New here, considering an 850 Wagon, Some questions
#1
New here, considering an 850 Wagon, Some questions
Hi everyone,
I've been looking a bit for a "beater" car, want pre OBD2, manual transmission, comfort, reliability "reasonable" economy, and a wagon. It happens that I work for the Volvo group (trucks), so I have a little soft spot in my heart for Volvo, and think they offer some things that meet my criteria (though I'll still end up jealous of my friend's S6 Avant that he got for $2200).
Anyway found one locally for $800, has a replacement engine, 5 speed 850 wagon. Assuming it's a base model as there's no badge other than 850 on the rear (would say turbo or GLT otherwise right?)
He does mention an odd problem, and that's what I'm here about. I'm pretty mechanically handy but just wanted to see if this issue seems like something that's easy/cheap to fix, or if it's going to be a money pit.
Any thoughts appreciated.
I've been looking a bit for a "beater" car, want pre OBD2, manual transmission, comfort, reliability "reasonable" economy, and a wagon. It happens that I work for the Volvo group (trucks), so I have a little soft spot in my heart for Volvo, and think they offer some things that meet my criteria (though I'll still end up jealous of my friend's S6 Avant that he got for $2200).
Anyway found one locally for $800, has a replacement engine, 5 speed 850 wagon. Assuming it's a base model as there's no badge other than 850 on the rear (would say turbo or GLT otherwise right?)
He does mention an odd problem, and that's what I'm here about. I'm pretty mechanically handy but just wanted to see if this issue seems like something that's easy/cheap to fix, or if it's going to be a money pit.
"120,000 miles on motor, 250,xxx on body.
Interior is in perfect shape. Body wise there is a small dent in the roof and paint chipped on the front bumper.
New cam sensor
New knock sensor
New T.P.S
New M.A.F
Tires are about 70%
The Bad: It needs an ignition switch. I replaced all the above because the car would not start, cranked fine drove it to charlotte and back no issues. I went to start it the next morning and nothing. It will turn over just not run, from what the dealer said it's either the lifters need to be pressurized (simple as just keep turning it over to build oil pressure) or it could be one of the sensors."
Interior is in perfect shape. Body wise there is a small dent in the roof and paint chipped on the front bumper.
New cam sensor
New knock sensor
New T.P.S
New M.A.F
Tires are about 70%
The Bad: It needs an ignition switch. I replaced all the above because the car would not start, cranked fine drove it to charlotte and back no issues. I went to start it the next morning and nothing. It will turn over just not run, from what the dealer said it's either the lifters need to be pressurized (simple as just keep turning it over to build oil pressure) or it could be one of the sensors."
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#13
OK, I got some more info out of him. Turns out it's an auto trans which means I'm not interested in it for myself, but might be interested in it for a fix & flip if I can get it under $800. It looks really clean for a '95.
Need to go back through these videos. I don't think a compression issue would be a total non-start like this.
I had a Jeep with a dead crank position sensor that would turn over and not start.
Has to be either no spark or no fuel, so I can take a timing light and check for spark.
Need to go back through these videos. I don't think a compression issue would be a total non-start like this.
I had a Jeep with a dead crank position sensor that would turn over and not start.
Has to be either no spark or no fuel, so I can take a timing light and check for spark.
#14
Boy watching these videos makes me want an 850, crazy easy to work on compared to some other things I've done. I've got a 2-post lift, and even the timing belt looks like a breeze.
Speaking of which, from these videos he is sort of implying that these are not an interference engine. Is that true? i.e. a broken timing belt may not mean a destroyed engine? That was the other thought I had.
Speaking of which, from these videos he is sort of implying that these are not an interference engine. Is that true? i.e. a broken timing belt may not mean a destroyed engine? That was the other thought I had.
#15
Boy watching these videos makes me want an 850, crazy easy to work on compared to some other things I've done. I've got a 2-post lift, and even the timing belt looks like a breeze.
Speaking of which, from these videos he is sort of implying that these are not an interference engine. Is that true? i.e. a broken timing belt may not mean a destroyed engine? That was the other thought I had.
Speaking of which, from these videos he is sort of implying that these are not an interference engine. Is that true? i.e. a broken timing belt may not mean a destroyed engine? That was the other thought I had.
Pics of your garage w/your lift please (so we can be envious).
No, interference engine; broken timing belt = bent valves (every time).
#16
+1
Interference engine; broken timing belt = bent valves (every time)
If it's a turbo it's almost always going to be an automatic. It's just the way they built them and shipped them to the US
Interference engine; broken timing belt = bent valves (every time)
If it's a turbo it's almost always going to be an automatic. It's just the way they built them and shipped them to the US
#18
+1
Interference engine; broken timing belt = bent valves (every time)
If it's a turbo it's almost always going to be an automatic. It's just the way they built them and shipped them to the US
Interference engine; broken timing belt = bent valves (every time)
If it's a turbo it's almost always going to be an automatic. It's just the way they built them and shipped them to the US
I don't think it's a turbo, wouldn't it have a badge on the back if it is?
#19
the oil coats the surface of the lobe creating a cushion. Before the oil circulates it has little cushion causing the noise between the lobe and the "lifter". Volvos don't actually have lifters, they have followers which ride on top of the valve spring and contact the cam from the bottom eliminating rocker arms. While I'm on this, I must point out the fact that I have never seen a hydraulic cam follower, usually you have to manually set valve lash with shims with followers. Someone with a Haynes manual or access to alldata should check to see if these cars need manual valve adjustment.
#20
Well, the oil under pressure is what takes up the slack and the spring is used to return the lifter to a neutral position. The spring isn't taking up the slack the pressure is so I'd have to go with it needing to be "pressurized" as the spring without oil pressure would leave way too much play in the valve train.
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