban it held for more than two years. Then one day as we were leaving for Outer Banks, NC guess what? Luckily I was still at home when it started leaking. Could not find anybody to fix it, so I went to NAPA bought a radiator, put it in and was on our way that afternoon. I guess I'm saying I would trust the radiator stop leak for a short term fix, but I wouldn't put a can in right before a 1,000 mile trip or something.

 

The thing is I had planned on taking the car to Bonnaroo mid-June in TN, which is ~700 miles one way. There most definitely will be hours of sitting in traffic on the way in/out so the coolant will get pretty hot. Maybe i should just plan on replacing the rad and hoses just to be safe. Last thing i wanna do is to start leaking again w/o a lot of water around...

I can get a new rad from the dealer w/ my work discount for ~300, but saw that FCP groton sells one for ~200...it's a Nissens. Any idea if the one from volvo is a Nissens? Is it worth and extra $100 for the volvo one?

Thanks!

 

That's your call. I would probably put the stop leak stuff in, order the radiator and make it a point to put it in before making the trip, or just put it in and you have time to see if it works before making the trip. I would not want to put it in and then just leave on a long trip, but if it holds until June w/o leaking, I'd probably trust it. Then again I can see you cussing JimKW out about 350 miles from home when the radiator starts leaking.

 

I decided to go ahead and put a new radiator in. I worked on it a bit today and have some ?'s...

I was able to get the rad/intercooler out from the bottom. It was pretty easy once i figured out how to open the clamps for the oil and trans fulid cooler. I got new O rings and seals for the Trans fluid lines, but wasn't expecting to have to take the oil lines off so didn't get new seals for those. Is it necessary to pur new seals on each time you take these lines off?

When I put the oil and trans fluid cooler lines back on, what's the secret to putting the clamps back on? I don't mind getting new clamps if needed. At least one of the old ones is bent up pretty good...it was first one i took off...wasn't pretty How do I go about crimping them back on? Any special tools needed?

I was also going to change out the Thermostat. The torx bolt that is closest to the fuel rail is pretty hard to get at. Do you need to remove the rail to get to this or would one of those L shapped torx drivers work?

Thanks for the help!

 

For the Clamps I use a pair of snapring pliers that work as follows when you squeeze them the end opens.
Slide the hose back off with the one that has the bent up clip. Try to close it some and reinstall it.
If you really want to feel safe after installing both of them put a wire tie(Zip tie) around the clips.
No you don't need to buy the seals for the oil lines.

For the Torxes screw I use a wobble extension and gets in there pretty good.