"new" bearings and piston rings
can someone give me advice on breaking in and seating these new parts on start up and first run
ive got some idea but i want to be absolutely sure about it - advice is well appreciated
i should have 2nd rebuild done on my birthday - the 29th
if all goes according to plan
and there are no S.N.A.F.U."s
p.s. can anyone tell me where i can get my ecu upgraded for stage 1

ive got some idea but i want to be absolutely sure about it - advice is well appreciated

i should have 2nd rebuild done on my birthday - the 29th

if all goes according to plan
and there are no S.N.A.F.U."s

p.s. can anyone tell me where i can get my ecu upgraded for stage 1
Last edited by radio16; Jan 23, 2010 at 05:42 PM.
Not much, if any, break in required for the bearings. Breaking in the rings is important. If you used regular steel rings with the proper grit hone, they will break in pretty well on their own by just driving normally.
If you used chrome rings and honed them with their proper grit cylinder hone, you need to start the engine and let it warm up one time to check for leaks and then take it on the road and run it full throttle from about 30mph up to 70mph and let off and coast back to 30mph and repeat at least 3 times. This will load the rings and allow them to seat. This procedure is good for steel rings as well but not as critical.
This break in should be done with a light weight conventional oil 5w-30 or 10w-30. I usually replace the oil and filter after the first drive and then switch over to synthetic after 500-1000 miles.
If you used chrome rings and honed them with their proper grit cylinder hone, you need to start the engine and let it warm up one time to check for leaks and then take it on the road and run it full throttle from about 30mph up to 70mph and let off and coast back to 30mph and repeat at least 3 times. This will load the rings and allow them to seat. This procedure is good for steel rings as well but not as critical.
This break in should be done with a light weight conventional oil 5w-30 or 10w-30. I usually replace the oil and filter after the first drive and then switch over to synthetic after 500-1000 miles.
Agree with all of the above. The important thing is to run it a few times and vary the throttle/load on the engine. ALso, run it at least 15 minutes each time to ensure the motor gets up to operating temperature.
thanks for the advice guys - did the honing - started with 220 grit rods and honed the lip down to zero - then ran 400 grit with wd-40 on all cyls for 4 min at 250 rpm with a battery powered drill - measured cyls --all good-- checked gap on all rings before install pretty much on the mark --my cyls are 2 different sizes-- 1=d,2=d,3=e,4=e,5=d-- im waiting on the rod ,intermediate and crank bearings -i also have all seals and rings coming - turbo is rebuilt and looks and feels brand new no play at all laterally or in and out - dead smooth - i cleaned it while it was broke apart with brillo pad and scalding water - ill have parts on the 27th i hope - itll give me a day and a half to get it assembled - then itll be my b-day
if it runs and runs well- ill be happy-- if not, does anyone want to buy a 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Platinum Edition?
i even got stupid and painted the oil pan back to its original yellow color -( there was yellow paint on it so i figured ill just put it back that way )lol- ive cleaned and cleaned annnnd cleaned(one can never be too clean) - id be hard pressed to find dirt anywhere on the engine now -at least i know when i reassemble it i wont have dirt issues - also replaced all the motor mounts - i would like to know if i can change the upper torque bar for a hydraulic torque rod ( ya know what i mean?)kind like a trunk piston but really hard
if it runs and runs well- ill be happy-- if not, does anyone want to buy a 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Platinum Edition?
i even got stupid and painted the oil pan back to its original yellow color -( there was yellow paint on it so i figured ill just put it back that way )lol- ive cleaned and cleaned annnnd cleaned(one can never be too clean) - id be hard pressed to find dirt anywhere on the engine now -at least i know when i reassemble it i wont have dirt issues - also replaced all the motor mounts - i would like to know if i can change the upper torque bar for a hydraulic torque rod ( ya know what i mean?)kind like a trunk piston but really hard
Last edited by radio16; Jan 26, 2010 at 05:25 PM.
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