Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

no hot or cold air

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-28-2009, 10:34 AM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default no hot or cold air

I have just bought a 1993 850 glt.It has a few problems but the one I am trying to fix first is the air problem.

The problem is there is none.No hot or cold.I have tried to get some info from previous posts but as I have never really tried to do anything to my cars by myself I would really appreciate some advice.

Do I need to replace the blower motor or relay or something else.The ecc seems to be ok(lights flash when I start the car).

Thanks in advance for any help.

Great site.
 
  #2  
Old 05-28-2009, 10:58 AM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

if the two lights flash when you first start the car (aprox 20 seconds) that means that the ECC has a fault code.

if you want i can give you directions on how to check the fault codes. what year is the car?
 
  #3  
Old 05-28-2009, 11:16 AM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

thanks.The car is a 1993.
 
  #4  
Old 05-28-2009, 11:33 AM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think I managed to pull the correct code 1-3-5.Which comes up as engine coolant sensor.

I also have a coolant leak from somewhere.The coolant resevoir is half way between max and min and it seems to leak varying amounts of coolant.

Any ideas?
 
  #5  
Old 05-28-2009, 11:36 AM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

on the DTC control (front left in engine compartment)

plug pigtail jumper into B1

-Ignition on.
-Press button, and keep it pressed for about 1 second.
-Read off LED flashes.
If LED does not light up when pressing button, perform fault tracing for communication with the control module.
If display reads 1–1–1, no DTCs are stored.
If display shows a code other than 1–1–1:
-Display DTCs.
-Press button as above again to see if there is more than one DTC.
-Display all DTCs.
When the first DTC reappears, this means all DTCs have been displayed.

the DTC codes are in light flash's. so code 2-1-3 would read "FLASH FLASH -pause- FLASH -pause- FLASH FLASH FLASH"

report back with the codes
 
  #6  
Old 05-28-2009, 11:46 AM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks Tony for the help. code 1-3-5

I have found the engine temp sensor is hanging loose but I cant find where to put it back into.

I have a nasty feeling it was unplugged deliberatley by the previous owner.

Can you tell me where it goes please.

I know it is probably obvious but as I said i dont really have much knowledge about cars.
 

Last edited by fuctifano; 05-28-2009 at 11:50 AM.
  #7  
Old 05-28-2009, 12:18 PM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i think you are talking about the coolant temp sensor? if so the sensor is located in the thermostat housing. it should be a brass screw in style. if i remember correctly, if that is missing i believe coolant will **** out everywhere.

can you take a picture of what is missing?
 
  #8  
Old 05-28-2009, 12:29 PM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think I will have to make a visit to a garage as I am in over my head.

The piece that is unplugged is behind the drivers light.I thought it was the coolant sensor but there is no way it will reach over to the thermostat so I am not sure what it is.

Thanks again for the help.
 
  #9  
Old 05-28-2009, 01:59 PM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

is it a little black probe?
 
  #10  
Old 05-28-2009, 02:42 PM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

yes.Black plastic probe that connects to some electrical piece then on to wires.What is that for ?
 
  #11  
Old 05-28-2009, 02:49 PM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

that is for the temperature that you see on the dash.

you prolly just need a new coolant temp sensor. all together, or have and issue in your wiring (9 times outta 10 its the sensor)
 
  #12  
Old 05-28-2009, 03:54 PM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am going to take it to a mechanic tomorrow.Any rough idea how much he will charge for part and labour ?

So this could be to blame for both no hot/cold air and coolant leak problems.

Sorry for picking your brain but as I said I just bought the car pretty cheaply and I don't really want to be spening lots on it.

Thanks
 
  #13  
Old 05-28-2009, 05:52 PM
nonsense619's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bay Area,Cali-San Diego native
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

make sure you take it to a volvo specialist.alot of these shops dont kno jack sh*t when it comes to our cars and you are going to end up spending more $$$ than neccesary.
 
  #14  
Old 05-28-2009, 08:39 PM
bestharry's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

what I understand from above and conclude about the blower is that no matter the coolant sensor is good or bad or is connected or not, it will not stop the blower motor from working. So, for the first problem, I would probe the blower motor / fuse etc. rather then jumping on to anything else.
The coolant sensor error code could be a pending code from intermittent missing signal from the sensor.
 
  #15  
Old 05-29-2009, 07:58 AM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for all the advice.

What would be the best way to work out the problem.The blower fuse seems good (not blown).

I have removed the glove box etc to access the motor.Should I first check the relay.What order should I check things?
 
  #16  
Old 05-29-2009, 11:30 AM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

test to see if the motor is getting power (volt meter), also check the wires going to the motor (burnt).

to check for power to the motor, turn in key to the on position, turn the fan on, and probe the connector that plugs into the fan (keep the black lead on body ground and probe with the red lead.). if its on high (4) you should read 12 volts (or there abouts) on at least one pin.
 
  #17  
Old 05-29-2009, 12:52 PM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Just got back from mechanics.The rad has a leak so he gave me a quote for $500.Do any of the rad sealers work or am I just delaying the inevitable.

Funny thing is on my way to the garage the blower started to blow for the first time since I bought the car.Still no cold.It did not seem to powerful either.Could that mean it is some sort of loose connection maybe.Or is that a sign that the motor is on its way out.

Sorry for all the questions but my bank balance is in as bad a shape as my volvo so need to find as cheap a fix as poss.
 
  #18  
Old 05-29-2009, 01:58 PM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

it depends how bad your leak is. i mean its always worth a try right?

$500 sounds high for me i guess? where are you located? did that include installing it? are you able to do the work your self?

as far as the motor goes, its prolly on its way about, buts its worth checking into more before you go and spend the money on a new one.
 
  #19  
Old 05-29-2009, 02:07 PM
fuctifano's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am in the twin cities area.$500 is for parts and labour.I really have no idea about cars(you probably guessed that) so unless it is really straight forward then it is my only option.

I will give replacing the motor a try I think.

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

I wish I could return the favour of advice. unless you need to know anything about golf or whisky.
 
  #20  
Old 05-29-2009, 02:24 PM
850tony's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

if you can swing the $500, i would just have him do it. before he does the work though, ask to look where it is, and be sure it is indeed a leak and not a radiator hose or something (might try to just take ur money).

how much is the motor? might want to trouble shoot a little bit and post back what you find so we could possibly help ya out.

i would say stop by and i could take a look at it for you, but you are about 6 hours away hahaha.
 


Quick Reply: no hot or cold air



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:22 PM.