I'm fairly certain that my PCV system is clogged. I got some type of OBD2 code involving a vacuum problem, and pinpointed it to that... but never did anything about it.

A couple months back, I was driving on the highway, then heard what sounded like dry bearings in my engine! So I pulled over and, sure enough, no oil on the dipstick. I was at around 7,000 miles since an oil change, so I got one. Kept leaking out!

Did a little research, and apparently, looking at the camshaft gasket was a good place to start. TA DA! It appears that this is indeed where the oil is leaking.

Somebody had mentioned that the main reason for this is just that the engine is old, worn down and/or the PCV system is clogged. I have since been running with the dipstick gauge not fully seated in the filler tube!! Not the best idea, because I'm getting condensation in there.

My question is... if I replace the PCV system with the kit from IPD, and then replace the camshaft seal gasket... will it be possible that this engine is just too "old, worn down"???

I like the car, even tho it's got 290k miles on it. Only other problem is the A/C was having a little trouble right before the outside temps started getting cold. Just don't want to start spending hundreds of dollars on anything that's "old & worn down". Any thoughts??

 

before making the decision to spend money on getting a pcv kit, get a compression test done first just to know the health of your engine. you cant just guess without getting a test done. the pcv system is very important maintenance that needs to be replaced every 90-100k. you probably needs new seals. get the compression test done first.
#29 Compression Test « 1997 Volvo 850 Wagon Project
Compression Test - Volvo S70 GLT, 1998

 

What he said. Do a compression test to see if the motor is healthy. If that is good, replace the PCV and cam seals.

Cam Seal Replacement, rear, 1998 Volvo S70 GLT - Volvo 850 Cam Seal Replacement

Other than that, if the miles and age scare you, call me and I'll come take it off your hands.

I recently checked the oil in a S70 just 4000 into it's last oil change and there was nothing on the stick. I took the car, changed the oil and the PCV and all seems to be well now. A bad PCV and force oil out all over the place in these motors, including past the pistons.

 

And even worse the rear main seal...

 

I dont know what your car is yet but here are the specs for a turbo.



If you survive the compression test and move to replace the PCV and seals, dont stop at one seal. The rears are very easy to replace the fronts are just as easy but there is a timing belt in the way which makes it harder. But, if you dont know when the timing belt was replaced last, now may be the time.

Points for leaving the dip stick out a bit until this is resolved. Good call and hopefully saved you from MattyXXLs curse.

 

Hmm.... never thought of a compression test to gauge the health of an engine. Why didn't I think of that?

I think the compression will be pretty good if it's been blowing all this oil everywhere.

Did a bit more researching, and I did see how easy it is to replace the rear seals. I was coming here specifically for help on the front seals, which is what was really scaring me. Never done a timing job, but it looks TOO easy on this engine. And just to make sure, the only real objective is to make sure that both camshafts do not move in relation to the crankshaft, correct???

I'll just take the cover off tomorrow morning and check things out. I'm guessing that, at minimum, both exhaust camshaft seals will need to be replaced... and, therefore, the belt will need to be replaced as well. Didn't want to mess with the timing belt, for the simple fact that I wanted to do it right -- replacing the tesioner, idler, water pump, etc.

But just replacing the flame trap, 4 seals, and timing belt really doesn't seem like such a bad chore, honestly. Was definitely thinking of selling this car, but I doubt I'd be able to get $800 for it leaking the way it is and no functioning A/C in the Deep South.

I might just forgo the compression test, honestly. Don't want to blow anything up (see that WARNING to not use ignition switch in testing for compression; i actually have a Power Probe that I have yet to use, and I might be able to hook it up directly to the starter.... but the compression gauge I've got has rusty threads, and I really don't feel like buying another right now).

And BTW, what is "the curse of MattyXXL"??

EDIT: Oh, and this is the non-turbo 2.4L...

 

Answers in your post:

 

As Boxpin said, a badly worn motor will cause excessive internal pressure to build. You don't want to soak parts and time into a motor that is worn out and needs to be replaced.

Also, you must not have read the link that Slim gave you with the compression test because it tells you how to disable the ignition system to run the test.

 

Anybody got the specs for compression testing a Non-Turbo 2.4L ??

I finally got a new gauge, because I don't like putting very rusty things in my spark plug hole.

Upon removing the spark plug cover, there was oil EVERYWHERE!!! Probly just from the old oil filler cap gasket.

I sopped it all up with some paper towels, but now I just realized that the serpentine belt isn't connected... and I won't be able to connect it easily, since I removed the idler pulley and can't seem to fit it back on. I'd prefer to wait until I get my "replacement" idler pulley from RockAuto, since they sent me the wrong one several months ago. At least they're righting their wrong.

Soo... anyway.... it should be no problem to crank the engine without the serpentine belt, right??? Just might drain the battery a little fast, perhaps??

 

OK... I found the specs for the non-turbo 2.4L... Compression Test - Volvo S70 GLT, 1998

I quote....



Holy smokes. I figured the non-turbo motor would have been less PSI. Interesting.

Anyway, I'm ready to test. Just want to make 100% sure it's OK to do a compression test with the serpentine belt removed. I don't see why not, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

You can do a compression test without the serpentine belt. You should have a battery charger hooked up anyway to properly do the test.

 

The compression ratio for a turbo or supercharged engine, in general are less than for a normally aspirated one because the turbo or charger more than make up for the compression ratio once they start pushing air in. They effectively raise the compression ratio by pushing more air into the space.

Battery charger to make sure that the first cylinder you test is spinning as fast and the fifth.

 

Finally got around to testing this... and each cylinder was slightly over 210 psi.

Very good news. I guess that means it's worth doing the whole shebang --- timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, pcv system, & cam seals.

I'll still need to figure out why the A/C was going out last fall.... but at least I know the car's worth the trouble now.

 

This thing had VOLVO spark plugs, too. I'd imagine these things haven't been replaced in at least 100k miles.

Wonder if I should stick with those or just get some NGK or something else I can find locally...

 

They could be fairly fresh and the previous owner purchased them from the dealer or one of the online companies
Buy you're going to start a fight with what plugs. I like platinum because they last and I've had no problems. I'm running AC/Delco Part # : 41-800

Standard Champion copperpart # 344 or alternate part # RC9YC

 

I just did a quick Google search, and it appears that NGK actually makes a lot of AC/Delco plugs. Someone else commented that the Capital "C" in AC/Delco also stands for Champion... so Champion was once upon a time linked to AC/Delco, yet is now a separate company?? I actually like the look of the Volvo spark plugs better. I might pick them up, since this price seems fair to me. Each of the current plugs had a slight amount of "ash deposit" on one side (one third?) of the electrode. I'm assuming this came from the excess oil that was shooting everywhere. I probly don't need to replace these right now, but I guess it's just better to do it now and know that the engine is in tip top shape.

On to more pressing matters, however.... Volvo Timing Belt Kit (850 C70 V70 S70) - TBKIT252WP | FCP Euro

- Can these non-OEM components, which is almost half the price of the OEM kit, actually be any good?? FCP has a lifetime warranty on all products, so they must be OK, right?? Just wondering why anyone would pay 4x more for a single camshaft seal if the non-OEM also had a "fitment guarantee" along with a lifetime warranty. Non-OEM water pump is just as good??
- I actually already have a Gates serpentine belt already, so I'm wondering if FCP will be able to make a "custom" kit and give me the OEM camshaft seals and keep the belt. But then again... my Gates belt only comes with a 3-yr warranty!! Guess I'll just have to call and work my magic if that sounds like a good idea. Or maybe get the OEM water pump instead??

 

Hmmmm, timing belt kit... Once upon a time, people would replace the belt only ever/other/change, now most people replace everything every time. parts to cheap to take the risk, especially if you're doing the job yourself.

I have read very little about parts failures on non-OEM parts when replaced every change. I have read where some have had parts failures which did results in damaged motors. So, roll the dice and change all the parts. I only replace the parts that are worn or bad. I don't mind going back in if I have to. I did my belt 15k ago and did not replace the tensioner roller or water pump. Now I have a noise from the t-belt area, not sure if a part in there is making a noise or cams. At any rate, I plan to pull the cams and do the valve stem seals so I'll be back in there soon.

I would try to use Hepa or Asain water pump. Not sure about the rollers, they don't sell the idler that I liked any more. The belt that I use is Conti???. I only replace the tensioner if it's leaking.

On the cam seals, I only use OEM. I have read a lot about the other's leaking in under 3 years. Our S70 had seal failures within 3 years of us having the car and they were not OEM. I put OEM back in there but pulled them after doing a head gasket job. I may not have all OEM's in there now, just the exhaust end on the S70. I would not mess with the seals until the PCV is done and then I would only mess with the leaking seals.

 

I would not recommend doing the timing belt and not replace the idler and tensioner roller. If they fail, you're looking at some engine damage, most likely. The water pump isn't as risky. Sure, if it leaks you have to take the belt back off- but it isn't going to bend valves. Just something to consider.

No comment on OEM vs. aftermarket. I work at a dealer so I use OEM for anything I do my car or side work.

 

I've been taking my sweet time with this, since I've got a number of cars that need various tune ups.

But here's what I've got for THE 'VO...

(1) PCV kit w/ Volvo hoses.
(2) Gates Timing Belt Kit ( # TCK252 ), which ignores the hydraulic tensioner assembly, and Gates Water Pump ( # 41110 ).
(3) Volvo camshaft seals & other seals.
(4) 4 or 5 oil filler cap seals.
(5) I've already got a Gates serpentine belt, so no need to get the whole timing kit with el cheapo camshaft seals.

My question is...

What are these two NON-camshaft seals??



The kit labels 4x camshaft seals, which I see, 1x "intermediate shaft" seal, and that's it. I see 6 seals in the pic, not 5.

 

OK.... So I'm guessing that the larger seal in the pic is the crankshaft seal?? And the red seal is the intermediate shaft seal.

Only thing I can find on the crankshaft seal is that there is just one available for the REAR, which would be the transmission side of the engine, no?

Maybe that larger seal isn't for the crankshaft?? I dunno.

This is what I'm thinking of purchasing now (changed from Gates water pump to Hepu)...

- Volvo PCV kit from FCP = $150
- Volvo Camshaft, Crankshaft, & Intermediate shaft seals from TascaParts = $116
- Gates Timing Belt Kit from RockAuto = $104
- Hepu Water Pump from FCP = $60
- Already have Gates Serpentine belt = $0

I'm finally ready to order now. But want to make sure I've identified that larger seal correctly as the crankshaft seal. Red one is intermediate shaft. But the larger one is..... ????