So I picked up a 95 turbo wagon, and it has a few minor issues. One being that the climate control lights seem to work on and off, if you tap them sometimes they turn back on but usually it does what it wants, usually stays off. New bulbs maybe? Also it has a after market cd player and still has the stock stereo plugs, so I tries hooking up a stock stereo and it powers the red light for the security but that's it. It doesn't even say code. And none of the interior lights work, (dome lights) the door lights work but that's it. Anyone have any ideas?

 

the radio never DOES say "code" on it. you just have to put it in. If you dont have the code, you'll need the vin from the vehicle that the radio came out of.

As for the climate control....does it operate correctly? if it does, it sounds to me like there's a short in it somewhere thats screwing with the lighting. if it doesnt operate correctly, then it's probably a short that's screwing up everything. go find one at a junk yard.

interior lights are probably burned out. It's a common problem on these cars. New bulbs should take care of it. if not, check the fuses.

 

For interior lights check the dimmer (replace or jump the wires)

 

On my 94 wagon it said code. Also I tried entering the code and it didn't do anything. The climate control works fine, the lights are just on the fritz. Is there a special way to enter the code or do you just punch in the numbers? Also my e brake seems to do nothing at all.

 

The e-brake probably needs one of three things (in order of ease):
Tighten-up the hex nut in the arm rest;
Replace the brake pads;
Replace the e-brake cable

You can do a search for all of these, here or at MVS and you'll find plenty of write-ups.

If the lights are all flickering at the same time, you may just have a loose connector on the back of the unit. If not, it's pretty easy to open it up with a screwdriver and wiggle the bulbs into position.

If you're talking about a factory radio, it should display CODE once power is restored to the unit. If you have the red LED lit-up but no illumination on the rest of the H.U, you'll have to check the wire harness to make sure the crimps are solid. I just swapped my H.U. and found a very helpfull pin-out chart here or at MVS - or SweedSpeed, or VolvoSpeed, or the UK site - hmm, I seem to be muttering to myself...

 

On a worse note I noticed a oil leak coming from a area near the oil filter on the timing belt side of the motor towards the front. Any ideas? This sucks!

 

Could be a few different things. Best thing to do is clean it off really good with brake cleaner, then take it out and drive it. that way the oil leak will be pretty visible against clean surfaces. My guess would be a ripped hose on your PCV system or oil dipstick tube.

 

I fear it's the crank or cam seals or oil pump seal

 

if it's the front cam seals, you'll see oil all down the inside of the timing belt cover. Crank seal is EASY to do if you're doing the timing belt (which I would do anyway unless you KNOW when it was done) and the oil pump seals are inside the oil pan, and wouldnt leak externally. When I did my timing belt, I also replaced the cams with N/A cams and did the front and rear cam seals as well as the crank seal. Kinda a "while im already there" thing....

 

It didn't leak when I first got it, then I switched to synthetic 10-30 and now it leaks. Is there any way to undo this?

 

nope. other than fixing the leaks, anyway.

 

Damn. Should have stuck with Dino oil... Oh well. I'll pull it apart this weekend and see where it's leaking from. Thanks for all the input. Do you think this is a serious issue or should I just keep up on the oil level?

 

Oil leak: oil cooler lines are also known to leak and oil will show up on the location you are describing (around the oil filter). First I would make sure that the filter itself is screwed in correctly and is not leaking around the gasket. Secondly, you might want to remove the Timing Belt cover and check for leaks under the cam pulleys.

 

Lights on the Climate Control Unit. You should remove it and change the bulbs. If the CCU is working properly I don't think this is an issue with the connectors; it just might be the bulbs. Mine did the same thing; new bulbs lighted up everything nicely.

Radio: If you see CODE, you enter the code. If you see OFF, it means code was entered wrong 3 times in a row. You need to reset it by turning the unit on, having the Ignition on the I and leaving it for 2 hours. If you see nothing, either the display is bad or the entire unit is bad. This presupposes that all connections are tight in the back.

 

I pulled off the timing cover and it's not leaking from the cams. So does that leave the crank seal? The entire side is dry with the exception of the bottom where I can see the oil pooling up. I will have to pull off the wheel and inner fender tonight and Take a closer look at it. How hard is it to replace the crank seal? I hope it's somthing easier. And here I thought I was doing the car a favor by switching to synthetic.

 

You can check the crank seal as well, although that is not as simple/visible. Start with the "low hanging fruit on the tree" -- check if you filter is leaking. Next, check the cooler lines in the close vicinity. These are known to leak. They run from the oil thermostat (which is kinda next to the crank pulley) and snake towards the front and up onto the radiator.

 

henry: i kinda go the opposite of that. check at the top to see whats dry, then work my way down until i find something wet with oil.

 

I agree with you. He did check the Cam seals, and it don't appear that they are leaking. Yes, your method is the right way to go about it.

 

I did feel behind the cam gears, nothing, all down the side is dry, but on the subframe is where it's building up. I couldn't get the lower cover off because I was at work just messing with it on my lunch, tomorrow I'm off early and will try to get a better look at what's going on. I can't see anything directly leaking it just all pools up on the lower subframe and drips from there to the ground. I really am hoping it's nit tue crank seal. Also my car started to push oil out of the fill cap, which it never did prior to the oil change.

 

So the leak I coming from a oil line / banjo bolt from the turbo. I replaced the copper gaskets and re tightened it down and it now leaks more? I'm lost