How much force is required to reconnect those sliding disconnects for the fuel filter? They came off fairly easily, and I think I have one seated on the new filter, but I can't seem to get the other one to slide on as far and I don't trust it. I'm pushing it on there/twisting pretty hard too. For all I know it's fine, but it is not pushing onto the filter as far as the other side did. Any tips?

Thanks

 

What a pain. I actually broke the hose coming from the tank when I did mine the last time. I've always had trouble taking the hoses off, not putting them on. If I remember correctly the hose goes almost all the way to the filter, but I'm really not sure.

 

Well, it doesn't leak and seems secure, so I think it's OK. I let the fuel pump run for about 5 minutes before starting and driving the car and it seems fine. I get the feeling these little disconnects are kinda a PITA.

 

Sorry, a bit OT, but where'd you get your instructions to change the fuel filter?

And is it a hard job?

 

I used these directions I found with a search:

http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/fuelfilter.php

I also read some other posts from the search. It's not a hard job at all. With the rear passenger side of the car in the air it took me about 20 minutes to change. The only tools I used were a 12mm socket and a 17mm open endwrench to pry thefittings off, allthoughthat is optional since you might be ableto do it by hand.

 

This was copied from mathewsvolvo site:

The gas filter is located passenger side just forward of the rear axle. The band that holds the gas filter in place is a pinch band that has a nut welded/formed into it on the back/top side. A 12 mm bolt holds the band in place. The top of the band has a bracket that hold the return fuel line - this just pops off and the return fuel line can be reattached once the filter has been replaced. If your filter has never been replaced there is masking tape covering the pinch connections at both ends of the filter. Remove the masking tape. You need to put a pan under the old filter to catch any gas spillage - it will be minimal. Also the new filter comes with plastic caps on the ends of the new filter - you will want to use them to plug the old filter connectors so you need to take them off the new filter to have handy. Ther is a T off the inlet gas line that has a cap on it - remove the cap and press the needle in the T to relieve any pressure that is on the gas line - If it has been setting for an hour there will probably be very little if any pressure on the line. You can skip messing with the T and you will see about an ounce of fuel that will come out of the filter when you remove the hose.

To remove the connectors push the connector ring away from the filter housing. (I did the front first because I had more room). I used a paint can opener to help pry the hose away from the filter - it is shaped like a can opener but without a cutting edge - a large flat screwdriver would perform as well. It is a tight fit but once it starts to move it will come off. Once the hose is off use the plastic caps you took off the new filter to help hold the gas in the old filter. After removing both ends remove the holding band and place it on the new filter. The two lines will go back on easier than they came off, just push them onto the filters nipples. Put the 12 mm bolt back into the pinch band and reintall the return fuel line. Wipe any stray fluids and your done.

It took me 20 minutes the first time I did this. I believe I could do it in 5 now. Good Luck.

 

You are right, I just did mine and the out flow end did not go in all the way. However, when I exam the old filter, it has a small area very dirty which mean even the original one did not go in all the way.

 

I would simply suggest that you keep an eye on it if you are not sure, but as you said, if you leak tested it and all seems secure, then it most likely is!