Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Loose 855 Rear Subframe Nut

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Old 12-15-2016, 02:35 AM
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Default Loose 855 Rear Subframe Nut

(I originally posted this on swedespeed.com but figured I'd try here as well...)

I started hearing some loud clunking around the rear passenger suspension area of my T-5R wagon and traced it to a loose subframe bolt which passes through the delta link. However, when I went to tighten it, the bolt just kept spinning an spinning. Looking for the nut so I could secure it, I found it behind a rubber body plug but was surprised to find it was of the rounded variety Presumably, it was welded to the frame at some point but has come apart over time. To make matters worse, it appears the only way to reach the bolt it through the small body hole in the floor Here's a video showing the issue:


Has anyone else encountered this before and, if so, (a) is there a better way to get to the bolt instead of through the drain hole and, if so, (b) what tool should I use to hold it in place so I can torque down the bolt? Hoping there's an easier solution other than cutting through the floor to get to the nut. Thx in advance for the help!
 
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Old 12-17-2016, 06:25 PM
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I may be looking at the same thing... drove my daughter's 850 wagon and hear a loud thump going on in the passenger rear side - almost like under the seat but not all the way back. Of course it crops up in the winter - after 6 inches of snow to make crawling under the car fun... I'll take a look around.
 
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:50 PM
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Finally got this addressed but had to enlist the help of a Volvo buddy with a MIG welder (thx Patrick!). Due to the tiny opening and lack of visibility with the gun tip in the hole, it's a bit of a blind weld to perform so it ain't gonna be pretty. Regardless, no one will ever see it once the job's done and the plug's back in place.

A simple tack weld wasn't working so he opted to create a little buildup of material along both the edge of nut and the floor pan. This essentially stopped the rotation by blocking it with the overlapped opposing portions of metal build up immobilizing the nut long & strong enough to torque things down. You can see how he did it with the before and after photos below:

Before

556DCE86-681F-4703-B003-401DDA1868E3_zpsyfxtdzdh.jpg?t=1482002219

After

IMG_4485_zps0wthvnal.jpg?t=1482002226

A few gruff tugs with an 18mm socket and breaker bar and she was snugged down and ready for another 100K miles. A quick test drive over uneven road surfaces brought with it the joyous sounds of silence.
 
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:43 AM
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cool. my problem turned out to be a broken trailing arm end link... so that's next on my list of repairs.
 
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