Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet

  #21  
Old 05-03-2006, 01:06 AM
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Default RE: Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet

Got it all put together finally... missing a couple screws that hold the condenser to the intercooler/rad, but i can pick those up tomorrow.

So I read that the coolant capacity was 7.2L for a turbo, and a full re-fill is needed when replacing the radiator. So I emptied a 3.75L bottle of pure antifreeze (not diluted) into the coolant resevoir. I was thinking to add the other 50% water after, but the coolant level didn't seem to drop... It'a at about the MIN mark now with pure antifreeze and i can only add a little water (maybe 1/2 L).

I started it up and let it run and get up to temperature. After about 15 minutes, the coolant level still didn't drop....so no space to add water.

Did i do something wrong here? Why am i only able to fill 1/2 of the capacity...do i need to drain from somewhere else to completely empty the system before re-filling?

 
  #22  
Old 05-03-2006, 11:20 AM
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Default RE: Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet

There's a drain plug on the back of the block towards the passenger side. Did you open that one too? I know because when we did the head I didn't tighten that one all the way and it was leaking.
 
  #23  
Old 05-03-2006, 02:03 PM
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ORIGINAL: JimKW

There's a drain plug on the back of the block towards the passenger side. Did you open that one too? I know because when we did the head I didn't tighten that one all the way and it was leaking.
Nope...i didn't realize there was another drain until now... Guess i'll drain the entire system again and fill up w/ a fresh batch of antifreeze/water
 
  #24  
Old 05-03-2006, 02:31 PM
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Default RE: Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet

I think you are better off mixing it 50/50 and putting it in the car that way as opposed to putting half full strenght then trying to put in an equal amount of water. I always keep an extra bottle in the garage marked 50/50 so I know which one is already mixed and which isn't.
 
  #25  
Old 05-03-2006, 08:57 PM
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Default RE: Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet


ORIGINAL: JimKW

I think you are better off mixing it 50/50 and putting it in the car that way as opposed to putting half full strenght then trying to put in an equal amount of water. I always keep an extra bottle in the garage marked 50/50 so I know which one is already mixed and which isn't.
Agreed here as well.
 
  #26  
Old 05-04-2006, 12:10 AM
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Default RE: Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet

so i drained it out from both places...even blew into the coolant resevoir to get it all out. But again, when i added it back in...I was only able to add about 4L this time. Although i did premix it so it's the right ratio at least. I'll keep an eye on the temp level and watch for the low level light to come on...i'm curious as to why it's only taking 1/2 the capacity.

 
  #27  
Old 05-04-2006, 08:43 PM
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Default RE: Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet

When I drain and refill it usually take about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 gallons to fill up.
 
  #28  
Old 09-21-2008, 06:53 AM
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Default RE: Leaking Coolant...but not overheating...yet

My 850 turbo has recently developed a pin hole leak in the upper right side of radiator (nearby the upper radiator hose). Adding radiator sealant seems to be the easiest option, but Tech cautions about the possibility of plugging up the heater core.

A couple of questions:
1. Is this radiator sealant a permanent solution? Otherwise, how long is this good for?
2. I know where the leaky spot is and I was gonna apply "JB Weld" over it. Any reasons why I shouldn't use this product?
3. If you could post up (or send me a link) for detailed instruction on replacing radiator (1996 850 Turbo), I will certainly appreciate it. I've replaced a few radiators before, but I rather not mess with trans cooler lines if I don't have to. How much does radiator shop typically charge for the job?

Thanks!


 
  #29  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:35 PM
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Default Quick question about the stop leak?

I happen to have a coolant leak as well and it's really starting to irritate me due to the fact that I can locate the source. So i just picked up some "Bars Leaks" heavy duty stop leak, and wanted to know how did you administer it in your volvo? Did you put it in the overflow tank, or did you undo one of the main hoses and pour it in there? Lastly does it matter if the car is hot or cold when you pour it in? And after putting it in do the you have to run your car for atleast 20 minutes to get it to flush through?
 
  #30  
Old 03-24-2016, 09:50 PM
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you can find the product sheet on the barleaks.com website. here's what it says:

NOTE: Cooling systems that are dirty or partially clogged
should be flushed before usage. Protect bottle from
freezing.

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Allow engine to cool. Make sure engine is cool
enough so radiator cap can be safely removed.
2. Shake well. Pour Liquid Aluminum™ directly into
radiator. One bottle treats systems up to 4 gallons.
Use ˝ bottle for four cylinder engines.
TIP: If direct access to radiator is not available,
install in overflow tank.
3. Fill “top off” radiator and overflow / reservoir tank to
proper level and reinstall cap.
4. Turn heater on hot and fan on high.
5. Drive/idle engine for 10 to 20 minutes.
6. Leave BAR’S LEAKS® Liquid Aluminum™ in the
cooling system for continued protection. If leak
continues, second application may be required or
mechanical attention is needed.
 
  #31  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:29 PM
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Awesome thank you so much for the help is my first time owning a volvo so it's all brands new to me I'm used to driving ford's but I'm glad I upgraded. Thanks again for the tips and your quick response!!!
 
  #32  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:55 PM
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Default Last question

After using the stop leak am i able to fill it up with coolant again or how does that process work
 
  #33  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:29 PM
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the overflow tank has markings on it for max and min. with the engine cold, pop off the (green?) top on the coolant tank (the bottle at the nose on the engine over the passenger wheel) and fill with green 50/50 antifreeze to the max line. Don't use Dex-cool (orange)! Volvos want aluminum friendly coolant...
 
  #34  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:32 PM
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So it's ok to top it off to the max line after putting in Bars stop leak if the level is still low?
 
  #35  
Old 03-25-2016, 09:16 PM
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Sure. And also, If it keeps leaking you need to keep adding.
 
  #36  
Old 03-26-2016, 10:25 AM
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when the radiator started leaking on my 850 it was the side seam which gave the appearance of a single point of failure but was actually a vertical crack. I'm not a big fan of repairing radiators since the effort is in the removal/replace so I just went with Nissens and many years later, I'm still good. I would also not worry about the transmission lines - in fact many people remove them as a way of doing a transmission flush - you can find Youtube vids and IPD or FCP sell kits aka two buckets and some hose :-) To find out the labor, just call a local Volvo friendly indy. They should be able quote you the book labor rate.
 
  #37  
Old 03-26-2016, 08:10 PM
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Default New problem now w/ my volvo t5 850

So originally I just had a coolant leak which I've tracked down to be the hoses underneath the car connected to the radiator, now it's a coolant leak and a stalling issue..... I've noticed if my gas is over a quarter tank it doesn't happen but once I start creeping down to the quarter tank mark it acts real funny. When I'm driving everything is fine but once I hit a stop light or stop sign after about 45 seconds to maybe a minute it gets to a low idle and trys to stall. If I hit the gas in time it stays on but if I don't it shuts off on me. Any idea what's going on this time. Any advice is good advice right now. Thanks
 
  #38  
Old 03-27-2016, 09:48 AM
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time to start a new thread for your new topic. time to do research on the evap system and gas tank venting.
 
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