Hello everyone, I’ve used the search fetcher but nothing seems to point to my problem, so here it goes.
I was driving my car, going 65 mph when all of a sudden the engine turned off, like the key was turned off. Pulled off the road and opened the hood to find my water hose going to heater core came out of the core and I lost all the water out of the car, I had no indications of it overheating or that I was losing water.
I can crank the engine over and it spins just fine, although with no compression, so I know that it is not seized up. Knowing that I ruined the engine, I located one from a wrecking yard and just replaced the original one with a 1999 V70 engine. I have everything all connected and ready to go, but I just can’t get any spark out of the coil. Also as a side note, when I turn on the ignition switch all of my dash lights are illuminated like they should, however they all stay on? Could I have tripped a safety switch or a security switch somewhere on the car?
I feel like I’m right there but that I’m missing something simple. Thanks in advance, Kent

 

The lights on the dash will stay on when the serpentine belt is not installed (or the alternator is not presently doing anything).

There are a few key components that make the car spark. Cam sensor, crank sensor, ECU and coil. I am not familiar enough with the 99 engine to say what it has or doesn't have but you need those components on your 95. You've got some testing ahead of you. Sounds like all the problems are electrical. Does the coil even have 12v's going to it?

 

boxpin, thanks for the reply, all the sensors from the 95 engine are on the 99. I agree that is electrical, I have 12v at the coil and tested the crank sensor as well as the cam sensor, following the "How to" Cam test procedure found on this site. The crank showed 240 ohms and the Cam shoed me 0v than 5v as I bumped the engine over. The only anomaly I have is "the Blue wire" shoes me ~12v where the testing procedure says I should see .7-1.3v.
As a side note I have the Serpentine belt on the car. If you or anyone has some other things to check, please by all means, this is killing me trying to figure this out, Kent

 

Anyone have some ideas for me, I'm hoping to check the cam & crank sensors again tomorrow, if the weather cooperates.

 

"The only anomaly I have is "the Blue wire" shoes me ~12v where the testing procedure says I should see .7-1.3v."

If that is true than it sounds like something is internally shorted and instead of part (.7 to 1.3) of a 12V signal being returned you just have full battery voltage. If it's a sensor you moved over maybe it's still wet and that's why it's shorted, that's why the original engine died and your replacement won't start. That's just a guess but it would make sense.
And you have made sure your meter is reading 12 and not 1.2 ?
What is "the blue wire" attached to?

 

Kiss, thanks for the ideas and you have a point about a sensor, but which one? The blue wire I'm refering to is part of the coil, one is red and the other is blue. Oh and my meter is set to 20v, so I feel that I'm reading 12v not 1.2, however I think Im goint to re test all my sensors just to make sure I have the right values. Kent.

 

Did your '95 have a EGR? Does your '99 motor have it? You make this sound simple but it's far from simple unless you just swapped the top or bottom, can't remember which one doesn't require a bunch of stuff to make it work.

 

I wish I could tell you which one but that's the problem. That and I wish you lived closer as I have a slightly used Module/coil up for sale if you needed it.
If you go through the diag again and you have that excessive voltage then it might be the ignition control module that's shorted out. Is that blue wire the one between the coil and the module ??

In case it is moisture, if you're not doing it already I'd leave the hood up as much as possible and try to let the sun bake it a bit.

 

rspi, I have swapped the entire engine.

My 95 does have EGR and so does the 99 now, I swapped the exhaust and Intake from the original engine to this engine. I have also swapped all of the sensors from the 95 over to the 99 and I don't have anything left over from the 95 engine nor do I have an extra sensor on the 99 engine.
I assumend that as long as all the sensors and cam, crank & fuel were hooked up I could just swap engines, am I wrong? As a side note both engines are from cars with "55" as the 5th & 6th number in the vin as well as B5254S stamping on the block.

Kiss, thanks you for the offer, but I already put a new coil on the car with no help, I'm feeling like its before the coil and not sending a signal to tell the coil to fire.

 

Maybe you have some other problem. Does the new motor have compression? Do you think there is a chance you have a bad ECU or something?

 

Thats the thing, I dont know how to check the ECU, as for compression, dont know the numbers, but when the plugs were in it was very difficult to turn over by hand. If I could get spark out of the coil I'm feeling that it will start. I have fuel at the rail but no spark to the distributor. Please keep the ideas coming, I know with help from all of you I can get this car running, Kent.

 

Ok, I found this under the “Helpful Information” Sticky and how to check cam sensor.
IGNITION CHECKS
BOSCH EZ129K
1) Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap. Put coil wire
next to ground and operate starter motor. If spark is present, check
distributor rotor and cap. If spark is not present, go to next step.
I have no Spark
2) Connect voltmeter between ignition coil connector terminal
No. 15 (Red wire) and ground. Turn ignition on. If battery voltage is
not present, check voltage supply to ignition coil. If battery voltage
is present, turn ignition off and go to next step.
I have 12.6v
3) Connect voltmeter between ignition coil terminal No. 1
(Blue wire) and ground. Operate starter motor. If about .7-1.3 volts New/old coil has 11.01V. What would cause this?
are present, repeat test using new ignition coil. If about .7-1.3
volts are not present, turn ignition off and go to next step.
4) Disconnect engine speed sensor connector located close to
flywheel. Connect an ohmmeter between sensor terminals. If resistance
is about 200-400 ohms, go to next step and check Camshaft Position
Sensor (CMP) signal. If resistance is not about 200-400 ohms, replace
sensor. I read 284 ohms
NOTE: Engine speed sensor is also known as Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS) or impulse sensor.
5) Remove intake hose. Bend aside rubber sleeve on CMP
connector. Connect voltmeter between connector terminal No. 2 and
ground. See Fig. 4. Operate starter motor. If voltage reading varies
between 0-5 volts, go to step 7). If voltage reading does not vary
between 0-5 volts, go to next step. I read 0-5-0v.
6) Connect voltmeter between CMP connector terminal No. 3 and
ground. Turn ignition on. About 10 volts should be present. I have 11.3v
Turn ignition off. Connect an ohmmeter between CMP connector terminal No. 1
and ground. Ohmmeter should show about zero ohms. I read 1.0 w/ignition off & 22.0 w/ignition on? If voltage supply and ground are okay, repeat test using new CMP. If voltage supply and
ground are not okay, reconnect intake hose and go to step 9).
7) If voltage reading varied between 0-5 volts in step 5),
disconnect power stage connector at ignition coil. Bend back rubber
sleeve on connector. Check ground supply by connecting ohmmeter
between connector terminal No. 1 and ground. See Fig. 5. Ohmmeter
should indicate zero ohms. I have 1.0 ohms w/meter set @200.
Check voltage supply by connecting voltmeter between terminal No. 3 and ground. Turn ignition on. Battery voltage should be present. I read 12.26v.
8) Check power stage control signal by connecting voltmeter
between terminal No. 4 and ground. Operate starter motor. Voltmeter
should indicate .7-1.3 volts. Both old/new read.28v.
If ground, voltage and control signal
is okay, repeat test using new power stage. If ground connection and
voltage are faulty, check wiring. If control signal is not present, go
to next step and check ECU input and output signals.How do I check this?

I hope everyone can understand what my values were; I know it may seem confusing so ask if you don’t understand what I am trying to say. J Kent

 

It would be nice if someone knew if that 1 ohm you're reading in step 7 is enough to give you a problem. I think it might be. I'd try to figure out where that wire grounds to and clean and tighten that connection to see if you can get that resistance down to zero. Not sure about your meter but you should also use the lowest setting possible on your final read to improve accuracy. When you're not sure what amount you're reading you use the highest scale but once you know where you are at the smaller reading setting will usually give you better accuracy. For sure on an analog meter not so sure on a digital.

That one ohm may not sound like much but it could be what is then affecting the reading in step 8 lowering the voltage. If you should have zero ohms in step seven but you have one ohm it will cause you to have a voltage drop and that may be why you are coming up with .28 V where the test indicates it should be .7-1.3 V

"If ground, voltage and control signal
is okay, repeat test using new power stage."
If GROUND (1 ohm) is NOT ok what does the diagnostic tree tell you to do?
Sounds like it's not the power stage or at least I'd try to get that resistance to zero and retest step eight. If you can't get terminal 1 down to zero resistance you can cheat and jump it to a good solid ground and retest terminal 4 to see if you then have 0.7-1.3 volts. If you do than you'd know it was the resistance on the terminal No. 1 circuit that is giving you a problem.

Your No. 1 "ground" and No. 4 "control signal" are both out of range.

It's still early for me, what is the ignition "power stage" and where is it located? All I can think of right now is the one for the heater/AC.

 

Kiss thanks for the help, Ill have to wait to check the grounds when the snow melt off because the grounds on the block that I removed are accessable from under the car. As a side not I went to a wrecking yard and found crank & cam to try, no luck, still no spark.

 

There is also the chance you "moved" a ground. I had one of these drive me crazy on a late 80's injected GM. They were fairly new back then when I ran into it. The owner had done a thermostat and when reinstalling the wires moved a ground from the thermostat housing lug to an intake manifold bolt. It wasn't much but it was enough that it drove the computer crazy. I can't remember what circuit or what problem it caused only that it took us weeks to figure it out.
That was when fuel injection was newer and the computers were "pickier" but I've still run into problems more recently with charging systems that won't put out or put out too much because of an improper ground. I know that one ohm isn't much but to a computer you have to remember that "zero" and "one" are on opposite sides of the world.

 

Alright here is what I have done today, without any results! Following Kiss’s advice I double checked all my connections as well as spraying them with contact cleaner and verifying the grounds are in the correct place. (Compared to old engine). The test on #7 is kind of weird because pin #1 is a black wire, which I believe is a ground wire and if it is, than getting a reading of 1 ohm would make sense wouldn’t it? It would indicate a complete circuit, right?

 

FUEL, AIR, SPARK = FIRE. Something is missing. Is the MAF messed up? Is the throttle body linkage adjusted correctly for the throttle to work properly? As soon as you move the throttle, you should hear the switch click.

 

Do your "old/new" comments in post #12 refer the ignition coil only or to the ignition power stage unit too? Based on your input i would guess the pwr stage is your problem.

 

Rspi,
I agree I’m missing something but I can’t put my finger on it! I don’t believe the MAF is damaged and the throttle worked fine when the engine stopped running, Would the MAF prevent getting spark from the coil?

gdog,
Yes I replaced both the coil and power stage as 1 unit. J
I’m having a thought, how would one test the knock sensors? Could that be my problem or maybe the oil sender? This gremlin is getting the better of me and I’m getting pi@#ed!!

 

My bad, NO SPARK. I guess you need to test everything in the electrical spark path. Do you have the manual?