There's the car's full maintenance records. I'll have to pull up Volvo's service intervals and compare. (If you have the link, I would appreciate it) Based on what you see, do you suggest replacing anything?

Nice day today.. and I've recoverred from last night...HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

Going to do a little photoshoot.

 

Hello Mr. OvloV 13,

Here's my personal impression, after looking at the log.

As far as routine maintenance goes, the car was really lucky to have been owned by the previous owner, it is impeccable.

Now, here are the items I noticed & would replace asap:

1. Timing Belt & Peripheral Components (idler pulley, tensioner pulley, hydraulic tensioner damper)
As far as the mileage goes, it seems ok, but I noticed that it's been over 5 years since the last timing belt change. A dealer tech at Bay-13 at Volvospeed.com suggests that the belt be replaced at every 5 years, regardless of the mileage. I personally agree with him, because many rubber parts seem to give in after about 5 years. Now, water pump seems to be quite robust on Volvo's, so if it's not seeping coolant, it probably doesn't need replacing. I replaced mine since it did have a trace of coolant seepage (I put aHepu, a German mfg).

2. Suspension Components:
None of the suspension components seems to have been replaced, so the steering problem may be due to worn ball joints, tie-rod ends, sway-bar link rods, etc...If you could afford it, I would rebuild the front suspension except the sway-bar (stabilizer) and coil spring. But wait till you hear other people's opinions as well before making a decision, but if it were my car, I would rebuild the fronts, have an alignment and not worry about it for another 10 years/100,000 miles.

3. Battery:
This one I would replace right away. A battery usually lasts between 3 and 5 years, and yours seem overdue (Some maint-free batteries seem to last 7+ years).

Does the car have owner's guide? Even thoughmany drivers neglect this little booklet, it is full of useful & necessary info. If you don't have it, I suggest that you buy one at:

https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=shop.cart

I bought one for my 850, and it was $25 or so with shipping, not a bad investment for a car like yours.

I wish you the best of 2007 with new machine.


JPN

 

Hi JPN:

Thank you for taking the time to review the log and giving me suggestions.

I actually found a local mechanic that came highly recommended. He charges $100 for a full inspection, and $80 for a four wheel alignment. That sounds pretty reseasonable.. I think..I just don't have the time to tear the car apart, like I originally thought I would.

I agree with the three recommendations you posted. Plus, I'll probably replace all the hoses.

Check engine light came on today. Pulled the codes, came out "P0133" - O2 Sensor CKT Slow Response. Guess I'll need new sensors as well. The car just passed smog with flying colors, so I'm not too worried about it. If the light bothers me enough, maybe I'll just erase it.

Thanks again for everything.

 

Hello Mr. OvloV13,

I actually found a local mechanic that came highly recommended. He charges $100 for a full inspection, and $80 for a four wheel alignment. That sounds pretty reasonable..

Yep, is does sound reasonable. I only hope the technician knows how to calibrate the rear within the spec, as 850's rear set up is eccentric. I used Volvo stealership andgave up my $140. Volvo dealer uses laser-type alignment equipment, and even though one of the rear transverse arm had minor bend, the spec still fell within the factory setting and the car runs like new.

Make sure to receive the readout from the alignment machine, so you know if he did it right and the specs are within the factory settings. I also hope that the technician is fully-certified master ASE.

I wouldn't worry about the check engine light due to O2 sensor. O2 sensor for 850 is expensive, and some models have 2 of them, about $160 each (Bosch). And the fuel consumption seems to improve by a short margin with new sensor (s).

Good night,


JPN

 

Wow guys! Thanks for all the great info. The weather has been terrible in NM so I haven't had a chance to look at ANYTHING yet. I'm so mad. I hate snow. [:@]

I've a question about the alignments....Miatas are extremely sensitive to alignment numbers and if they are off by very small marginsor unequal from side to side by more than a portion of a fraction, the car handles like ***. What sort of tolerance on alignment should we look for on the 850 T5?

 

Hello Mr. Miatamon,

I like snow, as well as driving snow in general, EXCEPT when I work on cars.

Anyway, I'll list the printout from a Volvo dealer. I got this when I had my 850 aligned.

FRONT (L& R) SPECIFIED RANGES:

The numbers are in degrees:
Camber: -1.0 to 1.0
Caster: 2.3 to 4.3
Toe: 0.12 to 0.22
Cross camber: -1.0 to 1.0
Cross caster: -1.0 to 1.0
Total toe: 0.23 to 0.43

REAR (L&R) SPECIFIED RANGES:
Camber: -1.5 to -0.5
Toe: -0.06 to 0.13
Total toe: -0.11 to 0.25
Thrust angle: -0.25 to 0.25

I hope this gives you some ideas. One of the transverse control arms on the rear on my 850 was bent by 1/4-inch or so, but the spec still fell within the right range and no irregular tread wear or handling behaviour has been observed. I don't know how often people have alignment done, I usually have it done every 3 years/30,000 miles, unless if I hit something big or have had major work on the suspensions (this time I rebuilt the front suspension and that was the reason).

Good luck,


JPN

 

Great thread gentlemen. My sister's latest boyfriend just picked up a 120k mile '94 850. He had me look it over and it seems like a great car. Plus it has a 5 cylinder 20 valve just like my Audi .
Anyway, I told it will need a timing belt as there is no records with the car. Thanks for the great info and links here. Looks easy and I will check out Groton for parts although I have been using FAP99.com for my Audi parts at great prices.
I do have some comments on the comments made about the red car recently purchased by a lister...
You can not see what is causing your noise. You will have to get in there and pull and push on stuff to find the culprit. I would say it sounds like tie rods (again you will not be able to see anything).
I, myself, have trouble finding loose suspension components. It takes the right movement and a dicerning eye to find bad ball joints or bad tie rod ends sometimes. I would seek a private garage that specailizes in Swedish cars or at least imports and have them check it out. They will check it out free if you are going to have them do the work anyway.
You will likely have to pay to have these things done as most items will require an immediate alignment. Its kind of hard to install the stuff then take it to a shop for alignment (unless it is very close and you have an appointment set up for when you get the work done).
Oh, also, on the turbo thing. Warm up a bit, cool down after hard driving and run synthetic oil. Synthetic does not coke up nearly as easily as dino oil. Thisis important with the small, very hot, high speed turbo bearings.

Good luck,
Dave in PA

 

Mine got almost 180,000 miles, no problem w/ alternator so far.
I give it a shot of freon every summer -usually enough to last until next summer.

 

my 850 will not start is there a ignition module problem.

 

850 ran fine then i went costco and came out and it will not start. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!

 

igniton help.

 

wandering if this ignition problem iscommon in 850 s.

 

Start a post with a little more info and we can help you.

 

Hahaha. I do that too. My girlfriend lives in the connected neighborhood. My record is 25 feet from her mailbox....

 

Hey all. I'm new here and a long time VW guy. I'm interested in a 94 850 right now but completely unfamiliar with Volvo's. Although I love the styling of them i've never personally owned or driven one. The one inparticular i'm looking at seems great and i've been in contact with the current owner a lot. Here's what he's listing as work done recently. Is there anything else I should be concerned about or that you can see will need attention in the near future? As far asI know the car has 160,000 kms and power everything.

Turbo (upgrading purposes)
Turbo back exhaust (Throatier exhaust, 3" downpipe, 21/2" cat back)
Turbo Control Valve
2 o2 sensors
2 ball joints
2 outer tie rods
1 inner tie rod
PCV Box and lines
Timing belt
Waterpump
Tensioner
Idler
Serpentine Belt
Spark plugs
Wires + Rotor
Front + Rear camshaft seals
Transmission flush
Coolant flush
Reverse Intercooling Piping
Front bumper (Replaced with 850 R bumper)
Oil cooler lines
Oil cooler thermostat
Front Calipers x 2
Front Brake Lines x 2
Front Rotors
Front Pads
L/F Wheel bearing
L/F axle boot
Blower Motor
Blower motor resistor
****ADDED AS OF FEB 07/2008****
Rear Main Seal
Oil pan gasket (with volvo chemical gasket) and oil sump seals!

This car needs ATM:
Rear rotors + pads
D/S window regulator (it works, just needs to be guided up)

Thanks in advancefor any help or guidance.

Andrew

 

Pretty much looks like he replaced almost everything already.
If you want to know exactly how good of shape the car is in have it inspected by a Volvo specialist or Dealer.
This way you will know 100%.
But sounds like it is in pretty good shape.

 

thanks for the info. i'm just a bit nervous as i'm a life long VW guy so switching manufacturers and knowing nothing really about them is abit nerve racking.

 

Some additions:

- Distributor cap?
- A/C evaporator?
- ABS module (if the ABS is working and no warning light, you're good to go)?
- Trunk support pistons?
- Coolant line hoses (radiator hoses)?
- Instrument cluster back lights & odometer gear (not necessary unless they are shot)?
- Battery (avoid franchise, cheap batteries)?
- Do the tyres still have good amount of treads?
- Thermostat?

I would use full-synthetic oil for a turboed engine. It seems like your 850 has been maintained very well.


JPN

 

Just messaged the seller all those points. Let's see what he has to say.

Last message he sent me he said the the driver's door window regulator's shot. Window still goes up but it needs to be guided. Is this a large issue to fix? I can turn the wrenches myself but what kind of money am I looking at here for the new regulator?

he's also saying the p/l are not working due to the driver's door. it doesn't unlock all doors with the key. is this a large issue as well?

 

I just checked the price on the window regulator w/motor and was at $305, but if your window moves up with assistance, it probably is dirty/corroded track mechanism and you wouldn't need the regulator assy. The track assy (regulator rail) is at $21.00. I believe the track just needs to be cleaned, lubricated and if there's something loose, the fasteners need tightened. Moderator Tech would be able to give youmore accurateguidance.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850bodymechanical.htm

If you can turn wrenches, buy a Haynes manual and you should be able to take care of many problems by yourself. As to the power locks, I'm not sure what's causing the problem. If the lock assy needs replacement, the part is expensive at $155. You should be able to find a used unit or one at a junk yard. Or more likely the relay may be shot.


JPN

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