lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
#1
lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
Hello...
I'm in the process of changing out the pcv system. It's my first time trying this and i just pulled the fuel rail off the injectors.... in the process 1 of the O rings was lost. I'm hoping that i'll find it when i pull the intake manifold, but in case i don't, should i risk driving it in that condition?
At the moment the other car's in the shop getting a bumper painted and this is my only driver...was planning on going out tonight if i get the job done in time...but the o ring thing worries me a bit. Dunno if i should even drive it to the dealer on monday to pick one up.
Any suggestions?
I'm in the process of changing out the pcv system. It's my first time trying this and i just pulled the fuel rail off the injectors.... in the process 1 of the O rings was lost. I'm hoping that i'll find it when i pull the intake manifold, but in case i don't, should i risk driving it in that condition?
At the moment the other car's in the shop getting a bumper painted and this is my only driver...was planning on going out tonight if i get the job done in time...but the o ring thing worries me a bit. Dunno if i should even drive it to the dealer on monday to pick one up.
Any suggestions?
#4
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
well...for once something fell where i could actually find it... after pulling the intake i found the o ring lying under the car all by itself. I cleaned it up and will put it all back together tomorrow if all goes well. Took the intake manifold into work tonight and sand blasted it. Looks brand new. I had no idea how much of a PITA some of these bolts could be...mainly the last one on the EGR valve...
Anywho... got everything set to re-assemble tomorrow....let's just hope my memory doesn't fail me and i remember where everything should be connected....
Thanks for the help...
and yes...if i was to drive it, i already had the fire extinguisher in the passenger seat just in case... Just glad it didn't have to come to that .... (yet....)
Anywho... got everything set to re-assemble tomorrow....let's just hope my memory doesn't fail me and i remember where everything should be connected....
Thanks for the help...
and yes...if i was to drive it, i already had the fire extinguisher in the passenger seat just in case... Just glad it didn't have to come to that .... (yet....)
#5
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
well, i thought i was all finished after re-assembling the intake manifold and injectors. Drove it for a bit last night and for about 10 mintues today.... Tried starting it up at lunch and it was idling very rough. Went and opened the hood and saw i was spraying fuel everywhere sad.gif
Looks like one of the seals was damaged. IT's the one that is on the top of the injector that seals to the fuel rail. Looks like it's completly cut...i think i may have damaged it when putting the rail back on.... Not sure why it too start leaking though. In any case, i had to break down and rent a car for the day since i needed to be at work.
I picked up 5 new seals from the dealership today but they look different from what i remember seeing. From what i remember these seals were O rings...but the seal that i got from the dealer looked different. It wasn't round all the way around like an o ring, but looked to be flatter. Maybe i was mistaken about the one originally on the car...but does anyone know if these are Round O rings or if they're the flater design? The part number or the seal is 3528216-9 (Spacer Ring). Is this the correct one?
Also, does anyone have any tips on how to best re-install injectors/fuel rail. i'd hate to damage another one tonight when i put them back together.
Thanks!
Looks like one of the seals was damaged. IT's the one that is on the top of the injector that seals to the fuel rail. Looks like it's completly cut...i think i may have damaged it when putting the rail back on.... Not sure why it too start leaking though. In any case, i had to break down and rent a car for the day since i needed to be at work.
I picked up 5 new seals from the dealership today but they look different from what i remember seeing. From what i remember these seals were O rings...but the seal that i got from the dealer looked different. It wasn't round all the way around like an o ring, but looked to be flatter. Maybe i was mistaken about the one originally on the car...but does anyone know if these are Round O rings or if they're the flater design? The part number or the seal is 3528216-9 (Spacer Ring). Is this the correct one?
Also, does anyone have any tips on how to best re-install injectors/fuel rail. i'd hate to damage another one tonight when i put them back together.
Thanks!
#6
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
Well, i thought all was well until i started my car up today on my way back to work from lunch...started idleing very rough...so i popped the hood and saw a good steady stream of fuel coming from an injector. Popped of the fuel rail and saw that it was cut.
Took some pics which might help explain it.
Took the injector into the dealer and they said the O ring is not a serviceable item on that...meaning buy a $185 injector for a 20 cent seal. The parts they gave me are more of spacers he said. Here's that pic.
I didn't loose any of those (that i know of). So onto the cut O ring on the injector. There's actually 2 of them Top and bottom. It's not the blue one but the 2 black o rings. My dumbass must have messed it up when putting the rail back on.
So i went to a few auto stores...no dice...got one that was the right ID, but was too thin. Went to Home Depot, and in the pluming section they had a kit of 10 of them for $2. They're english, but measure pretty damn close my holding them next to eachother. I'm just not sure about if it's safe to use that. Fuel compatibility...temperature range...pressure.... i defeinitly don't want it melting down and clogging up stuff. What do you think?
Hey, if anyone knows of any dead injectors out there willing to part with an o ring...lemme know. I'd take the one off my mom's '94, but i think they'd catch on.
Took some pics which might help explain it.
Took the injector into the dealer and they said the O ring is not a serviceable item on that...meaning buy a $185 injector for a 20 cent seal. The parts they gave me are more of spacers he said. Here's that pic.
I didn't loose any of those (that i know of). So onto the cut O ring on the injector. There's actually 2 of them Top and bottom. It's not the blue one but the 2 black o rings. My dumbass must have messed it up when putting the rail back on.
So i went to a few auto stores...no dice...got one that was the right ID, but was too thin. Went to Home Depot, and in the pluming section they had a kit of 10 of them for $2. They're english, but measure pretty damn close my holding them next to eachother. I'm just not sure about if it's safe to use that. Fuel compatibility...temperature range...pressure.... i defeinitly don't want it melting down and clogging up stuff. What do you think?
Hey, if anyone knows of any dead injectors out there willing to part with an o ring...lemme know. I'd take the one off my mom's '94, but i think they'd catch on.
#7
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
In the Mitsubishi world, you can buy new o-rings for each injector without buying the injector.
Besides Volvo, Bosch injectors are used in
Ford Most, Chrysler Most, BMW 300, 323, 633 engine codes, Saab 2.31 Turbo, & Porsche 944 Turbo
Maybe, you could find some from those dealerships. I don't know.
Besides Volvo, Bosch injectors are used in
Ford Most, Chrysler Most, BMW 300, 323, 633 engine codes, Saab 2.31 Turbo, & Porsche 944 Turbo
Maybe, you could find some from those dealerships. I don't know.
#8
#10
#11
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
Well the saga continues...
I ordered some O rings online and they came in today... In the process before, i lost one of the egr bolts so had to order another one of those which came in today as well. For some reason i couldn't get the only bolt holding the egr valve off w/o taking off the intake manifold again....(3rd time now). All was going well until i noticed i tore an elbow on the vacuum tree thing. But when i was putting it back together i dropped 2 of the bolts holding the manifold on and misplaced the ones holding the throttle cable and vacuum tree. Definitely hasn't been my night... But on the bright side...the parts dept is open til noon tomorrow. I just hope they have this stuff in stock.
Is there anywhere i can lookup and see what thread pattern and lenghts those bolts are? If the stealership isn't open when i finally get out of bed.or doesn't have them...i'm wondering if i can get 'em from a auto parts store or home depot or somehting... I'm itchin' to get her back on the road...been driving a ragged out intrepid test vehicle from work for the past week, not so much fun
Another question... is there a good way to hold bolts in a socket when you're trying to screw them in blindly? Like the lower bolt on the passenger side holding the manifold to the block. I lost 2 of 7 trying to get this sucker in.
Thanks
I ordered some O rings online and they came in today... In the process before, i lost one of the egr bolts so had to order another one of those which came in today as well. For some reason i couldn't get the only bolt holding the egr valve off w/o taking off the intake manifold again....(3rd time now). All was going well until i noticed i tore an elbow on the vacuum tree thing. But when i was putting it back together i dropped 2 of the bolts holding the manifold on and misplaced the ones holding the throttle cable and vacuum tree. Definitely hasn't been my night... But on the bright side...the parts dept is open til noon tomorrow. I just hope they have this stuff in stock.
Is there anywhere i can lookup and see what thread pattern and lenghts those bolts are? If the stealership isn't open when i finally get out of bed.or doesn't have them...i'm wondering if i can get 'em from a auto parts store or home depot or somehting... I'm itchin' to get her back on the road...been driving a ragged out intrepid test vehicle from work for the past week, not so much fun
Another question... is there a good way to hold bolts in a socket when you're trying to screw them in blindly? Like the lower bolt on the passenger side holding the manifold to the block. I lost 2 of 7 trying to get this sucker in.
Thanks
#12
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
It will be a metric thread. I think it is either 8mm or 10mm.
To help install the bolts. I always use what I call Dumb Dumd. It is the black sticky stuff like they use on some solid windows in cars. I use a little bit on the head of the bolt and it will stay in the socket.
To help install the bolts. I always use what I call Dumb Dumd. It is the black sticky stuff like they use on some solid windows in cars. I use a little bit on the head of the bolt and it will stay in the socket.
#13
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
The lower bolt on the passenger side of the intake manifold? On my car I put that bolt in before putting on the manifold just like all the lower bolts. Then the manifold slipped over the bolts because they were notches not holes. Then I put the upper bolts through the holes and tightened them all down. You have to have a long attenna type magnet. I was able to retrieve every bolt I dropped except one that fell down right next to the headlight. Mine is a 97 so maybe you manifold has holes on top and bottom. I can see where that would make it tough to get on. Hope you get that thing running soon. I really like that yellow submarine.
#14
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
ORIGINAL: JimKW
The lower bolt on the passenger side of the intake manifold? On my car I put that bolt in before putting on the manifold just like all the lower bolts. Then the manifold slipped over the bolts because they were notches not holes. Then I put the upper bolts through the holes and tightened them all down. You have to have a long attenna type magnet. I was able to retrieve every bolt I dropped except one that fell down right next to the headlight. Mine is a 97 so maybe you manifold has holes on top and bottom. I can see where that would make it tough to get on. Hope you get that thing running soon. I really like that yellow submarine.
The lower bolt on the passenger side of the intake manifold? On my car I put that bolt in before putting on the manifold just like all the lower bolts. Then the manifold slipped over the bolts because they were notches not holes. Then I put the upper bolts through the holes and tightened them all down. You have to have a long attenna type magnet. I was able to retrieve every bolt I dropped except one that fell down right next to the headlight. Mine is a 97 so maybe you manifold has holes on top and bottom. I can see where that would make it tough to get on. Hope you get that thing running soon. I really like that yellow submarine.
Thanks for the tips!
#15
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
Well, i got it all back together...MUCH easier now that i know to put the lower bolts on first. However...when i started it up, it died almost immediatly. After trying a few more times, i gave it some gas and forced it above 1500 RPM. Even at a steady throttle, the RPM level would jump up and down...very sporatic. I let it idle at about 2000 rpm for a while hoping that it was just some carb cleaner going through the system.
There was a lot of smoking from the passenger side, similar to what happened last time (thinking this may be antifreeze burning off since i did spill some when taking a hose off.
I was finally able to get it going steady...would have a very rough idle at under 1000 rpm and usually would stall out if i didn't keep giving it gas. So i drove around for about 10 minutes and almost every time i'd come to a stop it would start to stall...had a couple close calls as the power breaks started to fade quickly when this would happen. So i pulled the check engine codes and this is what i got.
233 Long term fuel trim at idle exceeded contol limits.
241 EGR system, flow too low
452 Misfire cylinder 2, emissions levels exceeded
454 Misfire cylinder 4, emissions levels exceeded
455 Misfire cylinder 5, emissions levels exceeded
542 Misfire more than 1 cylinder
543 Misfire at least 1 cylinder
544 Misfire more than 1 cylinder three way cat damag
545 Misfire at least 1 cylinder three way cat damage
552 Misfire cylinder 2, three way cat damage
554 Misfire cylinder 4, three way cat damage
555 Misfire cylinder 5, three way cat damage
So i have cleared them now and have tried starting her up. Same as before...it will stall out if i don't give it gas, but from idleing for maybe 3 minutes or so, no Engine light came on and no more codes were present. Although it still runs like crap.
Also, there is a loud whistleing sound that starts over 3000 rpm or so....gets louder when i give it more gas. Sounds to me like an air leak somewhere, but i can't tell where it's coming from as i have to be in the car to keep on the gas or she'll stall.
I'm at a complete loss here...i'm pretty sure i hooked everything back up and tightened down all the bolts and hose clamps. The first time i re-installed the manifold, i didn't have any of these problems and no Check engine light ever came on until i lost the injector O ring. Any ideas where i can begin?
Is there something that should be adjusted like the throttle cable or idle setting?
There was a lot of smoking from the passenger side, similar to what happened last time (thinking this may be antifreeze burning off since i did spill some when taking a hose off.
I was finally able to get it going steady...would have a very rough idle at under 1000 rpm and usually would stall out if i didn't keep giving it gas. So i drove around for about 10 minutes and almost every time i'd come to a stop it would start to stall...had a couple close calls as the power breaks started to fade quickly when this would happen. So i pulled the check engine codes and this is what i got.
233 Long term fuel trim at idle exceeded contol limits.
241 EGR system, flow too low
452 Misfire cylinder 2, emissions levels exceeded
454 Misfire cylinder 4, emissions levels exceeded
455 Misfire cylinder 5, emissions levels exceeded
542 Misfire more than 1 cylinder
543 Misfire at least 1 cylinder
544 Misfire more than 1 cylinder three way cat damag
545 Misfire at least 1 cylinder three way cat damage
552 Misfire cylinder 2, three way cat damage
554 Misfire cylinder 4, three way cat damage
555 Misfire cylinder 5, three way cat damage
So i have cleared them now and have tried starting her up. Same as before...it will stall out if i don't give it gas, but from idleing for maybe 3 minutes or so, no Engine light came on and no more codes were present. Although it still runs like crap.
Also, there is a loud whistleing sound that starts over 3000 rpm or so....gets louder when i give it more gas. Sounds to me like an air leak somewhere, but i can't tell where it's coming from as i have to be in the car to keep on the gas or she'll stall.
I'm at a complete loss here...i'm pretty sure i hooked everything back up and tightened down all the bolts and hose clamps. The first time i re-installed the manifold, i didn't have any of these problems and no Check engine light ever came on until i lost the injector O ring. Any ideas where i can begin?
Is there something that should be adjusted like the throttle cable or idle setting?
#16
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
Make sure the idle motor hoses are connected.
If you have carb/Brake cleaner have someone try to keep it running at just above idle. Then spray all around the intake and all hoses. When you either here is rev up or die out you found your leak.
Also make sure your intercooler hoses are hooked up.
If you have carb/Brake cleaner have someone try to keep it running at just above idle. Then spray all around the intake and all hoses. When you either here is rev up or die out you found your leak.
Also make sure your intercooler hoses are hooked up.
#17
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
ORIGINAL: tech
Make sure the idle motor hoses are connected.
If you have carb/Brake cleaner have someone try to keep it running at just above idle. Then spray all around the intake and all hoses. When you either here is rev up or die out you found your leak.
Also make sure your intercooler hoses are hooked up.
Make sure the idle motor hoses are connected.
If you have carb/Brake cleaner have someone try to keep it running at just above idle. Then spray all around the intake and all hoses. When you either here is rev up or die out you found your leak.
Also make sure your intercooler hoses are hooked up.
What/where is the idle motor hoses located? are they vacuum lines or something else?
Well, i was able to nurse it and took it on the highway for a bit. The engine light came on after about 5 mintues of driving and the whistling noise was pretty much constant. Checked the codes again and this is what came up:
454 Misfire cylinder 4, emissions levels exceeded
455 Misfire cylinder 5, emissions levels exceeded
543 Misfire at least 1 cylinder
544 Misfire more than 1 cylinder three way cat damag
545 Misfire at least 1 cylinder three way cat damage
554 Misfire cylinder 4, three way cat damage
555 Misfire cylinder 5, three way cat damage
When i got back it would idle in park w/o me reving it, but it seemed to rev itself... RPM was going from 1k-3k every 2-4 seconds pretty consistantly
Thanks for the help
#18
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
The Idle motor is under the black cover by the throttle cable. It is the cylinder looking thing with the 2 hoses going to it.
Alot of times if there is no clamps on the hose one side will blow off. Most of the time the lower one gets left out for a clamp and blows off.
Also do like I said with the Carb cleaner and it should help you find an Air leak.
Also make sure the injector plugs are seated all the way.
Alot of times if there is no clamps on the hose one side will blow off. Most of the time the lower one gets left out for a clamp and blows off.
Also do like I said with the Carb cleaner and it should help you find an Air leak.
Also make sure the injector plugs are seated all the way.
#19
RE: lost injector o ring...can i drive it?
I'll try to re-seat the injectors...i know the seal between the rail/injectors are good b/c i'm not spraying fuel like before However, when i put them in, the blue seals that sit into the manifold seemed a bit loose.
Ahh...so that's the idle motor... it is definitely plugged in, i can hear it running after the car stalls out.
Should there be a bolt or something here? See pic below.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2134/C533BCC21EBB4CED838B8E7E1656755E.jpg[/IMG]
Ahh...so that's the idle motor... it is definitely plugged in, i can hear it running after the car stalls out.
Should there be a bolt or something here? See pic below.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2134/C533BCC21EBB4CED838B8E7E1656755E.jpg[/IMG]
#20