Just a note about the plastic disc- it should be installed after the belt is on and the pin is removed from the tensioner. The purpose of the disc is to limit movement of the pulley should the hydraulic unit fail.

 

ES6T,
That is contrary to what others have said about the plastic disk.

Anyone care to comment?

 

The disk is there (as stated above by ES6T) to prevent a "disaster" should the tensioner loose his presure. The tension pulley will not have the place to move because of the plastic.

 

What is contrary? The installation or the purpose?

The installation doesn't make a difference in function I suppose. Just easier to pull the pin and then clip in the disc.

 

The installation.

How are you going to be able to slip that on after the belt is installed? Don't seem that there is room to push that on. Everything has told me to place the plastic on before installing the tensioner.

 

Mine doesn't even have one. It is just there in case of the tensioner failing in a worst cases scenario. If you cannot get the belt on with it on I would just remove the disk and then install it after the car has run a bit.

Another way I get slack out of my belt is to turn the crank CCW just a slight amount. Put the belt over the cams and crank accounting for that bit of slack you will have in the belt. Put a couple of zip ties around the cams and belt to keep it still. Then rotate the crank back CW to the timing mark to tighten the belt back up and hopefully everything is lined up properly. If not try again. Then you can drape around your water pump and tensioner. I would strongly recommend NOT trying anything to adjust the length of your timing belt. It is a certain length for a very specific reason. When you do everything right, these should just slip on. If it comes up short you have something wrong.

I typically install my tensioner components before I do the belt.

 

There's plenty of room, I've done it that way dozens of times.

 

The plastic is almost the last thing you do after puling the grenade pin.

 

CCW = Counter Clock Wise
CW = Clock Wise

I never put the plastic piece on prior to getting the belt on and pulling the pin. The plastic piece has the wedged slot in it and the locking tabs for that purpose. It also has a groove in it to fit down in the barrel of the tensioner rim (only suppose to go on one way). I'll double check my video but I'm pretty sure I did it that way in the video I linked to you. Did you watch that step?

 

I went back and checked my video and I did have that plastic retaining clip installed when I put the belt on. I usually don't do that and SAID to put it on AFTER everything else was on while explaining its purpose earlier in the video. I just forgot to take it back off after that "show and tell" segment. Again, I apologize for that and will add a foot note on those sections of the video.

 

If you want to see how that clips on check this video and go to 8:40.

 

Robert,
Thanks for clarify the step about the plastic clip.

I am going back out here shortly, removing the clip and if the belt is still tight my friend is coming over to help rotate the motor to guide it on.

 

OK, that worked and got the belt on.

Too Bad, crank was not in the correct position. Now I have to read how to reset up the cams and the crank to be in correct position.

I got a slight rotation and then it stopped. Piston and valve coming together.

Anyone with setup instructions, greatly appreciated to receive them.

Thanks

 

How far did you get it turned? I would probably turn it back, get the crank lined up, then turn the cams to where they need to be, then put the belt back on. If you are feeling resistance, pull the spark plugs so you wont get any compression back lash.

In my video I show that one of my cams moved and I turned it back. The crank rarely turns but the cams do because of valve spring pressure and compression.

 

Robert the Cams rotation was about 25% in each direction. No spark plugs in.

I do the crank was turned before the belt went on in error in both directions. Thought it was lined up correctly. However in watching your #2 video, I do not have the notch on the top and end of one of the teeth on the Crank. Unless it is somewhere else.

Planning on then the tensioner off, push the piston in to set the pin and rotate the crank to see if I can find the notch. Thinking if I do, the cams have rotated to much, so I would just line them back up with the marks on the timing cover and line up the crank.

I just don't know what rotation sequence I am on. The distributor cap is in the same position so I think that has not changed.

That is why I am going to looking for the instructions on how to line up the cams and the crank to be in the correct sequence, like I had removed the head.

Thanks

 

took the belt off and I get about a 75% crank rotation before I come up against a stop. I am certain there is a valve partially compressed and that is what I am hitting.

so now to figure how to set the cams at a top dead center position and time the crank also.

 

Then the timing marks are aligned, the motor is NOT at TDC. If you did NOT remove the cam sprockets this should NOT be hard. It is NOT easy to turn those cams far with the cam cover installed. Hope the links below help. Maybe you need to take and post some pictures.

Did you ever see a CRANK alignment mark? I have actually seen 3 on my cars. One on the crank sprocket and 2 on the harmonic balancer. On the harmonic balancer there is a dimple on the face of it that is usually around 6 o'clock when the timing is set. Then if you are looking down on the balancer with the belt installed, there is a notch on the edge on the balancer that lines up with the belt where it goes over the idler pulley (video 2:25).

http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin...ns/lifters.htm

Head Removal and Installation, Volvo 850 / S70 Turbo B5234T, B5254T, Head gasket replacement, valve replacement.

 

Robert,
I went looking for the notch on the crank. Don't see one. Decided to rotate the crank around to see if I could find one. Nothing. Will go look for a mark on the harmonic balancer after work.

Here is one of my thoughts, not sure if this is correct or not.

When I started to remove the original belt. I already had the plugs out. I rotated the engine and aligned up the cam marks. Looked at the crank and there was no notch. Watched the video from FCP ( sorry Robert - no offense) and it appeared to me the crank timing was set at valley and not on top of a tooth. So I proceeded to remove the belt and set the cams at this position.

Could it be that I took it apart with the crank not at the correct position? I am thinking that is why I can't rotate the crank a full rotation with the belt off. Also would be why I can't find the notch on the crank (perhaps).

If this is true, how would I go about fixing this?

 

Did you remove the belt BEFORE you aligned the timing? If so, that was a major mistake.

You can NOT turn the crank around if you DO NOT have the belt on with good timing. If you take a look at the instructions to do the head or lifters that I linked, the first picture you will see is of the top of the motor with the cam cover off. In that picture you can see the cams and the lobes on the cams. When the cover is installed the lobes push in on some valves and some are relieved. When valves are pressed they will protrude into the cylinder piston area, thus making it "interfere" with any piston that tries to rise into that space. So, the belt has to be on to turn the crank over.

 

Not sure if someone hasn't already said this, but the position for the timing mark is NOT TDC, it is simple a "safe spot" where all none of the pistons are in a position where you can interfere with valves.

Look at this photo.



The mark is the TINY little notch between the two teeth. Line it up with the tick mark. The notch is small and hard to see, but the red arrow is pointing at it. When this is lined up you can rotate your cams a full 360* and not hit anything. It is a "safe" zone. Line this up first. Then rotate your cams to match the top tick marks



Turn the crank slightly CCW, thread up the tight end of the belt, and then rotate your crank slightly CW back to the alignment mark to take the slack out of the tight side of the belt. You might have to loosen it again and go one tooth left or right on the cams to get it right, but when it's right it will be pretty obvious.

Also, note that the tick marks on the cam never line up PERFECTLY with the marks. If they seem just a wee bit off don't worry about it. Visualize what it would look like if they were a full tooth off (which you absolutely do NOT want) and you can tell if your in the right spot or not.

Good luck!