great info...thanks for the help. I'll have to pull the door apart if I get the car and take a deeper look

 

Are there any instructions on how to do the tune up using the parts listed at the front of this thread? - ir - I have a 1996 850 turbo and I want to replace the spark plugs, wires, Distributor Cap, fuel filter, etc. Are there any instructions on how to do this myself?

 

Hey now .

Try this.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/how...rkplugs850.php

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Well OvloV 13, your car seems to beok. Single thing which attracts me most in your pic is shape of the strut lower spring seat as my previously poster correctly expressed. Might be you altered the front struts for right and left as both of them looks totally different.

 

+1 JimKW,

Will a dealer do it for free? That's funny.[sm=icon_rofl.gif]

Dealer and free?!?!?

Isnt tht an oxymoron?

 

Your Question

1994 volvo 850 turbo, why my expansion tank coolant overflow

 

I have seen several new owners trip the alarm and not know it, leaving them stranded home and other places. Test your alarm to see if it's working properly.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...68/#post274566

 

I finally took the plunge and got my first Volvo. My car has 277,300 K on it but is in very good condition due to the servicing from the previous owner. The power antenna even works!

Saying that, I want to maintain this car as I have previous cars. I use syn oil religiously and it pays off.

2 questions for the long time Volvo owners:

1) The PCV system needs maintenance as described in this forum. My mechanic however, said that a small 1/16 hole drilled in the oil cap will negate any need for servicing. This makes sense to me, as there is no back pressure building up. Comments welcome.

2) I found a site for an American company that sells performance chips for various cars. They are claiming a 30 horsepower increase and a 4-7 MPG saving with their plug and play chip. I'd really like to hear about this from people that know. Thanks...see their link.

Ian

http://www.gfchips.com/volvo850series.aspx

 

On the 1997 850 I've just purchased, the belt needs to be done every 160K, so I'm not sure why someone here posted that it never needs to be done after that replacement time.

My question is, its also been 11 years since the belt was done at 160K and though the 277K is under the next K timeframe, is there a risk with a belt that old. Oh, and the car sat for a year in a driveway in our cold winter when the previous owner got ill.

Comments welcome.

Ian

 

Not sure where you got that info but that is way off. The timing belt interval is 70,000 miles or 112,000 kilometers. So, that belt is past due. Also at one time it suggested a belt replacement every 7 years. So, 11 years is way to long. I once purchased a car that had 55,000 miles and had an 11 year old belt on it and I wanted to have to car towed to the shop to have the belt replaced.
https://customers.volvocars.com/owne...50_801.htm#8:4

Get the belt done ASAP. You don't want to take that chance.

 

1. Don't think that's a good idea. These hoses get clogged and break all over the place. I have heard of people installing a catch can but not a simple hole in the cap. A hole in the cap may relieve pressure on top of the head but how about down at the lower cam? Seems like I short cut that I can not support.

2. As for the chip, they are probably right. If you have a turbo it will likely be fun and do better. There is a link here that also does tunes. Not sure of pricing but usually a tune will cost you gas. I have a R model and most people say they get worse gas mileage with just the 16 HP boost (1.5 psi). I'd say go for it if you can afford it and your car is turbo.

 

JPN,

Next time tell your women they can buy the stove and toaster, but leave YOUR car purchase to you>

Ian

 

Another item to add to the list of safety... If the car has a original spare tire, replace it. There is NOTHING good about a 15+ year old tire. I have a full size spare in all of our cars. (Most 15+ year old donut will not get you to the next block).

Also, (not sure if this is already in the thread) as soon as you can, make sure you can get your lug nuts loose. When I picked up the car that I have, I could not get the lug nuts loose. If I would have gotten a flat tire between Prov and Charlotte, I would have had to call a wrecker. The lug nuts were almost stuck on the car. My guess is that some nit-whit put them on with an air gun and DID NOT use anti-seize compond on them. I had to get my 550 lb nephew to help me get the lugs loose. I have seen this before on other cars. When I picked up my yellow sedan the lugs were on to tight. Bent the lug nut wrench getting them loose.

 

Everyone talks about the fact that there is no one who repairs the ABS module for the 1995 850...why not just buy a new one off eBay...they seem cheap enough?

 

There are several sources to have your ABS module repaired now.

 

Hello, I have a turbocharged 850 1997 and was wondering what would be the difference whitin 87, 89 or 91 octane gas. Thanks!

 

The short answer is that 91 octane has a better explosion than 87 does. When your motor is running, pressure is built up in each cylinder as it makes it's stroke which aids in the combustion. Some cars are engineered to have lower compression (pressure) than others, needing less of a fuel explosion.

As you know, we live in the world of "give less for more", so whatever can be watered down or deluted, will be. In the USA, by law all cars have to be able to run off of our "standard" 87 octane. Well, some cars are engineered to preform best with a certain octane fuels. If that specification is 91, the engineers have to make a way for the car to run on a lower grade of fuel or they will be in violation of the law and will be fined. So, in most cars it's the KNOCK sensor system.

In general, motors with a higher cylinder compression, say 9.0:1 and above, will require a higher octane fuel to preform as designed. If you use a lower octane fuel the knock system will adjust the engine preformance (usually down) to compensate for the lower grade fuel. So, instead of your car being able to produce 220 hp, it may only be capable of producing 190 hp because of the weaker fuel.

There is a potential down side to running low octane fuel, that is if the knock sensor system fails. If the system fails and you put a large load on the motor, like trying to go up a steep hill or hard accelertion, you can cause the motor to KNOCK, which is an improper fire/detonation. In extream conditions, this can damage the motor. I have also read where people complain about their cars loosing speed while going up a hill. Well, when the car is adjusting for the poor fuel, it can't do both, correct for the poor fuel and give the power to climb the hill.

The NA cars (naturally aspired = non-turbo) have a 10.5:1 compression ratio so it's recommended that 91 octane is used. The turbo models is 8.5:1, which is so close to 9 that it's also recommended for them (due to the load that the turbo puts on the motor causing them to rev up so fast).

You can google for more info but I hope this info helps.

 

how about ethanol fuels? do you guys get them there?

 

It's actually hard to find ethanol free fuel here. Just about all stations serve 10% ethanol mix. If you are able to find a place that has ethanol free gas, the price is usually 15% higher than 91+ octane.

 

excellent, i was planning on running our E10 here (rated at 95 octane) but wasn't sure if the car would like it, my old daily driver loved the stuff...
and it's about 3-4c cheaper then 91 which is a nice plus...