New '96 850 - Needs Love
 

Hi Everyone,

Bought a 1996 850 N/A, AT Base a few days ago for $900. Was the sellers first car and in need of some love.

• 208,xxx Miles

• ABS Light (Module from midwest-abs.com in the future)

• Speedometer & Odometer are dead. (ABS Module and/or Gear)

• SRS Light ($125 Dealership to Diagnose)

• Check Engine Light (Wrote down OBD code, lost paper, whatever code the gas cap being loose may cause...) Replaced Gas Cap, same code.

• Slow Crank on Starting Car but Always Starts (Just disconnected glovebox light switch as glovebox door is beat and pops open.)

• Battery Test - 12.28V/390CCA - 660CCA Rated - 127 Degrees F

• Audio Issues - Front 2 Dash Speakers play 90% of the sound but at very low volume even with the aftermarket head unit pinned. Rear 2 Deck Speakers play but VERY low volume even max at the head unit. Stereo settings have no effect. Haven't pulled head unit yet.

• Sometimes hard shifts but nearly always when selecting reverse.

• Pulled Airbox Pre-Heat Hose off. Haven't gutted and capped the airbox yet.

• Horn Doesn't Work

• Entire Dash was put back together badly.

$1,600 of Work done at Volvo Dealership 2 Years Ago:

PCV System
Front Struts & Upper Mounts
Both Inner Tie Rods & Ball Joints
Alignment

Drives well given the price and mileage.

Just disconnected the glove-box light switch before writing this. Went to the car just now and it wont start. lol There's a clicking coming from the area of the shifter when cranking. Going to try jumping it when my buddy gets here.

• There are a few cracked up rubber elbow hoses around the engine. (See Photos)

• There is an electrical connector that's not connected to anything hanging near the front driver side engine bay. (See Photos, No idea what it's for.)

• Rubber hose with a screw driven into the end and disconnected (See Photos, No idea what it's for.)

• Otherwise going to start working on building it back up as it's my only car.

Any ideas/recommendations/information that you want to share are greatly appreciated. Had an '86 740 Turbo Brick and (2) 240 Wagons before. familiar with IPD,FCP Groton etc. and some of the common problems. Been reading many posts.

Cheers guys and am hyped to have a Volvo again!

Welcome aboard :)

Pics 4, 5, and 7 are all related to your headlight wipers (or lack thereof).

As for the horn issue, it could be something simple as a fuse, or it could be a wiring/ground issue. I have an extra set of factory horns laying around here somewhere that you are welcome to for cost of shipping if interested (provided I can find them). I replaced mine with a set of Hella Supertones and don't need them...

The same thing could be said for your slow starting issue. It seems these cars have some issues after years with their positive battery cable, which causes starting issues. I'd start by removing the cable from the battery and cleaning the terminals with a wire brush, then reseating it to see if that makes any difference.

As for the hard shifting, I'd suggest a drain and fill on the transmission using good quality fluid. I highly recommend not power flushing, especially given the miles and the unknown condition of the transmission internals (whether or not its been flushed in the past, etc). Check the condition of your fluid. If it looks/smells burnt, black/brown/light pink, etc change it. It should be dark red.

Your SRS light is probably related to your ABS light. Is your TRACS light on also? Dollars to donuts its all related to the ABS module. if you are handy with a soldering iron, you MAY be able to repair your module yourself (I did it on my 97 by following the guide posted HERE ). Its not the most enjoyable job, and my repair ended up with about half a tube of RTV around the edge of the box upon reassembly, but its a pretty easy job. Another option is to pull one from the junkyard and swap it in...

Speedo/Odo are most likely related to worn teeth on the gears in the cluster. Well documented fix HERE

As for the audio related issues, this thread HERE may shed some light on your problem. Volvo uses an odd wiring scheme for the speakers, and if they were replaced by speakers with a different ohm rating, using factory wiring, when the head unit was replaced, it could be causing problems with the volume.

A couple great resources I've found to round out the list:

RSPI's youtube channel

Volvotips.com

Matthews Volvo Site

eEuroParts.com

And of course, RockAuto.com ;)

Overall she seems like she's a good find for the price. Although those $900 cars tend to bite ya in the wallet once ya dig into them more (ask me how I know ;) LOL). With a bit of maintenance and catch up, she should last ya for many years to come :thumbup:


Hope this helps ya out a bit, and if ya have any questions feel free to ask. There's plenty of us here to help out. Good luck with everything, and once again welcome to the forum :)

QUICK NOTE: GUYS! There's a SICK 780 Bertone Turbo for sale here in Pinellas County 1989 Volvo 780 Bertone Turbo !!!! Would love to buy but can't afford right now.

Thank you for the warm welcome 97-850Wagen. My father was going through a light in 2008 and got hit head on at an offset by a guy running a red light in a small pickup truck. He was in my Mother's '92 240 Wagon. Was close by when he called and rolled on-scene just after it happened.

The entire front end was smashed back to the firewall it seemed. He was NOT wearing a seatbelt. Pulled up and other than being VERY dazed he was fine. Airbag deployed and aside from the powder covering his face, he walked away sore. He told me that he remembered lifting up and forward just before the airbag smacked him in the face, catching him.

Funny thing is, he was coming back with groceries. Went in the back seat and the dozen eggs, I kid you not, did not even break. I've SWORN by Volvo since seeing that.

Just jumped the car and it started. http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=13555 had one member who posted that leaving the glovebox light attached but without the bulb drew less than disconnecting it. Not sure if the switch is open or closed when depressed.

Drove for 30 min and the car started very slowly again after being shut down. Just plugged the switch back in behind the glovebox.

For the SRS light, going to order a module from midwest-abs.com for $89 shipped and send him the old one. Also looking at the horn contact kit from IPD.

The odometer gear/light kit from IPD is also on the list. Strange thing is, the speedometer started working while I was just driving just now then died again.

Thank you for the info on the battery cable, going to clean both tomorrow. And, THANK YOU for the link to the audio wiring issues. Wanted to G-Ride Clearwater Beach so bad today (I live in Pinellas County, FL), but no sounds. lol

Checked the horn fuse, looks okay, but going to buy a fist-full of fuses from IPD and replace everything.

MAN I miss that '86 740 Turbo Wagon! This 850 is an interim car for transportation that I plan to keep running well until I'm able to buy a proper XC70 or 740/940 Turbo Wagon. VOLVO FTW~! (I know, speaks volumes of my maturity level right lol)

LOL, no problem bud :) Good call on the horn contact kit, I forgot about that one being a common issue (haven't run into it yet myself). I think there is a relay for the horn too, you may want to check that as well...

Haven't experienced the glove box light issue, although now that I read that thread and think about it, my fuse 15 was blown when I bought the car...I replaced it but haven't had any issues with the battery that were related (I've had to wiggle the + side cable a few times but that brought things back to life immediately)...'

For the fuses, the evil corporate empire (Wal Mart) has the led ones you can get in a giant pack for about $15-$20 (they light up an LED when they blow). If I remember correctly they come in packs of 30 (black and yellow packaging) with all the major amp ratings. My 10 amp ones for 10 of them ran me about $5 IIRC. Makes diagnosing a lot easier, and its a bit cheaper/quicker than getting them shipped in.



I know how ya feel, these cars are tanks. My 97 N/A 2.4 855 is still running to this day (with a buddy of mine) and has well over 300k on it. Made a cross country trip from PA to Oregon via the scenic route (across the southwest and up the west coast). The one I'm currently driving (95 850T wagon) made its way cross country from PA to Oregon and back. I'd say they've both proven their worth :p

There's a pretty good aftermarket for these cars...And for a euro make they are quite easy to work on in my experience...with the right parts they can be a lot of fun and still be very reliable and durable. There's plenty of these 850's I've seen in the junkyard with over 300k miles on the odometer (and given their propensity for eating odometer gears I suspect even higher miles on said vehicles)...

My step dad's brother used to swear by Volvo's and the I5 engine for years before he passed away. Always used to say if you can find one with the 5 cyl in it, you'll have it for life. Boy was he right. He bought one from the scrapyard he worked at for $500, put another $500 into it, drove it for about 6-7 years with zero problems...Until he got t boned and the insurance company totaled it...Plus side though? He had full coverage and ended up making out with about $3500 more than what he paid originally... :D

I'll be making a trip to Harrys U Pull It in Hazelton PA and Pennsburg PA next weekend, if you are looking for anything in particular that you can't find, let me know and I can pull it and ship for actual cost. Last I was there they had 5-6 850's that were pretty much untouched (4 sedans and 2 wagons at Pennsburg, and about 20 at Hazelton).

One more thing to consider adding to your list of things for maintenance is your timing belt and water pump. If you are handy and comfortable doing the job yourself its not a bad idea and relatively cheap/easy (relatively...its well documented for the DIY). However if you are uncomfortable working on the timing of an interference engine (like me), expect to pay for about 5-6 hours labor plus parts (depending on your mechanic). It can be anywhere from $500 to $1200 to have one replaced in a shop.

Tools are the issue now. Used to have a nice Craftsman box and kit, but sold it to the aforementioned father a while back. Timing Belt/Water Pump is crucial and a priority.

Will check out the horn relay. Walmart fuses are solid recommendation but "Flosser" is so cool.

Learning more about the I5 and the 850/S70. Must say, for FWD, they're really cool. This 850 has some pickup on the "Sport" mode, winding out. Imagine the Turbo model at 50+ horsepower greater stock is a blast.

Insurance.... hahaha. Had 3 people rear end me, and 1 guy t-bone me over the years. I've started litigating my own damages and have had the best results that way. I write raps on the side, got a little bit about Insurance. Let me know if you're interested. lol

Oh man, thank you for the offer on the parts. If you find an entire dash or quality Tan front seats of leather I would be happy to work with you. You'd have to let me pay for your time + absolute cost atleast. Let me know what you find before you pull it and we'll talk.

I'm originally from California. If you enjoyed that west coast trip, check out Florida some time. It's a little bit like the wild west here... And I kinda like it...

Sounds like a fun project! Per your comment above, the turbo to me is pretty fast. You can get faster cars, but to me that is about all the front-wheel-drive horsepower that I want.

Junkyards will be full of whatever you need these days, so that is a plus. Interior stuff may be better shape if you find it farther north, ha ha.

My advice, if you're going to keep this car, get a means to read OBDII engine data (not codes) and enjoy that. Lots of guys use a scan gauge, I don't have one, but that is probably good. There is a great OBDII app for the android, but I am a iPhone guy, so I don't use that either.

Your electrical problem of course is one of the simpler ones. But somehow people still hate working on them. Sounds like the battery was not very good to begin with. You could invest in a battery charger, then go outside tonight when it's dark and see if you see any lights on.

Hi firebirdparts,

Torque steer is always fun, but some of these FWD cars are just monstrous with great times. Still personally prefer RWD.

Found that the positive cable being in bad shape will cause drain/starting issues. This one is corroded and broken. Just got back from Harbor Freight with some cheap tools and terminals. After the rain clears up going to tackle it. This thread http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=61747 is a great DIY Walkthrough.

Good call on the OBDII app. Running Debian Linux so looking for a connector/software with the laptop. Phone looks to work just as well.

The battery doesn't completely die, just wont crank the starter. Oh, and the horn plugs are disconnected and hanging. Maybe the guy was trying to track down parasitic drain and started unplugging accessories...

Will post the results of the terminal repair and if a new battery is also required.

I used a hacksaw to open up the ABS module box and resolder all joints and saved myself $200.

Also, about your screw-plugged hose, I just wanted to mention that the sticker on the bottom of the hood is not 100% complete, but it'll be the most accurate thing you'll find for that particular car. They vary.


It is possible to resolve lost hoses on the internet but not easy. I have a 96 N/A parts car that runs, so I should probably confirm that vacuum hose you pictured. Before I do that, I think that may have been running to the purge solenoid. If the purge system is disconnected, then that'll give you that "code that means you need a new gas cap."

Last time I needed an ABS box, I found a local yard who sold me the complete unit for $60...

Hey guys,

Posting late but here are the results of the positive terminal repair and new battery. Also replaced every fuse in the fusebox after dousing it with CRC QD Electrical Cleaner.

The trunk light's bulb was also burnt out and the switch in the on position. Pulled the cover and confirmed that the contacts are apart and in the off position.

Been starting and running fine but time will tell. Battery was $120. The wire jumble (6 or so wires feeding into a single connector) from the positive terminal is taped up and pulling the shroud back shows 1 of the wires having been joined with heat shrink around it. It appears that it feeds to the fuse box...

The negative terminal also looks to be in bad shape but will bo too short when cut that replacing the entire negative cable looks to be the most complete solution.

Will also check out the purge system; thanks for the tip. By the way, found the "code that means you need a new gas cap lol" It was P0301 EVAP. It's been staying off. Maybe the battery disconnected for so long plus the new gas cap reset and fixed things.

On the ABS Module, the speedometer has been sporadically working with the ABS light going off. Then, it will light back up and the speedometer will die. Corroded connections? Could just be on it's way out...

If you have a SRS light and the horn does not work you need to check the clock spring.

Speedo not working can be the ABS module. The $89 offer from Midwest ABS is hard to beat as it comes with a lifetime warranty. I do component level rework on coin op equipment PCBs and have been meaning to grab a used ABS module to open up and see how difficult it is to repair them. I imagine the hardest part will be getting the cover off cleanly so it can be resealed and not look like utter crap when you are done.

I got my first one from Midwest ABS, and it looks like factory - no cut marks, no stray sealant, clean , etc.

Fuses - easily tested with a multimeter. Good or bad. No in between. Also easily checked when removed by holding them up to the light. Do you see the filament? Yes? Then it's good. My scrap yards around me sometimes sell grab bags of fuses that I'm guessing they pull from some cars before they go to the crusher. I always take a 5 gallon bucket with me, and any hardware I have from pulling a part goes in the bucket. While they have prices for hardware, fasteners, etc they have always been willing to give them to me if I tell them they are from a part I am purchasing. I once put the fuses from 2 850s in the yard in the bucket, and the lady told me I could just have them.

Here's a neat trick to find your parasite: if you have a multimeter that measures amperage - set it to read amperage, and unhook your batteries ground cable. Put the meter between the battery ground post and the ground cable. Next, pull the fuses 1 at a time til the load goes down where it belongs.

Once you figure out which fuse took the load away, you just need to check the individual devices that fuse protects. So, if you have a fuse that does the glove box light and the horn, for example, and you pull it and the load goes away, it's either the glove box light or the horn.

Enjoy your 850, I enjoy both of mine greatly.

did you solve the horn issue? Not uncommon for the contacts to break at the wheel. Easy fix for $30 via Ebay with pics/vids online. Usually the problem of bad contacts leaves the horn on, so somebody could have disconnected the connectors into the horns - the horn fuse is shared with the wipers so it'd be easy to figure out if that is bad... To check the button contacts, disconnect the battery, unscrew from the back of the steering wheel (you need to have the wheel unlocked so you can turn to access ). If you see little plastic bits under the pad, those are the remains of broken button switch tabs...

Sorry guys, been slacking on updating the thread. Bought a 1989 780 Bertone Turbo yesterday so the 850 may have to go when the 780 gets to running. Here's the thread - https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...12/#post435090

eddie62 - thank you for the info; will check the clock spring when taking it into the dealership for the SRS light.

johnwartr - thanks man, going to order the module from them next week. Glad to hear that their workmanship is solid. The fuses are fine except for 2 empty slots that have no corresponding amperage rating for a fuse. Will post a pic. Thanks also for the parasitic drain test info. This is with the car off, right?

mt6127 - haven't fixed the horn yet; not even plugging it in to check. lol Been slacking. Saw that IPD has a horn contact kit. Will buy if that's the issue when opening up the steering wheel. Thank you for the info.

Yes, leave the car off while doing the drain test.

Got some shots of my 850 in this video for the 780 if anyone's interested.

The second on was just for fun.

Hey Guys,

In the process of parting the 780 to put money into the 850. Just scheduled an interview today for a pizza delivery job with one of the big chains. Looks like $500 give or take will get it to solid running condition. Will post parts list plan.

Last night and today, twice, when unlocking the driver door from the outside the anti-theft system activated, flashing the hazards and killing the battery. Each time getting back out and locking the door by key resets it. Mabe THATS why the guy had the horns disconnected!

Mine have always just worked, so I have never done the first thing to fix one. I don't like central locking on the 850. It's way too complex in my opinion, so I don't even want to think about the anti-theft. Immobilizer is another step worse than that.

Well, here is a list of things that the car needs; not necessarily in order. You guys think that it's worth fixing up? Been considering doing just enough to keep it running and saving for a nice Volvo. Probably wouldn't make it worth $2,000 after doing all of this.

$ 17.95 - Spark Plug Socket w/ Extension
$ 2.79 - E5 External Torx (ABS Module)
$ 4.95 - T5 Torx Driver
$ 4.95 - Offset Feeler Gauges
$ 11.95 - Oil Filter Grabber
$ 5.95 - Multipurpose Bone Tool
$ 32.95 - Serpentine Belt Tool
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel
$ 8.95 - Key Blank - OEM


$ 5.27 - Turtle Wax Sticker Removal Spray
$ 14.95 - Forever Black Trim Restoration
$ 10.99 - Griot's Engine Cleaner


$ 89.00 - ABS Module - Midwest ABS
$125.00 - SRS Light Reset/Diagnosis + Service Light Reset - Volvo Dealership


$ 2.00 - SAS Delete Modification


$ 27.90 - Trunk Lift Support Shock x 2
$ 18.95 - Cabin Air Filter - Carbon
$ 16.95 - Pollen Filter Adapter Kit


$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit
$ 19.43 - Taillamp Bulb Kit
$ .89 - Center Brake Light Bulb
$ 2.00 - Anti-Corrosion Battery Terminal Rings


$ 17.95 - Serpentine Auxillary Belt
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair


$ 17.95 - Shifter Knob Repair Kit
$ 9.95 - Seafoam Trans Tune


$ 15.95 - Mann Oil Filter + Washer x 3
$ 9.95 - Oil Cap Seal - HD Viton
$ .60 - Oil Dipstick Top O-Ring


$ 20.95 - Fuel Filter
$ 9.50 - Fuel Injector Seal Kit
$ 16.95 - Fuel Tank Vent Hose
$ 11.95 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner


$ 4.95 - Flame Trap Kit
$ 12.80 - Vacuum Hose - 5mm x 8 feet
$ 13.68 - Vacuum Elbow Kit
$ 10.24 - Vacuum Tree Manifold


$ 1.95 - Windshield Washer Fluid Check Valve


$ 4.95 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 11.95 - Air Filter
$ 2.49 - Throttle Body Gasket
$ 9.95 - CRC MAF Cleaner


$ 31.95 - Spark Plug Set - OEM
$ 59.95 - Spark Plug Wires - OEM
$ 36.95 - Distributor Cap - OEM
$ 22.95 - Distributor Rotor - OEM


$ 23.95 - Thermostat - OEM
$ 6.95 - Thermostat Housing Gasket - OEM
$ 3.78 - Thermostat Housing Bolt x 2
$ 9.95 - Redline Water Wetter


$ 26.95 - Upper Engine Stabilizer Mount - IPD
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount
$ 25.95 - Upper Engine Rear Torque Mount
$ 13.90 - Hood Cushion x 2

$946.05 TOTAL

Is the repair worth it? That's up to you.

Though, you can probably save 1/4 of the cost if you shop around. I would inspect the caps/rotor to see if they need to be replaced. I wouldn't replace wires unless they are bad.

No need for E5 trox if you send it to midwest.

https://www.midwest-abs.com/

Ah, I was under the impression that the E5 Torx was needed to remove/install the module from the car.

Will check FCPGROTON etc. The above is without shipping exclusively from IPD.

Will pull the cap and check. Wires and outside of cap look great. Maybe just the plugs... Kid I bought it from wasn't sure about maintenance history. Was his mom's car. Other than the dealer having done PCV, Steering Rack, Radiator, Water Pump, Timing Belt, All 4 corners suspension, and a few small things just about 2 years ago; which I got as a receipt and called the dealer.

Might just dump a couple hundred into it and then sell when I've delivered enough pizzas for a RWD/AWD Turbo Brick.

I'd say if that's all it needs its worth it. You could save well over half by going to the pick and pull and getting good used parts, as well as shopping around.

Hell, I'll send ya the brake light bulbs for way less than the ~$20 IPD is asking (and mine will be OE supplier Hella bulbs to boot). Same on the thermostat. Genuine Hella Behr made by Mahle in Germany (which is, AFAIK, OE Supplier) runs $11.47. Comes with gasket set, although if you are only replacing the thermostat the only thing you need is the O ring. As far as the Redline water wetter goes, maybe a bit overkill honestly. You could go another route though and get in touch with your local BG Products guy and pick up the cooling system package (cleaner, leak stop, and "water wetter" additive) for a few $ more. Same goes for the seafoam transtune additive. BG makes a product very similar called ATC for about the same price (or if dead set on Transtune, wal mart sells it locally here for about $7 a can).

As far as the SRS light reset, skip the $125 trip to the dealer for 10 min of work and 45 min of sitting around with your thumb up your nose and spend ~$50 for vida dice and a cable on ebay...Throw it on an old laptop from Craigslist ($75) and be able to work on the car (and any other Volvo's you may end up with) yourself for many years to come.


As far as the chemicals go (sticker remover etc): If you are taking stickers off the car, skip the chemical and use a razor blade then wipe down the area afterwards to remove the leftover glue residue with some goof off/acetone (non painted areas) or some 97% rubbing alcohol (safe on painted/non painted surfaces) and a lint free cloth. For the bumpers, shoot me a PM with your address and next time I get down to the shop I'll grab a bottle of Meds ReNu Finish and send it your way, no charge. I need to do mine anyhow and I'll probably be picking up a pro kit, so there will be plenty left over.

Check around for your filters. RockAuto seems to have the best price I've found for fuel filter, etc. As for the Mann oil filter, head to the local parts house and pick up a Purolator Boss filter. Manufactured by Mann here in the USA (Purolator is a partnership between Mann and Bosch). $12 or if you time it right you can get the complete oil change package (5 qt bottle and Boss filter) for $35. And before you order the cabin air filter and adapter, double check and make sure you don't already have one in the car...My 95 has it already and I almost ordered one.

For the major parts and high wear items, I'd highly recommend FCPEuro (especially for the engine mounts/torque struts/stage 0 items). Just ordered my lower right mount as well as the ProParts poly transmission dogbone late last night and they are already in state about 3 hours away with ETA of Friday. And with a lifetime replacement warranty, its worth paying a bit more $ for the items that wear frequently for that service alone. Buy it once and never have to "buy" it again (either send it back and wait for replacement or "buy" a new one and get refunded once the old one is exchanged back).

It is.

https://www.midwest-abs.com/

Looks like over half of that is preventive maintenance to me. I didn't add it all up. Which would mean yes, the car is well worth fixing. You can do PM anytime, even when it's not P any more.

Well, I think you’re looking at this the wrong way.

Any 20 year old car is going to ‘need’ a number of things to make it as nice as a brand new one on the lot. And those things will surely make your head spin when you add them up.

My suggestion - determine what the car really NEEDS. Do that. Drive the car for awhile and wait for something to NEED to be replaced.

So, things that I’d make a priority

Timing belt and water pump if they are due
Coolant hoses, if they are due
Check tires and brakes
Change the oil

Tool costs - a spark plug socket isn’t $17.95, and I have to think most people already have at least a couple. And if you don’t, they are like $3 at AutoZone or Harbor Freight!

E5 - comes with the ABS module, use and return and you don’t get charged for it. Easy peasy.

Bone tool - actually, a pretty useful tool and not out of reason on price to throw one into a box with an existing order.

Oil filter grabber? The OE filters don’t have any sort of hex on the end of them, and if you don’t over tighten them, they will come off by hand.

The serpentine tool is pricey if you buy the one from IPD. More economical choices would include a $17.99 shipped model off eBay that looks really nice (Volvo Serpentine Belt Tool Models After 1995 | eBay) or Robert’s version, (https://volvoforums.com/forum/sale-t...nsioner-66497/) for $10,

Funnels - do you have a Walmart nearby?

Key Blanks - the blank itself isn’t prohibitive, but keep in mind these are laser cut, and I don’t think most locksmiths can cut them for you. I believe this is a dealer item, and my dealer orders theirs direct from Volvo NA. I take them a key code or VIN, they order the key from their distributor, and it arrives in a day or two.

Engine cleaners, solvents, etc? Get what you need, and make do on the other stuff. Sticker removal spray? Well, if your car has those Moose stickers on it, I’d want them gone, too, but a hairdryer will remove the stickers and the adhesive can be cleaned up with lots of safe off the shelf stuff that you might already have - peanut butter, goo gone, etc. Do an internet search.

Midwest ABS is highly recommended. Fix it and forget it! he SRS light reset can be done yourself for less I believe.

Trunk shocks - cheap at the bone yard, or look on eBay.

Cabin air filter - go grab one at your local parts store, and if you don’t have the adapter (check first! - I have 2 97 850Rs, 1 came from the factory with, the other didn’t), hit the boneyard and get one. I think the last 2 I bought were $1 apiece at the junkyard.

Taillamp bulbs - again, a buck at the junkyard, or a couple bucks at a Walmart or the like. Now, the $20 kit from IPD may have something fancy and sexy like LEDs, and if so, I can see why it’s expensive - but IPD is pretty much the most expensive place I’ve found for most things Volvo.

And after owning many cars over the years, I’ve never had a need to run water wetter. I’m OK with you wanting to use it if it provides some sort of value to you - but I’d argue that you’d need/want that for any car you purchase/maintain.

I think it’s worth fixing up and enjoying - but maybe break it up as to what you NEED to do to keep it safely on the road - and then chip away at the other stuff as time goes on if you decide you enjoy the car and want to keep it.

I have a similar conundrum right now. I have been daily driving a 97 850R wagon for several years now. It’s been in my family since it was almost new (was a program car for a Volvo exec for almost a year before being sent to Mannheim Auctions). I am trying to tidy up a few bits and pieces thet are a little worn that are difficult to find. In the process, I bought another 97 850R (sedan) that I was going to use for some parts, and decided I didn’t want to kill it, so I bought an engine, and have been picking up parts.

But, I got to thinking, I’m putting a lot of dough into a sedan when it’s really wagons that I like. Am I investing in a project that won’t make me happy when I’m done? Should I go ahead and part it out, or sell it to someone whole and find a 2nd wagon?

Or, am I going to be happy having something to wrench on, which is really what I enjoy the most?

All valid points and I couldn't have said it any better myself. Picked out these items to add to:

Even cheaper option I've found for the serpentine belt, if you don't mind taking an extra 2 bolts out (assuming you have 1/2" drive sockets/ratchets): Buy a 1/2" drive to 3/4" drive adapter and use a breaker bar or long 1/2" drive ratchet. To get the access to use it you do have to remove your ECU/TCU and the box surrounding it and slide it out of the way about 3/4". From there you can wedge the 3/4" adapter into the hole on the tensioner and then put your breaker bar or ratchet into it and voila. The breaker bar may be a tight fit, but I do know for certain a ratchet will fit (I opted to use my 1/2" drive torque wrench since it gave a bit more leverage, but these tensioners dont take much once you get them to the point that the pin holes line up and you have them locked down. Don't ask me how I know...I had to learn the hard way after snapping one off at the pivot point)

As far as removing the stickers, personally I'd hesitate to use goo gone (not only for price reasons but I'd be cautious due to possible paint damage). One good option outside of rubbing alcohol (as I mentioned earlier) is the hair drier method John mentions. To get the rest of the adhesive off, you could also use a lint free cloth soaked in Zippo lighter fluid ($2 for a small can at Walmart).

It really does sound like you've got a good starting point and a car that with a bit of elbow grease will take you many places for many years. Hell, given the option, I'd gladly trade places with you and work on this car over the one I'm driving now...

Wow, thank you all for the reponses guys. Will respond individually. Until then, re-worked the parts list & listed in order of precedence.

p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } $ 12.95 - Torx Bit Set - IPD
$ 4.95 - Offset Feeler Gauges - IPD
$ 5.95 - Multipurpose Bone Tool - IPD
$ 8.95 - Key Blank - OEM - IPD


$ 9.99 - Tail Light Bulb Kit – Osram – FCP Euro


$ 2 .00 - SAS Delete Modification – Radio Shack


$ 31.72 -Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil - 10 Quarts - Amazon
$ 4.99 - Oil Filter – Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.19 - Oil Drain Plug Washer – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 0.29 - Oil Cap Seal – Elring – FCP Euro
$ 0.60 - Oil Dipstick Top O-Ring – IPD
$ 11.95 - Oil Filter Grabber - IPD


$ 11.09 - Air Filter - Mann – FCP Euro
$ 00.00 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 6.09 - CRC MAF Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 3.79 - CRC Throttle Body Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 5.39 - Throttle Body Gasket – Volvo – FCP Euro


$ 17.95 - Serpentine Auxiliary Belt – Contitech - IPD
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair
$ 32.95 - Serpentine Belt Tool – IPD


$ 17.95 - Shifter Knob Repair Kit - IPD


$ 20.95 - Fuel Filter – Bosch - IPD
$ 9.50 - Fuel Injector Seal Kit - IPD
$ 9.95 - Fuel Injector Spacer (x5) - Victor Reinz – IPD
$ 8.40 - Lower Fuel Injector Seal (x5) – Victor Reinz - IPD
$ 11.95 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner - IPD


$ 4.95 - Flame Trap Kit - IPD
$ 12.80 - Vacuum Hose - 5mm x 8 feet - IPD
$ 13.68 - Vacuum Elbow Kit - IPD
$ 10.24 - Vacuum Tree + O-ring – Volvo – IPD


$ 28.99 - Spark Plug Set – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 45.99 - Spark Plug Wires – Bougicord – FCP Euro
$ 33.95 - Distributor Cap – Bosch – FCP Euro
$ 21.99 - Distributor Rotor – Bosch – FCP Euro


$116.99 - Engine Mount Kit – Meyle/Febi/PPS – FCP Euro (Front, Right, Rear)
$ 26.95 - Upper Engine Stabilizer Mount – Polyurethane – IPD
$ 32.99 - Upper Engine Rear Torque Mount – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount – Hutchinson - IPD


$ 25.98 - G-05 50/50 Coolant – 1 Gal. (x2) - Zerex – Amazon
$ 9.95 - Redline Water Wetter - IPD
$ 10.95 - 87° Thermostat - Vernet - IPD
$ 6.95 - Thermostat Housing Gasket – OEM - IPD
$ 3.78 - Thermostat Housing Bolt (x2) - OEM – IPD


$ 69.33 - Mobil 1 3309 ATF Fluid – 12 Quarts (Transmission Drain & Fill) - Amazon
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel – IPD

$ 89.00 - ABS Module Exchange - Midwest ABS

$125.00 - SRS Light Reset/Diagnosis + Service Light Reset - Volvo Dealership


$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit – IPD

$995.34 Total on that.

Shoot me a PM with your mailing address, I'll save ya a couple $$$ and throw together a care package with those tail light bulbs and a few other small odds and ends :cool:

Only thing I have to add, seeing the reworked parts list:

1: Is your shifter button sticking/broken? If not, you could probably skip the repair kit for the foreseeable future. And if its broken/sticking, Hell I'll send ya my old knob free of charge...the leather isn't perfect, missing a few chunks but its functional. Or next time I head to the boneyard I can pull one for you no charge (they run $2-$3 at the pick and pull and take all of 2 hard yanks to get out)

2: I'd suggest doing the major stuff first: Filters/fluid changes (trans/coolant, etc)/plugs, wires, cap, rotor/PCV system/vacuum lines. At least then you can keep the car on the road and have peace of mind that the major PM items are addressed (i.e., the things that kill these cars or cause major headaches from what I have gathered). Then start looking at your serpentine belt/tensioner, see if it actually needs replacing. Same goes for the engine mounts. From what I recall, the actual engine mounts are more like a grease filled cushion, and hold up quite well...unless you see cracked rubber/grease everywhere from them, I wouldn't worry about them in the immediate future (I'm running original mounts still from 1995 with ~235k on them in a car thats spent all but 2 years of its life on the heavily salted and pothole ridden roads of PA for what its worth, no troubles). From what I gather, the ones that fail most often are the upper and lower torque struts and the lower right mount. For the fuel system, unless the injectors are leaking or you are having problems, I wouldn't be too concerned with replacing the seals and spacers. IMHO I'd take the money saved there and invest it in a fuel pump relay instead, and do the filter and a bottle of injector cleaner thru the system.

Oh, and TIMING BELT TIMING BELT TIMING BELT! Unless you have documented proof that it's been done within the service interval (5 years/75k iirc) plan to do that ASAP.


3: I'd highly recommend checking local for your fluids, rather than shopping Amazon, etc. If you follow the local ads for (insert favorite auto parts chain here) you'll likely find similar, if not better prices, with less waiting. Don't know about you, but my time is valuable and I don't have time to wait for things that important to ship from a warehouse half a world away...

4: Tools are never a bad investment. You'll get years of use out of them and they'll always pay for themselves in the long run. I'd honestly say skip the oil filter grabber though (9 times out of 10 they are useless anyhow). You should be able to remove the old filter by hand. If not, grab a long screwdriver and punch a hole thru the side of the old filter. From there, install the new one hand tight and voila.

5: For the SRS light reset, try finding a local indie mechanic that deals with Euro makes/Volvos in general. $ to donuts if he's worth his salt, he'll have VIDA DICE and can do it for much less than the stealership. My local guy resets them for $50-$60. Another local indie does them for free with a full VIDA diagnostic service ($75).

I can't say this is the right route to go, not familiar with the car and don't have the hands on time that you've had with it. Logically though it would make sense to come at it from a Stage 0 mentality before taking on any other larger tasks. I'm no expert (but I do play one sometimes on forums ;) ) but that would be my take on this. All things being what they are, I managed to trim at least $275 off your list, possibly more considering there's no shipping costs factored into any of this (and with IPD, shipping cost is going to negate any savings you see, unless you order more than $175 at a time, vs FCP who ships any order over $49 free)...

Whatever you decide to do though, have fun with it and you'll enjoy the car even more when its finally finished :) FWIW, I know how ya feel right now, wanting to go all in and do it right :p You should've seen my IPD cart last night while I was shopping for silicone turbo coolant hoses. If I had a credit card I'd probably be kicking myself right now...Swimming in parts, but eating dirt and rocks for the next year and a half ($1500 in "maintenance" parts is what I came up with, until common sense got the better of me and I trimmed it down to needs vs wants and came up with a reasonable $150 :eek: and even then I'm still trimming that down by shopping swedespeed forum for used parts)

p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } $287.63 TOTAL, less IPD Shipping. Came to my sense. Going to drive until a Turbo something or other is purchased soon. Negative ROI past his point or so. Still going to respond to everyone individually. Tomorrow. lol Thank you guys for the support. Look forward to posting about my new R model soon.





$ 9.99 - Tail Light Bulb Kit – Osram – FCP Euro


$ 3.18 - Windshield Washer Fluid – Prestone - Walmart

$ 2.00 - SAS Delete Modification – Radio Shack

$ 31.72 -Valvoline MaxLife 10W-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil - 10 Quarts - Amazon
$ 4.99 - Oil Filter – Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.19 - Oil Drain Plug Washer – Volvo – FCP Euro
$ 0.29 - Oil Cap Seal – Elring – FCP Euro

$ 11.09 - Air Filter - Mann – FCP Euro
$ 0.00 - Air Box Pre-Heat Gut
$ 6.09 - CRC MAF Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 3.79 - CRC Throttle Body Cleaner – FCP Euro
$ 5.39 - Throttle Body Gasket – Volvo – FCP Euro


$ 18.09 - Fuel Filter – Bosch – FCP Euro
$ 13.99 - Redline Fuel System Cleaner – O’Reilly Auto Parts

$ 15.49 - Serpentine Auxiliary Belt – Contitech – FCP Euro
$ 00.00 - A/C Clutch Shim Repair


$ 31.95 - Transmission Torque Mount – Hutchinson - IPD
$ 17.95 - Shifter Knob Repair Kit – IPD
$ 19.95 - Odometer Gear & Instrument Cluster Bulb Kit – IPD
$ 2.49 - Transmission Fluid Funnel – IPD


$ 89.00 - ABS Module Exchange - Midwest ABS