Oil light came on 4 days after checking the oil. The oil was at the correct level when checked, then I had to put 3 quarts in today. I'm looking for input on what is a common cause of this in the B5234T engine. Also, thinking the knock is from a main bearing or rod. Thoughts? Thanks.

 

You had a major failure of something. Check the coolant to see if it has any oil floating in the expansion tank.
Check under the car. Get a clean piece of cardboard as big as you can or a few of them to cover wheel to wheel and from the bumper about four feet back (under turbo). Run the engine and look to see where it's dripping. To lose three quarts in a couple days it had to be dripping out.
Bad oil cooler hose to the engine (turbo) ??
Once the oil light came "ON" how much driving did you do before you added the three quarts ?? Did three bring it back up to full ??

 

If you have a knock mor than likely it is gonna be a rod knock. Either easy it is going to lead to a new engine

 

I drove for about 15 miles to get to the closest auto parts store for oil. I just got this car about a month ago, and it ran like a top. I'm thinkin I might have to pick up a beater to make it by for now... How much does a full rebuild cost on the average in parts?

 

When the oil light comes on it doesn't indicate you need oil, it's telling you the most critical component of the engine is totally missing. Without the proper oil pressure the internals of the engine start to tear each other apart.

Oil light comes on, IMMEDIATELY pull over and shut it off. Shut it off and slap it in neutral even before you pull over if you can.

If your oil light was on for close to 15 minutes I'm surprised it's only knocking but the damage is likely to be wide spread once it's torn down and inspected.

Your engine isn't likely to be average. I'd suggest starting to look for a good used engine or just another car depending on the condition of your 850s interior and exterior.

As for rebuild kits, most people just get the parts from anywhere they can find them. Like FCP, IPD
Volvo Parts - OEM & Genuine Replacement Parts Online Catalog | FCP Euro
https://www.ipdusa.com/customer_acco...amecatalog.php
NAPA, Oreilly, Autozone, ....

 

There are some things you need to think about, if you're not a millionaire.

1. These volvos have some o-rings in the oil pickup tube that go bad, and you lose oil pressure. It seems like the oil pressure is okay when the oil is cold, but whey they warm up, the oil light will come on. If that is the case, you'll need to drop the pan and replace those o-rings. If, on the other hand, you ran it out of oil, then of course that isn't your trouble.

2. If you do drop that oil pan, you can look to see if you have a rod bearing that is damaged. Rod bearings are very cheap, and it won't hurt a thing for you to repair that while you're in there. If you still have an engine knock when you're done, all you've lost is your time.

3. If you don't work on cars yourself, then for sure, this is not the car for you, just walk away. Nobody should be taking an 850 to a mechanic that charges money. Cheaper to just buy another 850 every time you need an oil change.

 

That also goes for the temp gauge going TOWARDS the RED.

Guess what? A $50 tow job is a lot cheaper than a replacement motor... On top of that, most people have FREE TOWING on their insurance policy, it's usually only $1 per month.

My 21 daughter called me from the side of the road on her way to Cincy from Little Rock (just outside of Indi)... Dad, my temp needle WAS GOING TOWARDS the red line so I pulled to the side of the freeway and TURNED IT OFF. It has a hose blown apart. After it cooled down, she was able to drive the car to a parts store, get the hose replaced, and finish her 1400 mile road trip. After she got home, I had to replace the head gasket. The good thing is, she made it home, the bad thing is, she had a mild head gasket leak (which caused the hose to split in the first place). Moral of the story, RED LIGHTS/INDICATORS in the dash mean STOP IMMEDIATELY, not try to make it to where you think you need to go.
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Now to the op, you will need a motor. The cost to rebuild is not worth it.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...other-r-71465/

 

Yeah firebird parts once you spin a rod bearing there is no repairing it by replacing it. The damage is done once it spins. It damages the crank and all the metal particals flow through the system and damage everything else.

 

So I think I have a plan of attack. My options are:

1: Rebuild the motor. Cost: unknown

2: Replace motor with B5234FT. Thus is what is in it now. Cost: $1,400

3: Replace motor with B5234T5. I would like to put this in because it is supposed to be a better motor, but I'm not sure if it will work. Cost: $1,000

My biggest concerns with the T5 motor are what will I have to all change to make it work. The T5 motor also has less than 150,000 miles on it.

 

Mileage means nothing in a motor that is older than 1 year old and has been run in a car. Someone could have purchased the car, not changed or checked the oil in 1 year and put 50,000 miles on it. Not likely but possible. Miss just 2 oil changes or better yet, spring an oil leak and drive the car 15 minutes and the motor is toast.

The only way to chance a used motor is for a compression test to be done on it. Sad to say, I read about motor rebuilds with poor to bad results. I repeat, compression test.

 

"Yeah firebird parts once you spin a rod bearing there is no repairing it by replacing it. The damage is done once it spins. It damages the crank and all the metal particals flow through the system and damage everything else. "

Yes and no. If you spin a bearing you might be able to have the crank ground down depending on the depth of the damage. In the case of our average car and engine if you pulled the engine you'd likely be better off just getting a good used crank and a matching set of new bearings. In more common engines you can exchange your damaged crank for a reground one with matching over sized bearings.
The metal from the spun bearing will flow out of the bearing and into the pan and get filtered so it's not as likely to get into anything else and cause damage the way something like antifreeze can get past the filter and pumped into everything.

Like Robert said, mileage isn't always an exact representation of the engines condition. Knowing it ran smoothly or at least knowing it ran without knocking would be more important. Not knowing how it ran then a compression test BEFORE letting go of any cash would be appropriate to cover your butt.

What if you buy a nice clean low mileage engine that they say ran smoothly and quietly when brought in to the wreckers only to fork over the $$$, pull yours, install it and find out you are getting bubbles in the coolant recovery tank . Now you have an engine showing the first stages of the head gasket failing and you need to pull the head. You never know if that's why the car is in there to begin with. The PO sure isn't going to tell them if he get's more money driving it to them.
If you get a used engine by all means try to do a compression test before paying for it and at least before you install it just to save yourself from ending up with trouble.

You can always call around and see if there is an automotive Vo-Tec shop in the area that would tackle a rebuild on it in class ??

I don't know what the difference is between the B5234 FT or T5. The only problems might be if you're trying to use a head from a VVT engine from the 70 series. The "R" had more power because of the computer and not anything in the engine I'm aware of.

 

The only physical difference in the engine is the exhaust manifold. That's really it. DIY part lots will usually price all engines with the same number of cylinders the same. Although most don't have a price for five cylinder engines. If that's the chosen route then I'd say try for the R engine. Won't hurt a thing to try and it's a little better performance-wise with the exhaust manifold even if it isn't much. Better platform for tuning down the road.

 

I'd go with the non-R motor. Has less of a chance to have been abused.