I tried spraying the carb cleaner over almost every hose on the intake side and when it was running and it didn't have any effect. My buddy who was helping said that the exhaust smelled like gas then we took a look at the tailpipe and it's covered in soot...thinking this is from the misfire in cylinders 4 and 5. These are the last 2 on the driver side correct?
I"m gonna pull the spark plugs and have a look at them.

So onto the injectors... i pulled them out and re-seated them. When i had the manifold off, there was quite a bit of buildup around where the lower O ring would seal on. I cleaned this out w/ carb cleaner and a rag and they're nice an shiny now. Do you think that it's possible that cleaning them allowed for an air leak? wondering if the buildup was actually helping it to seal?

For the Blue lower seals on the injectors, how tight should that be? There seems to be a bit of play even after they're installed and the fuel rail tightened down all the way. Is this seal there to keep stuff from getting into the manifold or to provide an air tight seal? I woiuld think the lower O ring is to make it air tight...but i'm not sure.

 

The lower o-rings make it an air tight seal. If they leak it creates a vaccum leak.
You can also spray them with Carb cleaner.

It sounds like it is running way to rich.

 

The plugs looked pretty bad There was a lot of carbon buildup on them, so i cleamed 'em up re-installed them but still is doing the same thing. How would one check to make sure they are indeed sparking?

How could i check to see if it is running rich? Does this mean too much fuel is being put in or that it's being injected and not being ignited?

I'm gonna pull the injectors again and clean the bottom o rings. I might just go ahead and replace them since i ordered extras when i got the top ones. To me, the whistling noise actually sounded to be coming from the area of the LH injectors, but it was hard to tell for sure. I'm really at a loss for where else it could be coming from unless it's the manifold gasket that's leaking, but i used a new one, so don't know if this is even a possibility. i'm sure i cranked them all down tightly.

 

Looks like I found the source. At the rightmost intake bolt there is a metal bracket that shields the PCV tubing. I had the bracket between the manifold and Gasket. In the end that was the only thing different from when i put it back on the first time (i dropped it before and thought it was lost).

As i know have learned the metal bracket should be on the outside of the intake manifold. Looks like the way it was positioned before it was causing the leak. probably was letting air into cylinders 4 and 5 where i was having the mis fires... Still not sure why the exhaust reaked of fuel...but it's better now.

i put the bracket in its correct postition, retightened the manifold bolts and she's running fine now. And it only took me 1 hour and 15 mintues to take it off and put it back on.... I've had WAY too much practice w/ this now...7x by my count.

It's been a crazy couple weekends working on it....but i've learned a lot (mostly what not to do)

Thanks for all the help

Now...the best part of the job is here.... BEER TIME!

[sm=bounceybounce.gif]

 

Congrats!!!!

When you had the leak unmetered air was entering. Making the computer think is was running lean. Then the computer was giving it more gas. Causing the running rich condition.

 

OK...i am officially a dumbass... was cleaning everythring up today and re-assembling all the covers, etc... and i noticed a bolt seemed to be missing from the fuel rail to intake manifold. Long story short...i popped the head of the bolt off and only have 1 bolt holding the rail to the manifold. I thought it seemed a bit loose when tightening it, but thought worse case i stripped a thread....had the music up too loud to hear the "POP" of the head shearing off the bolt...

The other bolt is nice and secured inside the manifold where i have little chance of reaching it.... Never done an Easy Out Before...but my buddy says it should be easy since it's readily accesable. Have you guys had any experience w/ this? is this something that needs a pro to do it correctly? The last thing i wanna do is to have to re-drill and tap a new hole just for popping the head off a bolt...

 

The most Important thing to make sure you do is!!!!!!

Use a spring loaded center punch and make sure you get it in the center of the bolt.
Then make sure you drill 100% straight. As long as you do that it should be cake. You snapped it because you overtightened the bolt. The part that is left should come out easy.

You might also want to try to use a small all or pick to unscrew it before you drill it.

 

got it out w/ no problems.... 'cept for 1 broken bit...but a small price to pay.

I did try tapping it w/ a pick first at the reccomendation of a bunch of ppl at work. I must have asked 20 ppl about this today and got a wide range of tips.

I didn't use a punch or anything...never even heard of a center punch before today...but it sounds like it would be a better way to do it. I was actually off center w/ the drill, but then tried drilling at an angle towards the center. Sprayed a bunch of penetrant w/ teflon in there first. The easy out worked perfectly. I actually used the smallest bit i had trying to get a pilot hole going...but that was enough for the easy out even. it came out like a charm and i didn't even need to take the rail back off.... beginners luck i guess i'm sure it would be hell w/ anything on the exhaust side. I was pretty happy and am keeping the broken part as a trophy for at least the next few days (simple minds simple pleasures...)

i also replaced the rubber elbow to the EGR valve which was completely torn... Took her out for the first trip and was loving every second of it. I just wish it wasn't so rainy/snowy here... hard to hook up and get decent traction from a standstill.

I'm thinking about doing my o2 sensor next. No lights are on or anything...but i've heard this can be a good thing to change around 100k to get a bit more power back... After that.. time for a cd player which i've been missing badly...but the sound at WOT definitely helps make up for the lack of good music!

 

Congrats gald it was easy for you to get it out.

You are learning more and more everyday. Pretty soon you will be kicking me out of here!!! LOL

 

Congrat man! Sounds like you and I have been going through similar stuff with our cars.

By the way I have a Volvo CD changer that was in my 94 850 Turbo. It goes in the glove box and uses the factory wiring harness. It's not that hard to hook up, but a bit of a pain to install because you have to take the glove box out and anchor it back behind the box. It plays great and I don't really need it because both my cars have in-dash CD Players now. This one is a six disk changer. It says Volvo on it and I bought it from the dealer about five years ago. If your interested let me know. You probably already have the best head unit since your car is the T5R, and this would hook right up to it.