Hi everyone!

This is my second Volvo 850, so I know know my way around the vehicle a bit. It's a 1993 GLT with 156k miles. I've done lots of routine maintenance on the vehicle after acquiring it, and if I decide to keep it I'll end up doing some suspension work....

So here's the deal:
My turn signals will not flash. The hazards will flash when turned on, but the turn signals will not flash independently. The relay inside the hazard switch seems to be working alright, as the hazards do flash. Sometimes, pressing on the top of the dashboard, above the instrument cluster will make the turn signals work. I went so far as to pull the cluster out and wiggle the wires around, checked the harnesses to make sure the wires are seated right, cleaned all contacts, still a mixed bag. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.

Could this be the turn signal column? I'm kind of skeptical of that being the issue because of the very strange "press on the dashboard and they work sometimes" situation. I'm really just getting frustrated and tired of taking this apart!

 

If you can get a hold of a used emergency/turn signal flasher and see if that solves your problem.

I'd doubt it's in the column if you can repeat the dashboard pressing and get the system to work.

When you have the four ways going did you check to see if all the bulbs are working (I know but I had to ask).

If it really gets bad I know how you can pull power from the cigarette lighter and with three feet of wire, four connectors and an electronic 552 flasher you can "hot wire" it in. You only need to cut one wire in the column near the turn siganl switch to splice in the power feed.
I did that to run my LEDs.

 

Haha yes, I did observe that all four bulbs illuminate. The turn signals just won't flash independently. It's the strangest thing. I really can't figure how the cluster would be creating this issue. I examined it when removed from the vehicle and can't find anything obviously wrong with it. I hate to rig it up, but will consider it as a last resort!

 

The other thing to do would be to remove the covers from the turn signal switch and jump the connector to see if you possibly have a bad switch.
It would tell you if power is coming from the four way to the switch as you could use a test light or meter to test. If you did and you jumped it and it worked then you'd know it was the switch.
On my '95 the power in from the four way is the green with red tracer that the cutter is on. The two wires on either side of it are the one's for left and right turn.

BUT ... from your description I'd guess there is a bad connection in there someplace. It's just giving you grief trying to find it.

 

I hated digging into that dash as well. I would go get a junk yard flasher relay and try that.

 

I can only think of 3 possibilities:

1. Faulty flasher unit
2. Faulty combination switch (turn signal sw)
3. Broken wiring around the dash.

A broken wiring cannot be seen unless if there is an obvious cut. You need a circuit tester/multimeter to find that out. It doesn't hurt to invest $30 on a Craftsman digital multimeter.

JPN

 

+1 to what JPN said, and I am pretty sure you've already eliminated #1 as a possibility.

Get yourself a VOM and ck the voltage at the TS switch connector (referenced to ground; key ON); should be 12v at grn/red wire (these is feed from flasher, integrated into 4way flasher switch). BTW: when schematic says grn/red that means green wire with a red tracer.

1. Assuming that's good, ck same grn/red wire when activating left or right TS; voltage may droop a bit but should stay about 12v.
2. If that cks out, ck grn wire; 0v when TS off or when right turn activated; 12v when left turn activated.
3. Same for right side; ck blu/grn wire; 0v when TS off or when left turn activated; 12v when rt turn activated.

Let us know what you find. If voltage is good on grn/red wire but tests #2 and/or #3 fail, then you need a TS switch.

 

In the post above they are talking about taking the cover off the ignition switch and turn signal switch so you can get to the connector. If you take the two torx screws out you can take the turn signal switch off the column. It's easier to take the switch off the column to take the connector off for testing without breaking the retaining clips.

 

Today I ran to a junk yard and pulled a replacement haz switch, and a replacement turn signal column switch. Neither one solved the issue! So much for that afternoon... Should've got some office work done...

Anyway, ironically after all that pickin, I ended up getting a decent offer from a dealership for a new car and the Volvo 850 was part of the down payment, so away it goes! Problem solved, no. Disaster averted, yes.

I appreciate all the resources guys! Don't worry, tonight I drank a few extra IPA's in honor of my fellow weekend warriors