hi guys its me again don't know if you've seen my previous thread about the misfire problem I am having but I'm gettin kinda frustrated.. so far I've checked vaccum leaks/none that I know of, replaced cap n rotor/ oem Bosch, plugs oem Volvo pre Gapped, wires/bougicords, changed air filter, put new tb gasket on, just changed fuel filter today didn't seem to help... I have a egr flow fault code so i took it off cleaned it up already looked good when I took it off so did the hole in the manifold. I have evap system code don't know much about that... I have a mbc on right now car won't boost past 9psi for some reason. I've ran chevron techron fuel inj. Cleaner and seafoam. The car has a rough idle and smooths out a bit when giving gas... Today I played around with vac hoses because i think its odd how the line from the cbv goes to the egr valve. Unplugged that line didn't do anything so i unplugged the egr control valve connectors didn't do much. Then I switched that yellow line with the angled boot from the intake and put it on the egr valve, didn't do anything even tried connecting the hose from cbv to where that yellow line goes on the intake and it didn't do anything so i don't know what's going on Ii just ordered the ard white tune so i really want this misfire gone.. and now i figured out it won't boost past 9.5 psi no matter how much you tighten the controller( turbo logic mbc) so any suggestions would help at this point.. kinda confused on the vac lines with egr and cbv the Volvo diagram is pretty confusing... Car is 94 850 turbo wagon with " 115k" thanks...

 

Get a new evap canister purge valve to clear the code, get some silicone vacuum lines from ebay.

Also get silicone intercooler hoses from fcp, and upgrade your ignition coil to an msd blaster from ipd.

I still have slight stutter in 2nd gear b/w 4k-6k, I feel it is a boost leak somewhere. Also make sure your vacuum tree caps are good.

Remove the mbc and wait for the tune to come in the mail.

 

[QUOTE=Vmax;307788]Get a new evap canister purge valve to clear the code, get some silicone vacuum lines from ebay.

Also get silicone intercooler hoses from fcp, and upgrade your ignition coil to an msd blaster from ipd.

I still have slight stutter in 2nd gear b/w 4k-6k, I feel it is a boost leak somewhere. Also make sure your vacuum tree caps are good.

Remove the mbc and wait for the tune to come in the mail

Where is the evap canister purge valve located?

 

One thing I can say for certain is that if your car has a misfire....it will not build the amount of boost it should.
when I 1st got my car i had 2 cylinders misfiring really bad, and it wouldnt build more than 1-2 psi.
If there is misfire, then those cylinder's exhaust gases wont come out at the pressure needed to turn the turbo.
You must have a mild misfire if you can build 9psi. But its unwise to push the motor at 9psi if you have a misfire. You should baby the throttle till you get the misfire sorted out.
Wish I could be more helpful on the misfire issue, but the boost issue is most likely related to the misfire issue and I bet if you can get that sorted it will build high boost.

 

Now that you mention it vmaxx when i get under the car by the evap canister I can hear it hissing almost like there's a leak but felt around and didn't feel anything the big zip tie that holds the canister in place is broken so idk I'm just gonna get new lines and new purge valve and of course all the turbo silicone hoses..

 

What did your old plugs look like? You still have misfire codes on all 5 pots? You checked fuel pressure, and operation of the pressure regulator? Also check your coolant temp sensor operation, a bad one can cause more problems that you may imagine.

How old is your O2 sensor? I doubt a slow lambda signal alone could cause such a global problem (especially under WOT) but if the computer has learned some bad trims over time, it could be compounding your other problem(s).

Also, try unplugging your MAF and see if it acts the same or different.

 

When i got the car the plugs looked like they were dipped in baby powder I haven't checked the pessure yet but I've put about 400 miles on the Volvo plugs and they're pretty dark. I've unplugged the maf sensor before and it started idling pretty high so that's working... Wouldn't I throw a code for a coolant temp sensor? And where is the cts located exactly?

 

Your evap canister is located on the driver side, above the radiator fan shroud. Look under the removable flexible intake duct and you should see it.

now, i've searched google but can't find a clear answer..where's the coolant temp sensor?

 

I had this problem and could not figure it out. This is the post that solved my problem and may help you too. You have the symptoms.

"Posted 08 January 2012 - 08:06 PM
You got a boost leak... Ohhh yea... its a booost leak.... Time to find it... Go find your leak.... (Think about this in a really odd singing voice)

Seriously though, I think you got a boost leak maybe near the IAC who knows but regardless your maf is saying OMG SO MUCH FLOW! your engine is only seeing about 1/2 that flow... You get on boost and BOOOM way to much fuel for your actual airflow resulting in said misfire."

 

Just that it idled up is not necessarily an indicator that the MAF is working. On the other hand, if the car runs better with it unplugged, it does not necessarily mean that the MAF is bad (unless all other causes have been exhausted). What it WILL tell you, is whether or not the car runs better in Alpha-N mode. Which means that mechanically, your car is OK but the computer is getting some bad information from one or more management sensors for one reason or another. Whether that is a failed sensor or a bad vacuum/boost leak, it has not fallen into parameters that the computer designates as failed sensor, or lean/rich.

The coolant temp sensor is located on the thermostat housing. Left side of motor, as viewed from the front, just beside the intake port for Cyl 1. No it would not necessarily trigger a DTC if failed. It could read low or high but still fall within operational parameters.

 

Okay guys I think im gonna get the fcp silicone intercooler hose kit and buy a new coolant sensor there only like 60 bucks might as well for now I'm gonna try and find a boost leak clean maf and iac...

 

What he said.

The CTS is in the lower half of the thermostat housing just under the upper hose. You can see it at the bottom of the hose clamp in the picture.

 

Also do a compression test. If a cylinder has no compression, it will cause a miss.

 

Thanks for the clarification.