I called FCP and, sure enough, the larger seal is the rear main seal. It's not included in the kit (which is why it's not listed), but it somehow is included in the picture...

The TAKEFIVE coupon no longer worked on FCP's website, but I called and they were able to help me shave a few dollars off both the PCV kit and the HEPU water pump,
plus I threw in 5 oil filler cap gaskets since I intend to drive this car for quite some time.

I ordered the 5 seals thru TascaParts.com saving a few bucks versus FCP, and they actually had a few free shipping coupon codes that just expired. Could've waited to call them tomorrow and shave off that $10 on some freaking uber-lightweight seals. But I'm tired of pushing these orders off off day after day.

And got the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto.

Grand total was a few cents under $400 for PCV kit with Genuine Volvo hoses *and* timing belt kit with Genuine Volvo seals.

I just hope the clogged PCV system didn't blow out the rear main seal... and that not getting the timing belt hydraulic tensioner aduster assembly won't come back to bite me in the ***. That would royally suck.

 

I know $$$ can be an issue, as it is with most folks, but after researching & spending that much, not to mention the time and labor involved, you're not going to change the tensioner? If you know the history ok, but why take the chance of even thinking it could bite you in the ***? Plus you have to recompress the old one and hopefully not blow the seal. Just thought I would mention it! Good luck and hope it all go's smooth!!! MTC.

 

Those hydraulic tensioners don't go bad that often. I have done about 8 belts and maybe 2 were bad. Just compress it slow and if you find that it leaks it will only take about 30 minutes to change it out when you get one. If I found one leaking I would install it and try to get it replaced within a few weeks.

 

What and where is an intermediate shaft seal?

 

The Gates kit comes with the timing belt, idler pulley, and roller tensioner. It was suggested twice ealrier in this thread that I not even bother with it, or at least only stressed that I change the idler & roller... so I'll take the advice.

I really don't know. Perhaps a seal behind the crankshaft sprocket? Was hoping you guys would know.

 

Our engines dont have them. They are shafts that are somewhere between the crank and the cams and usually run an oil pump and/or distributor. Common on many engine manufacturers.

 

How long/miles have you owned this vehicle and have you done any upgrades to it or is it basically stock ??

 

Owned for the past year and a half. Only put around 10k miles on it.

Was planning to sell it at a pofit... but seeing as how these engines are so damn reliable, I think I'm gonna keep it as long as possible.

Everything should be here tomorrow, excuding the Gates kit (RockAuto takes 2 weeks to ship, amazing ) .... so I'll be able to have the PCV kit and half the camshaft seals installed before the weekend gets here... then I'll have the entire weekend to do the opposite camshaft seals, water pump, & timing belt.

And I'll need to order a 10-pack of oil filters from FCP, since I'm so damn dedicated to this car now.

But yea.... it's all stock. Reason I know the plugs likely haven't been changed in close to 100k miles is that the car had all kindsa Volvo dealer repair documentation, but it stopped about 100k miles ago. I got it for $1,200 because the previous owners didn't feel like putting money into replacing the driver's side CV joint.

And will need to figure out why the A/C was going out as winter was starting to pick up, last year. I've read threads that there's some Duracool refrigerant that's supposed to fix it if it's leaking. ??? And another thread stated that a washer / shim thingy was all that's needed. I dunno. When the time comes....

As for upgrades, I cleaned out the throttle body and IAC valve. Does that count?? The only real performance upgrade I would consider on a daily driver is punching out the cat, but I've only done that on OBD1 vehicles. Not sure if an OBD2 car would spit out an angry code at me.

 

The "shim trick" is for an AC system that is properly charged but still cycles on and off rapidly or won't stay on at all.

When the time comes you can track down the link for installing the bread clip :-)

 

Symptoms were that it wouldn't work one day, then it'd work the next. Then it wouldn't work ONLY out of the passenger side. Then it would. Then it wouldn't work out of the passenger side ONLY, once more. Then it stopped working. Don't know if I would call it "rapid cycling", however.

There were a few times when this first started, where turning left got it to kick on. So that's why I think it had something to do with that.

But cold out one side and hot out the other side [at least, temporarily], led me to believe it was something with the MCC cables. I seriously doubt this theory, tho. Not sure....

Am looking at some "bread clip" threads right now. Thanks for the heads up!!

 

Sounds like a controller issue to me.

 

As in Manual Climate Control??

It's possible, as I did have the carpet removed to replace the heater core & haven't re-installed it. But the way it was going off and on, I'm pretty sure it's one of these problems...

- Shim Fix - Hard --> Volvo AC Pump Shim
- Shim Fix - Easy --> 850 A/c Clutch Gap Fix - FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior - Volvospeed Forums
- Black light to test for leaks & use multi-meter on Compressor hot wire --> Newbie with an a.c. question - Page 3 - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum
- Bypass overheat [and low pressure?] switches --> A/C Does Not Cool Good When HOT - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum

But yea, I'll figure it out when the time comes.

 

Punching out the converter on a daily driver is a waste of time. There is no real gain.

Converters aren't that restrictive and punching one out would be like running without an air filter so you don't have the matching restriction in the intake.
Yes, you'd be looking at a constant check engine light.

Do you have MCC or ECC for the Heat/AC controller ??

 

Man... PCV system took me about 10 hours to change out this weekend, mostly just because it was my first time. I'd imagine it'd take me 3 or 4 hours now that I know what I'm doing.

But that intake manifold is a biznitch. I used to think this car was all that, but now I dunno. I can understand why people say Volvo's are expensive to work on now!!

Everything was almost put together without a hitch, when I get to my very last throttle body bolt, which didn't seem like it was getting snug at all... and then SNAP. Half of the bolt just fell out. So, I guess the other half is threaded in the intake manifold, not doing its job in sealing the throttle body gasket. I was making then snug since I didn't use a new gasket, and it already looked like there was a tad bit of fuel starting to make its way toward the outer edges of the gasket. Sucky!! Wondering how good 3 out of 4 throttle body bolts will be able to handle the road. Seems sturdy enough, at least.... but I'm sure there's GOTTA be some kinda leaking with the gasket that's already razor thin.

FCP's clamps (which I thought were Genuine Volvo?) were too loose, so I had to go get some regular hose clamps. Had to replace some small elbows, a vacuum line, & a fuel line that weren't included with the kit. Spent maybe an hour and a half cleaning up the intake manifold with degreaser, just to snap the TB bolt inside it. Oh man.

Also, there is one vacuum hose that starts on the LEFT-SIDE of the intake manifold, NEAR THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.... but the other end started out not being connected to anything. It was kinda just hanging below the TB when I first started... so I'm wondering where that's really supposed to go.

Just need to put the serpentine belt on tomorrow and take her for a test ride. I think I read that the ideal method is to ride the car around for a few days after changing the PCV system and THEN change the oil, correct? I'd have figured that changing the oil at the same time one changes the PCV system would make more sense.

Then I've still got the timing belt & water pump to do, but that will be cake compared to the PCV, I'm sure.

 

The reason to put some miles on the engine after doing the PCV is so that any crud you may have loosened gets flushed down into the pan and out. If you pull the oil cap and the engine is really clean just give it a couple days and do the LOF. If it looks a little nasty with some sludge or milky white crap you can always toss in a can of Seafoam to help clean it up before you do that LOF.

 

What is LOF?? L-Something Oil Flush?

Also, I was looking thru some of the pics on my phone and noticed another hose that wasn't connected when I started this.

And when I said "rear end" of the intake manifold, I actually meant on the side of the intake manifold, near the FRONT-END of the engine. In other words, there's a port on the opposite end of the throttle body with a hose attached that leads to nowhere.

The picture I'm posting is one of the original PCV hoses that wasn't actually connected to anything. Maybe it goes to that lone port on the intake manifold??? And I certainly don't remember connecting that hose to anything on re-assembly. How could I? Probly shoulda asked BEFORE I put it back together. But oh well... At least the picture got me thinking about it...

 

On the new kit, the hose should have already been connected to the flame trap. Did you use any instructions?

You will likely have a leak at the throttle body. You'll need to install another bolt.

 

- I used some instructions that I found here at VolvoForums (altho, I stopped using them upon reinstallation) --> https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...acement-33970/
- And here is the PCV kit I ordered, just for reference --> Volvo PCV Breather System Kit (850 S70 V70 Non Turbo) 850T300 | FCP Euro

- The two PCV hoses that are wrapped together were, indeed, already connected to the flametrap.
- The bigger hose is now connected to the oil trap.
- My question is about the other hose... the one in my picture, which isn't connected to anything on the front-end of the engine.
- Again, there is another, entirely separate hose that's already connected to the left side of the intake manifold, on the front-end of the engine.... that wraps around to the right side (rear end) of the engine, but it was just hanging below the throttle body with nothing to connect to.

- The only possible thing I can think is that this hose already connected to the manifold is extra and needs to come out. And the smaller PCV hose needs to connect to the left side of the manifold.

 

Anybody know what the only hose that isn't connected in this picture should actually be connected to???

Attachment 8376

Is it supposed to be attached to the left side of the manifold??

 

Yes it is. So I'm not sure what hose you have there but you must have something mixed up.