Guys,
Need to help. Everything is installed in its proper place.

However when I thread the new timing belts as per all sort of instructions, I can't get it over the tension pulley, or the water pump or the rear cam sprocket.

I have pulled tension on the belt once over the crankshaft, kept tension as I move the intake cam sprocket, then the exhaust cam sprocket, when I route then under the water pump, there is not enough belt left to get over the tension pulley. And yes the grenade pin is still in the tensioner.

Any ideas what is wrong?

 

I'd take a look at the way the tensioner arm is seated on the hydraulic part. Maybe it's not seated properly and it's sticking out too much.
Did you install the plastic disc correctly ??

 

OK, I have not read anything about this plastic disk. It did come with my kit from IPD, but no instructions. The pull pin is still in the tensioner.

I also didn't see any mention of this on Matthews site.

Can you explain what this is for? There also wasn't one on the old part.

Thanks for the assistance.

 

Are you the only guy NOT using my video?

More than likely you have put the belt on wrong at the crank. It has to be tucked under the dampener down there.

 

Go to 3:30 on the video.

 

I can't remember right now ........ senior moment.

I'd still check to make sure you have the tensioner arm sitting on it properly and if you can find that disc put it in there.

 

Robert,
Thanks for your video. I was using FCP's video.

Got to say that I had the belt inside the harmonic balancer so I know it was on the crank. I also pulled hard and made sure the teeth we in the groves. In doing all this I wind up short in length and not able to moved it over the tension roller once I wrap it around the water pump. I will tomorrow take the belt off and compare the length with the one I took off.

In my IT world can't tell you how many times we get a system board for a laptop and the box has the right part number but the board is not the same. That is what I am thinking, but need to compare the two be sure.

 

I have the new disk. Took out the tensioner and placed the disk on top of it. Also tried to place the belt on without the tensioner just to see and it still won't go on.

Like I just posted will compare the old and new belt tomorrow.

 

If the teeth are set in the crank, the cams, it may be a little tight. I had one that I couldn't get on. Trying to remember what I did. I think I pulled it 1/2 off the cams, then got it 1/2 on the tensioner roller. Then installed the hydraulic tensioner, pushed the belt on the cams a little more, then pulled the pin. After that I turned the crank bolt by hand and the belt slid on as it was turning. Not sure why some are tougher than others.

Make sure the tensioner roller has it's proper movement and is NOT jammed against the inside cover. It should move a little.

 

yea checked the roller and it moves. However the movement, as you know, is in the tighter direction. Looked at the blocked and the roller is located correctly. Thought perhaps it was rotated to high and would cause the issue. However when the tensioner was installed, it was at the correct position.

Recovered my old belt from the trash can so after work tomorrow I will get the new belt off and compare lengths.

thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated the help here, always. That is part of the reason I take on these special projects.

 

I've lived that nightmare with auto parts. Check, re-check still won't fit, check again, give up reorder and the "new" one is different but the same part number

 

I had the problem of being around the shield on the crank. It will act like it is on, but might be not. Anyways, I was certain I was on the crank and wasn't the first time I tried. Might be worth checking again. It slips over the tensioner pulley pretty easy when it is right. Let us know what you find.

 

Well RSPI had is correct, when you slip it past the Harmonic Balancer there was another thing to get the belt under. That took some working, but finally got past that piece and the belt feels nice and tight on the crank.

However I am about a 1/4 inch short in being able to get it over the tension roller. I am like almost over the last I/2 but I just can't flex, push or whatever to get to slide on the roller. Placed my halogen heat light (actually those work lights that give off allot of heat) for about a 1/2 hour and almost got it over the roller. Hands are tired. Will try again tomorrow after work.

Anyone else have a great ideas, like what tool could I use to flex the balance of the belt over the roller, etc.

Thanks all

 

If the belt is 1/2 on the roller I would turn the crank clockwise and it should walk on.

I wouldn't leave the belt hanging off of a roller with stress on it. It may damage the belt. :/

 

I have checked and the belt is on correctly around the crank and it just doesn't make it over the roller. I will have to defer this to Sat. and get another pair of hands to assist in walking it on like rspi says he has done in his past.

I will let you know my success then.

Now onto completing the PCV, RIP kit and Short intake, and the new IPD stainless exhaust system.

 

You said you were going to pull the belt from the trash and compare it to the new belt. How did that go ??

Who did you get the belt from and if it was IPD or FCP have you called them to tell them the saga and see if they have any ideas ??

Does the new belt have a Part # stamped on it and if so what is it ??

What is the engine number that was on the black upper belt cover you first took off trying to get to the T belt ??

 

So the belt is correct. Just tight to get back on. Was tight to come off. Need my neighbor car friend to come over on Sat to rotate crank like RSPI said.

 

You can rotate the crank yourself if you was able to get the belt on a little. I got it to go on a little then just turned the crank bolt myself and it walked on.

 

Just did my t belt last night, same issue. I removed the bottom bolt from the tensioner thing and loosened the upper bolt of the tensioner thing, this allowed the tensioner idler to pivot a little more to get the belt on. Pushed the tensioner back in place, put the bolt back in and tightened the other. Should work for ya.

 

When I changed the belt 1 month ago I also struggled to get the belt on, when I "arrived" at the tensioner the belt was always to "short", and on the right side way to loose.
In the end it helped puting the belt really tight on the right side while holding it on the other side in order to prevent it to skip a teeth or two and loosen up...

"Nice" was also fitting the new serpentine belt I could have sworn that the new one was shorter and ended up measuring old and new It fitted in the end but it was somehow worse than the timing belt...at least judging by the looks of my hands