Im back in the volvo game, havent had one in a year!

Just bought a '94 850 NA wagon. 131k on it.

Just drove it 45 miles home...used 2.5-2.75 gallons of gas.

1st, the flex pipe between the manifold and the downpipe is cracked and so there is an exhause leak. This is before an O2 sensor so I would think that may be throwing the fuel mixture off some. The higher RPMs dont produce much power either.

I have a "used" part to fix the flex pipe.

Could that exhaust leak account for the poor fuel milage?

Another thing I noticed (and dont know if its correct) is the temp gauge never went above 1/4 (from the bottom)
I assume it should run at 1/2 (horizontal) or close to it.
I read the "fuel milage" sticky and noticed that a low engine temp could mean a temp sensor or something is bad...causing the motor to run rich? what should I look for to replace if it is indeed not getting upto proper temps?

Last, there is a odd sound from the driver front wheel well when I hit a bump. Its not a metal-on-metal sound...more of a plastic rubbing/scrpping sound.
The car steers well, doesnt pull, or have play. You dont "feel" the sound threw the steering wheel either.
What could this be? (havent had a chance to look for myself yet)

This car has low miles, but does show its age. Pealing paint, ripped seats, missing control ***** ect. But, I bought it for $800 with a new inspection sticker. Figured I cant go wrong for that price.
I was told the timing belt had been done, and plugs/wires had been done not that long ago.

any tips, things to check?

 

Well, read the NEW 850 OWNER thread and that should steer you right.

The car is rated to have 91+ octane in it so that may help with mileage.

If the person that did the tune up did not use the proper parts, parts that 850's like, it will cause poor mileage. OEM or better parts only.

Make sure you use a Volvo oil filter or Mann. I believe other filters cause upper head issues like ticking lifters and leaking valve stem seal when contribute to burnt valves.

Your first stop on a cold motor is alway the thermostat. Change it and see if the motor warms up faster and to the proper temp, 3 O'clock.

 

OK, T-stat 1st. right now the temp gauge reads more like 4:30.

Do you think the exhaust leak (being where it is) will effect performance alot?

The car also has a cold-start issue. It will start fine, but stall if you put it in to gear right away. You have to rev it upto 2k for a bit and then you can let it idle and it will go into gear without stalling.

This car had been run short distances for the past 4 years. I think it has a few small things it needs before the motor is back upto snuff, just need to figure out what those things are.

 

The noise in front end is most likley the wheel bearing. I have the same car and I had the exact same sound. I first thought it was the plastic inner fender that was rubbing on the wheel but it was'nt. It started after I went over a washboard gravel road. It would kind of come and go but was loud when I made a sweaping right turn on the highway which put a load on it. I figured it couldn't be anything else so I replaced it and that was it!
Regarding the exaust leak, I had that too in the same place. That alone did not affect my gas milage at all a d it was quite a bad leak. Ended up replacing my ex. Manifold and all is quiet. The wheel bearing can be difficult!
Mine was a total bixxh. The 4 reverse torx (or whatever they are) will be very difficult and rusted. If ur a DIY you'll need a good

 

Torch and a quality breaker bar with 16 feet of 2 inch pipe! (kidding of course.) Also a new thermostat as syggested. Also check the large flex intake hose for cracks/leaks. That will make it run rich but should also throw a code. Did u check for code's?

 

I have an OBDII reader but that wont work on a '94 right?

I will double check if the wheel noise is noted while turning...but I dont think it was.
I had the hood up last night and pushed down on the fender and can hear a "squeak" from the parts near the bolt that holds the strut (shock/spring) to the tower. It doesnt sound like what I hear when I hit a bumper, but maybe it sounds different when at speed hitting a bumper and not jsut me pushing down on the car by hand.

Is the manifold hard to change? From looking at it, it seems I cant get to everything from up top. The 4 bolts connecting the manifold to the downpipe face towards the floor so those I would have to have the car jacked up. Im also unsure how many bolts there are holding the heat shield on.

this one will sound lame, but where do I look for the T-stat housing?

 

Thermostat housing goes from the fat top radiator hose.

http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin...thermostat.htm

 

Common suspension problems include strut mount, spring seat, and sway bar end links.

 

the strut mount, is that the part with the bolt you can see from under the hood? that part squeks when you push down on the fender, compressing the suspension.

 

Small chance you have an OBDII port. If you do it's under the coin holder just above and to the left of the shifter.

Engine running cool will make the computer dump more fuel in so your mileage will suck. The cooler an engine runs the more fuel it will consume so it's in your best interest to get it up to operating temperature as fast as possible.

 

Ok, new T-stat in place and temp gauge still only getting to 4'o clock.
What temp should the T-stat open? The one I bought the guy said opens at 194 degrees.


Ill check on the obd port. If its an older obd, where is the port located?

The squeak on the strut tower (part under hood) seams like a rubber part. I thought I could tighten the large nut but it just spins? I guess you have to hold the inner shaft to tighten it?
The previous owner said the ball joints are all good and that the sway bar was done not long ago. He thinks its the strut mount's rubber has failed.

The cold start is an issue. I had to hold it at 2k rpms for about 30 seconds so I could shift into gear without stalling. Even then, when I got out of the driveway it stalled when I put in in forward. It will start right back up and once its gone a few hundred feet (or allowed to warm up some) isnt an issue.
I wish I had the money as I would just start replacing everything to get to stage 0. But I bought a $800 car for a reason, thats about all I had.

I have the parts to cure the nasty exhaust (it is loud when you get on it) and Im hoping that my cure some of the running issues...as the leak is before an O2 sensor. I would think this could cause some false readings.

 

There is a chance that someone pulled the needle off and put it back on in the wrong spot. Most of these t-stats are sold with c temps. I believe mine is a 90 c stat. It gets to 3 O'clock in less than 3 miles and stays there.

Strut mounts can be replaced. Spring seat is also there.

Cold start problem is likely an idle control valve issue.

 

is there a way to test the idel control valve?
Hate to be a pest, and I dont mind putting some money into the car, but I cant afford to replace parts that dont have to be replaced if you know what I mean. Is a ICV costly?
Im looking threw my garage as I thought I had a 850 manual from last year. I only found my 740 and s10 manuals tho. If I can find it, it will be easier to figure out some of these things on my own.

 

You can find used parts from eBay and folks like me that frequent salvage yards. You can try cleaning it. Google will be your friend.

Have you gone through the NEW 850 OWNER thread yet?

 

I glazed over it

I did a google search and saw how to try and clean the air idle control valve. Ill give that a shot friday.

 

The underhood diagnotic panel is next to the windshield washer fill tube.

Read this: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/read-codes-volvo-850

190 something on an NA sounds about right. Where does the needle sit when it's stone cold? Maybe someone took the cluster apart and didn't get the needles back on right. Cold engine should be just a bit below the white arch.

Strut mount is two parts. There is the rubber spring seat but also a bearing plate. Not sure the rubber would make the noise but the bearing plate can.

 

Cleaning how to with photos: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=47533
When you spray it with cleaner remember to keep the electric motor part up so the cleaner doesn't get into it and damage it's motor.

Could also be a coolant temperature sensor going bad that's either sending too much fuel in or too little. Would also show up as poor fuel mileage.
Coolant temp sensor is in the housing just below the thermostat.

 

While working on the car I found a few things today....

A nasty nest in the airbox. New filter needed for sure. Even a dead baby in there.

But of greater interest is this pipe which "should" connect to the part near it. But that part's nipple seems to have melted off.

What is this part, and what does it do? The hose wraps around and then goes to a metal line which leads under the plastic spark plug cover (the thing that says volvo on it)

Could this be part of my cold start stalling issue?

I did clean the AICV as the link said. I havent driven yet tho, as I descovered the nest right after and need to get a filter before I drive it again.

Thanx.

 

That would be the air injection shut off valve.

SAS Air Injection Valve

 

Forgive my newbness, but if I read that right then it controls my Idle Air Control Valve?
Is this part sitting where it should? It certainly looks like it got melted. Should it be mounted higher up on something?

will this have a big effect on how the motor runs, or just emissions?

Starting to think I bought a basket case
I hope I can find this part for less than $80. Ill have to check for a used one.

I pulled the part out 2 take more pics. I dont think its supposed to be all melted like that...LOL