when we talk about the rear seals being blown out if the oil separator, and flame trap get clogged, are we talking about the 'camshaft rear oil seals? Just making sure. I've replaced the flame trap, and I will be doing the oil separator/vent box next weekend, and I just wanted to make sure that if there is still a leak in that area, that it would probably be the rear seals. I will post some pictures of the leak area, and hope that someone could help with narrowing down the leak, if there still is one. Thanks in advance everyone! By the way, my 95 Volvo 850 glt fixer-upper is almost ready to drive. I'm pretty excited!!

 

The rear main seal refers to the seal at the crankshaft, namely the one that is on the tranny side and is the most difficult to get to. Healthy engine breathing will allow this seal to last longer. If you have drips coming from where the block and tranny bolt up (theres a little "drain space" where they meet) it's most likely the rear main or if it's tranny fluid it's the tranny. I had to change the rear main in my 240 a few times over the ten years I had it, granted it was a RWD but it was still not fun when lying on your back. Keep an eye on oil consumption because you might be able to let it go for a bit if it's not too bad.

 

If your leak is towards the top of the engine then most likely the seals we are talking about are the cam seals.The rear main seal is the crank seal and it leaks under the car.

 

Okay, I have not cleaned, or replaced the oil separator yet, but I'm pretty sure (99%) that the oil leak is comming from under the car, and not on top. It looks like it's pretty bad, in my eyes. I think that I am loosing about a 1/2 quart per 50 miles. Anyway, I'm trying to get this car back to decent condition, but my wife is not happy, because that's all I've been doing for the last two months. This car does not seem to be a family car, because I don't know where any other married man would have the time to fix it. Anyway, if someone could be so kind as to give me a fairly good detailed explanation as to how to drop the transmission, and fix the rear main seal, I would be so grateful, otherwise, I think that all that I have put into the car will be for nothing. I will not sell it to someone else, as was done to me, and I will not drive it. Thanks in advance. If I could, maybe I could work something out with you guys and Mr. Tech where I could do a little at a time, and take pictures, so as that I don't mess anything else up. I've put enough money into this thing, and I would rather avoid any extra that is not necessary at this point. Thanks!!!!! Again, please be very detailed in what I would need to do. Thanks.

 

i had this same problem with my 97 850 w/the turbo engine...also the oil line that went into the engine from the turbo seal(o-ring) was leaking...i put a new o-ring for that, but the main seal i just left and for some odd reason the leak stopped...i have no clue how or why, but i did nothing to prevent the leak but it stopped on its own...but now i noticed i burn oil

 

First do a super job cleaning everything.Then you can run the car and see exactly where the leak is coming from.You don't want to go through all the work to replace the rear main seal and do it for nothing.
At home on the ground it might take you about 3 days to do it.You will need to also have special tools or something good to support the engine and lower it to get the trans out.

So like I said clean it good and then let it run or drive it around the block and look and see where the oil is coming from.

 

I should first clean/replace the vent box, and clean, correct?

 

I don't understand this, but when I switched to Valvoline High Mileage oil the leaks were not near as bad. I had both front and rear seals and the head gasket replaced at around 150-160K miles. It still leaked. I doubt the head gasket needed to be replaced. Then I had that Turbo hose replaced and it still leaked, but very little. Then when I switched to the Valvoline there is next to no leaking.

 

Yes replace the vent box and clean the engine.Then check.
First He has a non turbo car so that doesn't apply.
Second there is tons of things that can leak oil.Thats why I keep telling him to clean it good and then see where it is coming from.

If he really wants to check good he can go out and buy oil dye and install in the oil and let it run then check with a black light and see where it comes from.Then he will know really fast where it is coming from.

 

That's what the guy did with mine when he replaced the head gasket. He had die in it and showed me with a mirror where it was leaking. It was real clean then too. I mean the guy that did it really knows cars, but he does not like the FWD Volvo's. After that I just started taking it to the Volvo mechanics for anything I can't do myself. I would never attempt the oil seals myself.

 

That is a good way to find the hard to find oil leaks.

 

Okay, the I have the intake manifold off, and the oil separator. First of all, the first I was wondering about the holes in the engine, and the hoses that connect it to the oil separator. Where does the bottom hole go to? The reason I ask is that I am having a hard time seeing if the hole goes anywhere. I will stick a piece of wire in there or something tomorrow, if need be to see if it is a thru hole. And, the hoses, do I need to replace the hoses also? Okay, pictures #3 &4 are of the oil separator. The thing looks like it's pretty new, and I hate to beat a dead horse already, but I did try and clean it with some carberator cleaner, and there's nothing in it. It's not clogged, or anything. Now, on to picture #5. I believe that this is the EGR valve, that goes under the throttle intake. Notice the hole on top. It is completely clogged, as well as the hole that goes up thru the throttle intake. And, the large metal hose that goes to the EGR doesn't look that great also. What should I do... that is with all of the above. Thanks in advance!!!

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couple of things that I missed on my last message. Because I was having trouble with the oil spill before I change the flame trap, and at the same time, I filled the oil up about a 1/2 quart extra. Could this have something to do with the leak... that the engine does not like to have any extra oil? I know I should have asked this question before, but I've been doing a lot of things to this car to get it into running order. Also, the intake manifold gasket is in good shape. Apparently the person that I purchased the car from just had the alternator changed, and to do this, you would probably have to take the manifold off to do it, correct? Anyway, should I reuse the gasket? It's only about 5 months old, at the latest.

 

First the Holes in the engine is where the Vent box goes.The bottom there is the rubber hose with the 2 clamps.Just make sure the hole looks clean.The top one the same.You did get new seals correct!
Make sure the hoses are clear and not clogged.
Clean the EGR valve out the best you can as well as all the lines that go to it.
If the vent box feel really light then you will be fine.If it feels like it weighs like 5-10 LBS then it is clogged.
I would not reuse the gasket because that is a very touchy area.You can try if you want but you may have to tear it down and do it again if there is a leak.

Where is the oil reading on the dipstick?If you are a little over then you should be fine.If it is to full it will start smoking really bad.If you only put a 1/2 a quart then you should be fine.

 

Sounds like a plan. The vent box is very light. Now, the bottom hole that the vent box connects to the engine seems like it is completely clogged. I will check it out, but more tonight, but it seems like there is no hole, or a very small hole, or maybe the hole changes directions quickly and I can't see this. But, anyway, I will put a new intake gasket, and I will clean all the hoses, and the EGR hoses, and the EGR vent that goes to the intake. Tell me, does this get clogged often. And if it is clogged, what will that do to the car's perfomance, and problems? Thanks!

 

Also, what seals are you referring to? There are no seals on the vent box. It is just clamped all over with hoses.

 

One more thing. Is there any way to check the egr valve once I clean it up? That is with a vacuum system? I don't want to put the part back in, and find out that it is bad, and have to go thru this again unnecessarily. Thanks!!

 

It seems like it is happening alot lately.I have heard of about 5 cars in the last month with the same problem lately.It will probably hurt the performance slightly.
The top hole should have a seal a round o-ring looking thing.The bottom you should replace the hose.The new one comes with a metal sleeve and no clamps anymore.

You can add vaccum to the top of the EGR valve and make sure it moves before you install it.

There should be a hole in both holes it is probably just clogged.Try to clean it out good.

 

Will replace the hoses on the vent box with new ones.

EGR valve cleaned out, vacuum applied, and it works great.

Entire engine, manifold, throttle body, and vent box cleaned throughly, and ready for re-installation.

Anything else before I proceed?

 

All systems GO!!!