my 1st volvo...questions
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
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my 1st volvo...questions
Hi all!
I'd just like to start by saying what a great site!! I've been looking around for over an hour and have found sooooo much useful information!
So, I recently purchased a 95 850 glt non turbo(much to my chevy driving folks chagrin). It is my first volvo and I love it! I got it for 1,995 with 136,000 and some problems. I immediatley took it to avolvo mechanic and had them fix the things it needed to pass the vermont safety inspection. They fixed the neutral ignigition saftey switch (I think thats what it was called) the shiftter (the lock override was busted AND the shift wouldnt lock into park.) So all of that is 3Kbehind us and everything seems to be going good. I purchased a haynes manual andchanged the oil! I think I could manage the spark plugs too. So here is my question. I am moving from Vermont to Oregon in the next month and planning on driving. I am bringing the car back to the mechanic to have everything looked over prior to my 3,500 mile trip. Is there anything in particular that I should have looked at/done? I was thinking a tune up as Im not sure when the last one happend. I do know the timing belt was changedat 100K. Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks a BUNCH!
-Heidi
I'd just like to start by saying what a great site!! I've been looking around for over an hour and have found sooooo much useful information!
So, I recently purchased a 95 850 glt non turbo(much to my chevy driving folks chagrin). It is my first volvo and I love it! I got it for 1,995 with 136,000 and some problems. I immediatley took it to avolvo mechanic and had them fix the things it needed to pass the vermont safety inspection. They fixed the neutral ignigition saftey switch (I think thats what it was called) the shiftter (the lock override was busted AND the shift wouldnt lock into park.) So all of that is 3Kbehind us and everything seems to be going good. I purchased a haynes manual andchanged the oil! I think I could manage the spark plugs too. So here is my question. I am moving from Vermont to Oregon in the next month and planning on driving. I am bringing the car back to the mechanic to have everything looked over prior to my 3,500 mile trip. Is there anything in particular that I should have looked at/done? I was thinking a tune up as Im not sure when the last one happend. I do know the timing belt was changedat 100K. Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks a BUNCH!
-Heidi
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
RE: my 1st volvo...questions
I overhauled and tuned my 96 850 for the last month, and like you, I found this forum very helpful.
Anyways, this is what I looked at:
Coolant: make sure coolant is greenish or blueish, and it isn't black (means oil mixed with coolant, not a good thing)
Air filter: easy to check, replace if dusty.
Pollen/cabin filter: under the passenger side cowl, under the passenger side wiper tray. Most neglected item in cars, ever!
Flame trap/PCV: From everyone's posts, seems like these clog quite frequently on cars that are not maintained.
Spark plug wires and spark plugs: these degrade over time, make sure they're not frayed
Transmission fluid: make sure its at its proper level (check level with engine running, though) and that it is not completely black or burned off.
Brake fluid: it absorbs moisture, and moisture will corrode brake components.
Airbox thermosta/pre-heatert: make sure it works, and that it doesn't allow hot air all the time into the airbox, as this could ruin your mass airflow sensor.
Brake pads: rear brakes are neglected by many car owners, check to see if the pads are good and the rotors are not rusted.
With these things, you should be good. The rest are just minor things.
Anyways, this is what I looked at:
Coolant: make sure coolant is greenish or blueish, and it isn't black (means oil mixed with coolant, not a good thing)
Air filter: easy to check, replace if dusty.
Pollen/cabin filter: under the passenger side cowl, under the passenger side wiper tray. Most neglected item in cars, ever!
Flame trap/PCV: From everyone's posts, seems like these clog quite frequently on cars that are not maintained.
Spark plug wires and spark plugs: these degrade over time, make sure they're not frayed
Transmission fluid: make sure its at its proper level (check level with engine running, though) and that it is not completely black or burned off.
Brake fluid: it absorbs moisture, and moisture will corrode brake components.
Airbox thermosta/pre-heatert: make sure it works, and that it doesn't allow hot air all the time into the airbox, as this could ruin your mass airflow sensor.
Brake pads: rear brakes are neglected by many car owners, check to see if the pads are good and the rotors are not rusted.
With these things, you should be good. The rest are just minor things.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,181
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RE: my 1st volvo...questions
^He's got a good list right there. Just do a bunch of checks before you leave, and since you've got yoru oil changed already, you're good from that.
You will want to change everything that would probably need to be changed during the 3500 mile trip. Meaning:
-Oil (You got that done)
-Air Filter (If the current one hasn't been changed)
-Oil Filter (Which I assume was done along w/ the oil).
Other than that, it's really just a matter of checking all fluid levels. And it's kind of disturbing to me that the Timing belt was changed at 100,000 miles.
Do you know if that's all that was changed? Because you might want to change the fuel filter if that hasn't been done, and perhaps the spark plugs too. These items will definetely improve your gas mileage if they haven't been done.
It's hard to really say what you do and do not need without knowing more about the car (If you even know.). But imo, change the oil/oil filter/air filter (maybe) and definetely check all fluid levels, and you should be good to go and able to make the trip.
Whether or not you are optimizing gas mileage is another question..
Edit: Look at the Maintenance Sticky. JPN has several very informative posts which will give you a good idea of possible items which might need to be replaced/checked.
You will want to change everything that would probably need to be changed during the 3500 mile trip. Meaning:
-Oil (You got that done)
-Air Filter (If the current one hasn't been changed)
-Oil Filter (Which I assume was done along w/ the oil).
Other than that, it's really just a matter of checking all fluid levels. And it's kind of disturbing to me that the Timing belt was changed at 100,000 miles.
Do you know if that's all that was changed? Because you might want to change the fuel filter if that hasn't been done, and perhaps the spark plugs too. These items will definetely improve your gas mileage if they haven't been done.
It's hard to really say what you do and do not need without knowing more about the car (If you even know.). But imo, change the oil/oil filter/air filter (maybe) and definetely check all fluid levels, and you should be good to go and able to make the trip.
Whether or not you are optimizing gas mileage is another question..
Edit: Look at the Maintenance Sticky. JPN has several very informative posts which will give you a good idea of possible items which might need to be replaced/checked.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,340
Likes: 14
From: IPS, MA
RE: my 1st volvo...questions
Hello Heidi,
Greetings from Yokohama, Japan.
I'm a graduate of Green Mountain College in Poultney (Class of '97), about half hour from Rutland.
The 2 gentlemen have already covered what you need to do before the few thousand-mile trip, so I'll just copy & paste one of my posts:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
---COPY---
ROUTINE TUNE-UP ITEMS:
1. *Spark Plugs (Genuine Volvo, Bosch Platinum +4, Champion (NA: RC9YC or Bosch FR6DC), NGK Iridium, etc...).
2. Plug Wires (French Bougicord is the OEM, Bosch makes them as well but I went with the OEM).
3. Distributor Cap & Rotor (Bosch is the OEM).
4. Air Filter (MANN is the OEM).
5. Fuel Filter (Bosch is the OEM).
6. Pour a large bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner or equivalent into the fuel tank & fill up with fuel.
7. Clean/service PCV system (different for turbo/non-turbo).
8. Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt (Continental Tech is the OEM). Longer belt is recommended.
9. Tyre Rotation (watch out for the rotation direction arrow on the sidewall).
10. Exterior/Interior Light Bulbs.
11. Checking for Transmission Fluid Level & Condition (should be clear red and no burnt smell).
12. Checking for Power Steering Fluid Level.
13. Checking for Brake Fluid Level (replace once every 2-3 years for maximum safety).
14. Checking for Coolant Level (must not be at MAX mark when cold, it has to be about the middle between MAX & MIN). Should you decide to replace coolant, use high-quality coolant and avoid cheap/generic brands. I use Prestone, as Volvo genuine coolant was $20/gallon. 50/50 will suffice for most regions, but colder regions may require 55/45 or 60/40.
15. Checking for the Condition of Battery (Do multimeter test & S.G test).
16. Cleaning the throttle body (Not sure about the service interval).
The above replacement items have different intervals, some may need replacing soon, some can be deferred until later. Also, it may not be a bad idea to do the alignment, if there is no servicing record. However, if the car runs straight with the hands off the steering, it probably is ok and can be deferred until later.
Also, if the alternator is original, replace it NOW. Mine failed at 130,000 miles/12 years, and safety factor concerned, 100,000 miles/10 years is about the life for the original alternator. I recommend rebuilt Bosch with lifetime warranty (I got mine from Pep-Boys, about $220), or a new alternator. If the age of battery is unknown and the tests show poor results, I would replace the battery as well (I personally like Interstate Battery). Keep the original alternator for later emergency use.
SMOKE CHART:
Here's a quick chart for the colour of smoke from the tail pipe:
Blue: Burning engine oil.
White: Normal water vapour, or coolant is entering the combustion chamber (should have coolant odor).
Dark gray/Black: A/F mixture too rich, fuel/emissions control problem or time for a good tune-up. Also, diesel engines sometimes put out black smoke and it's normal for them.
Other colours: Improper additives in the fuel/oil, or just a poor quality fuel.
Lastly, the old adage "You get what you pay for" absolutely applies to maintaining Volvo, so when it comes to parts, you want to go with OEM or of higher quality. For complex problems, it pays to go to Volvo dealer/shops that specialise in Swedish/European cars, even though they charge more than other average town garages.
*Note on Spark Plugs:
Bosch Platinum +2 seems to have poor reputation, though I myself never had trouble with them. However, Bosch Platinum +4 and NGK Iridium seem to have excellent reputation. For turbo (B5234T), Champion RC7GYC is specified, whereas Bosch FR6DC/Champion RC9YC is specified for non-turbo (B5254S?). The easiest way is to buy genuine Volvo; Turbo $32 (approx)/NA $13 (approx).
Platinum plugs are pre-gapped andre-gapping is generally unnecessary. If re-gapped, the center electrode may be damaged. Never drop a plug onto the floor/ground. Platinum plugs do not require cleaning, as they are designed to self-clean, and are generally good for 60,000 miles/100,000kms. Upon installation, apply anti-seize compound on top few threads (closer to the hex), hand-tighten (extension bar may be used) until tight, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn for gasket-type or 1/8-1/16 turn for non-gasket type, or use a torque wrench to specified torque. Refer to service manual for specific procedure for your engine. Replace plugs only when the engine is cold.
Some selections at FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850tuneup.htm
---END OF COPY---
In addition to the gentlemen's advice, I would also do the following:
1. Check tyre pressure: It should be approx. 35 PSI at cold.
2. Check exterior light bulbs and replace if necessary.
3. Check the accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) to make sure there's no large cracks.
4. Have 2 quarts of engine oil in the trunk (10W-30, any name brand).
5. Same for coolant (antifreeze), 50/50 mix (any name brand).
6. Same for a small bottle of brake fluid; DOT-4 grade (any name brand).
7. Same for 1 quart of transmission fluid (Dexron-III/Mercon, any name brand). This fluid can also be used for power steering and is specified in the owner's manual as ATF.
I wish you have a safe trip to Oregon.
JPN
Greetings from Yokohama, Japan.
I'm a graduate of Green Mountain College in Poultney (Class of '97), about half hour from Rutland.
The 2 gentlemen have already covered what you need to do before the few thousand-mile trip, so I'll just copy & paste one of my posts:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
---COPY---
ROUTINE TUNE-UP ITEMS:
1. *Spark Plugs (Genuine Volvo, Bosch Platinum +4, Champion (NA: RC9YC or Bosch FR6DC), NGK Iridium, etc...).
2. Plug Wires (French Bougicord is the OEM, Bosch makes them as well but I went with the OEM).
3. Distributor Cap & Rotor (Bosch is the OEM).
4. Air Filter (MANN is the OEM).
5. Fuel Filter (Bosch is the OEM).
6. Pour a large bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner or equivalent into the fuel tank & fill up with fuel.
7. Clean/service PCV system (different for turbo/non-turbo).
8. Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt (Continental Tech is the OEM). Longer belt is recommended.
9. Tyre Rotation (watch out for the rotation direction arrow on the sidewall).
10. Exterior/Interior Light Bulbs.
11. Checking for Transmission Fluid Level & Condition (should be clear red and no burnt smell).
12. Checking for Power Steering Fluid Level.
13. Checking for Brake Fluid Level (replace once every 2-3 years for maximum safety).
14. Checking for Coolant Level (must not be at MAX mark when cold, it has to be about the middle between MAX & MIN). Should you decide to replace coolant, use high-quality coolant and avoid cheap/generic brands. I use Prestone, as Volvo genuine coolant was $20/gallon. 50/50 will suffice for most regions, but colder regions may require 55/45 or 60/40.
15. Checking for the Condition of Battery (Do multimeter test & S.G test).
16. Cleaning the throttle body (Not sure about the service interval).
The above replacement items have different intervals, some may need replacing soon, some can be deferred until later. Also, it may not be a bad idea to do the alignment, if there is no servicing record. However, if the car runs straight with the hands off the steering, it probably is ok and can be deferred until later.
Also, if the alternator is original, replace it NOW. Mine failed at 130,000 miles/12 years, and safety factor concerned, 100,000 miles/10 years is about the life for the original alternator. I recommend rebuilt Bosch with lifetime warranty (I got mine from Pep-Boys, about $220), or a new alternator. If the age of battery is unknown and the tests show poor results, I would replace the battery as well (I personally like Interstate Battery). Keep the original alternator for later emergency use.
SMOKE CHART:
Here's a quick chart for the colour of smoke from the tail pipe:
Blue: Burning engine oil.
White: Normal water vapour, or coolant is entering the combustion chamber (should have coolant odor).
Dark gray/Black: A/F mixture too rich, fuel/emissions control problem or time for a good tune-up. Also, diesel engines sometimes put out black smoke and it's normal for them.
Other colours: Improper additives in the fuel/oil, or just a poor quality fuel.
Lastly, the old adage "You get what you pay for" absolutely applies to maintaining Volvo, so when it comes to parts, you want to go with OEM or of higher quality. For complex problems, it pays to go to Volvo dealer/shops that specialise in Swedish/European cars, even though they charge more than other average town garages.
*Note on Spark Plugs:
Bosch Platinum +2 seems to have poor reputation, though I myself never had trouble with them. However, Bosch Platinum +4 and NGK Iridium seem to have excellent reputation. For turbo (B5234T), Champion RC7GYC is specified, whereas Bosch FR6DC/Champion RC9YC is specified for non-turbo (B5254S?). The easiest way is to buy genuine Volvo; Turbo $32 (approx)/NA $13 (approx).
Platinum plugs are pre-gapped andre-gapping is generally unnecessary. If re-gapped, the center electrode may be damaged. Never drop a plug onto the floor/ground. Platinum plugs do not require cleaning, as they are designed to self-clean, and are generally good for 60,000 miles/100,000kms. Upon installation, apply anti-seize compound on top few threads (closer to the hex), hand-tighten (extension bar may be used) until tight, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn for gasket-type or 1/8-1/16 turn for non-gasket type, or use a torque wrench to specified torque. Refer to service manual for specific procedure for your engine. Replace plugs only when the engine is cold.
Some selections at FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850tuneup.htm
---END OF COPY---
In addition to the gentlemen's advice, I would also do the following:
1. Check tyre pressure: It should be approx. 35 PSI at cold.
2. Check exterior light bulbs and replace if necessary.
3. Check the accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) to make sure there's no large cracks.
4. Have 2 quarts of engine oil in the trunk (10W-30, any name brand).
5. Same for coolant (antifreeze), 50/50 mix (any name brand).
6. Same for a small bottle of brake fluid; DOT-4 grade (any name brand).
7. Same for 1 quart of transmission fluid (Dexron-III/Mercon, any name brand). This fluid can also be used for power steering and is specified in the owner's manual as ATF.
I wish you have a safe trip to Oregon.
JPN
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
RE: my 1st volvo...questions
Thanks for the help everybody!!
I have checked the fluids, changed the plugs, wires and have a new distributor cap & rotor coming on monday!! I having a great time learning about my car. I am bringing it in to an independant volvo shop on tuesday for the rest of the tune up stuff and a road trip check.I did start a new post about some rattling i have noticed from my back wheels if anyone wants to check that out and pass on some advice. Thank you all soo much. This is a great forum!
I have checked the fluids, changed the plugs, wires and have a new distributor cap & rotor coming on monday!! I having a great time learning about my car. I am bringing it in to an independant volvo shop on tuesday for the rest of the tune up stuff and a road trip check.I did start a new post about some rattling i have noticed from my back wheels if anyone wants to check that out and pass on some advice. Thank you all soo much. This is a great forum!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,340
Likes: 14
From: IPS, MA
RE: my 1st volvo...questions
Hi Heidi,
I posted a reply on your noise problem, check it out.
This forum (850 forum) has been made a great place by about 10-15 regular members. And I must note that we do not receive a note of appreciation often (IMO, we receive a word of "Thanks for your help" only about 20-30% of the time). Anyway, I'm glad that you're finding the forum helpful.
Before you actually go to the shop, I would print out what I posted above, the list of routine service items and bring it with you to the shop. The more you learn about your car, the less chance of getting taken.
Good day!
JPN
I posted a reply on your noise problem, check it out.
This forum (850 forum) has been made a great place by about 10-15 regular members. And I must note that we do not receive a note of appreciation often (IMO, we receive a word of "Thanks for your help" only about 20-30% of the time). Anyway, I'm glad that you're finding the forum helpful.
Before you actually go to the shop, I would print out what I posted above, the list of routine service items and bring it with you to the shop. The more you learn about your car, the less chance of getting taken.
Good day!
JPN
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 396
Likes: 1
From:
RE: my 1st volvo...questions
If the car runs fine and does not throw any lights on the dash, I would not start changing things before the trip -I'd check fluids, brakes, air filter, but would not change plugs, wires, cap/rotor -don't fix what isn't broken, ... unless you have a few days to test -drive the car aftertune-up.
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