I notice every time I start the car, it revs high then goes back to normal but besides that, I hear this rattling noise while the car is idling. Is that a normal thing for volkswagen's because I heard another car with the same clicking type rattling noise. I know I'm a noob but just wondering, thanks.

 

Ok.... Well what year make and model?

When did the sound start?
Have you tried removing the serp belt and run the car to see if it goes away?

 

1996 850 glt automatic, sound started along time ago and I haven't tried removing the serp belt, how do I go about this? Sometimes the sound is loud after a long drive after the car starts up again but the sound has been there for awhile. it sounds like this, 98 Volvo S70 GLT Engine Ticking - YouTube it's another volvo but it sounds like mine.

 

That is a valve tap in that video...

What is your oil level at?
How often do you change your oil?

 

Oil is half right now but I notice that it keeps going down fast like I have a leak somewhere. So I keep putting new oil in because the oil runs out, If I put about 3 quarts of oil in, it last about 1 month in a half. Last time there was an oil change was bout a year ago.

 

How many miles are on it now? Have you checked to see what's leaking and from where?
AND ........ what exactly does a year mean in miles on your vehicle? Do you change it yourself or take it in? What brand and weight are you using?

On my wife's Supercoupe that's less than 2K but on my car that's closer to 16K. Either case if you haven't changed it in a year it's no wonder it rattles.

Adding a quart of new oil every month doesn't mean it's fresh in your engine. It just means you're diluting the dirty stuff a little. You still need to dump the old stuff every 3-7K depending on who you listen to and do a filter. Or if you don't drive much, yearly due to condensation and combustion contaminants that will break down the oil.

 

@ Spider: It would be helpful if you posted what model car you have in every thread you start, since it's not in your signature. Also, you should never go beyond the oil change recommendations of the manufacturer of any car. Change the oil and filter no less than every 6 months, no matter how many miles you put on it.

At this point you need to do a compression test to see if the motor is any good. It may be time to cut bait and move on. Do be aware that this motor problem will follow you if you don't get in the habbit of changing oil regularly. Fresh oil to a car is like water is to your body.

 

Well have you looked for an oil leak anywhere?

If you loosing oil that fast something is seriously wrong.

not changing your oil for that long isnt good...
Your causing more dammage than needed
Id say cut your losses and sell it for cheap.

 

Aside from the oil loss, if your oil level is full and you still have the clatter here is a little story for you.

My current engine in my 850 came from a T-5R that a guy was selling. When we started the engine you actually backed up because you thought it was going to explode...I am not kidding. It was all valve clatter. I talked the guy down because the noise was horrible. The oil level was fine too.
I bought it and had the car towed home. I heard about this trick of adding Automatic Transmission fluid to your engine oil to clean up/clear up problems like this. I searched for the highest detergent ATF fluid I could find and added a quart to the engine. Started it up and let it idle. It took 45 seconds and the clatters started going away. A couple minutes and a few light revs and the clatter was GONE. I let it sit in the engine for about a week since I was not driving the car. Every day I would start it and cycle the ATF through. After that, I changed the oil...twice and have not heard a tick since. Its the engine in my sig and runs flawless.

 

Would you think it would be ok to add the ATF, drive the car for 100 miles, then change it? Or drive less miles?

 

Keep in mind that ATF is really thin so it can make its way through the system better. I cant recommend one way or another. Just keep that in mind and be careful. I drove the car around the block a few times slowly, no high revs. I was just careful with the whole process. It was in the engine for a reason and I treated it like that. If you do it, it might be a good weekend project when you dont need the car.

 

Transmission fluid without being toooo technical, is pretty much 10 weight oil. It also works in jacks if you don't happen to have hyd. jack specific oil and you need to add.
Could you drive on it. Yes, you should be able to as long as the temperature isn't high and you don't put your foot in it. And, if it's just one quart you're just lowering the weight of all the oil a little. After all look at what trans fluid goes through inside a transmission.
You can also use a specific product that is for flushing engines (any parts store) or a product called "Sea Foam". Sea foam is an additive that you can drive with in the oil all the time. As for the "engine flush" chemical you'd need to read the label. I haven't used one in quite a while and I'm not sure. The whole concept is something that will break down the crap that accumulates inside an engine over time. How much crap you have depends entirely on how often the oil was changed, what quality oil was used and if the PCV system was manitained.
I bought mine with the same valve train noise and after two lof's and no additional chemicals it hasn't come back. But now that I've read this I'm probably going to go with something just before changing this next time.
I tend to keep my eyes open and get the "house" brand synthetic when it's on sale as I'm a DIY kind of guy and it's good oil at a great price. IMO