I am having many codes on my car. First of all, is it possible to get a 'check engine' light after changing the coolant? second, for the fuel and exhaust systems I am getting 1-2-1, and 1-3-2 (MAP sensor, and battery voltage). Third, for the brakes, I am getting 1-4-1, 2-1-3, 2-1-4, and 4-2-4, fourth for the power seat, I am getting 3-3-2, and 3-3-3. Note that I am getting no signal at all from the coolind, heating and air conditioning systems, or the engine electrical systems. Are these supposed to be checked with the OBD2?

 

The 121 codes is for the mass flow sensor.
The 132 is either low batt voltage or high batt voltage.

ABS CODES
The 141 faulty pedal sensor,short circuit to ground or supply.
The 213 left rear wheel sensor ,signal absent when moving off.
The 214 right rear wheel sensor,signal absent when moving off.
The 424 tracs pressure switch, faulty or short circuit.

Power seat
The 332 motor2 faulty lead
The 333 motor3 faulty lead.

When you are all done cleaning everything and fixing everything clear all the codes then see what happens from there.

Do you have an OBDII plug located inside the center console?
The 1995 year was a split year and it is possible you might have one.

 

Yes, I do. I recently took the flame trap out, and have not replaced it. But, I have been doing other work to the car. I have not yet received the flame trap kit, but I have needed to start the car. This is when I got the 'check engine' light. I took it to the nearest Autozone, and they put the OBD2 on it, and it said that the MAF sensor had an error in it. I told them that I was driving without a flame trap, and if this could be the cause. They said yes. They also said that when I get it, put it in, and drive it around for a couple of days, and if the light does not go out, than to come back. Is this good advice? And, about the other stuff, I'll get back to you on all of the error codes. Anyway, to reset it, unplug the battery for 15 minutes, than do the 4-1-5-1 trick on plug 7 of module A?

 

The 4-1-5-1 is only to reset the service light.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/
Follow the instructions on this site to clear the check engine light.
I may have posted it already but I forget if I did.

 

One more thing relating to the brakes. I recently replaced the whole front end, other than the inner tierods. I had an alignment, and now it drives very good, except when you suddenly stop, and then immediately after, accelerate. What happens is that it steers to the left when suddenly stopping, and then steers to the right when accelerating immediately after. What do you think is the problem? FYI; I haven't really slammed the brakes, and at really high speeds, but I've stopped 'pretty' suddenly from about 45mph.

 

You might have a calpier hanging up on the left front.It is odd to pull left while braking hard.
The pulling right might just be torque steer while accelerating.

 

The steer is very noticable. In fact, it is very noticable. Anyway, how do I fix a caliper that is 'hung up'?

 

Could it have something to do with the ABS? And, how do I clean the ABS sensors, and can the sensing wheel be cleaned, and how? Thanks!!!!

 

If the caliper is hanging up you will need to replace it.

To clean the sensors just remove them from the hub area and clean them really good. Then reinstall them.
I don't think the pull or the caliper problem has anything to do with the ABS issue.

 

Could it be the rear right, or are you fairly sure it's the front right?

 

If it pulls left when braking then it will be the left front.The rears will not make the car pull while braking.

 

Could it have anything to do with the brake disks being out of round by .005; that is, it's wobbling side to side .005 T.I.R. The spec says it should be within .0015, and the side to side should be only .0003, where mine is perfect, but it is not the same size from the outer diameter to the inner diameter... the inner diameter is bigger, on the driver side, by .015, and the passenger side is .035

 

It is possible I have seen customers complain about them being warped around the same readings.

 

Ya, but .005 is not a lot of runout. It's a very small number. And, on my other cars... take for example my Honda which as 272k, I have never turned, or replaced the rotors, and the car runs good. Granted, it does not have ABS, but it still has no problems.

 

I understand what you are saying.Out of all the dealers I have been to 80% of the rotors measure way below specs and are replaced for warpage.Most of them only being .005 or .006.
Volvo's are very touchy about warped rotors.The front ends of these cars are very sensitive.

 

The rotors on the Volvo are far from being under, in fact, they should still be good for a turning. Is this acceptable?

 

I would say yes go ahead and turn them again.