I'm ready to install my SS brake hoses, but the two front flex hoses will not come off the solid line (haven't even tried the rears yet). My fear is that I'll tear it all apart and have to replace the hard lines. Since I've never replaced hard lines before, would it be easier to spend the $50 bucks at FCP to get the replacements or is it so easy that I should have no problem heading to a local parts store and buying the hose, all the tools & parts necessary to replace them?

I checked AutoZone and they list so many different parts, I feel I might spend a good chunk of time running back and forth to replace the wrong parts.

And it's official; there is no way I can get that nut loose. Flare nut wrench rounded the sucker. Vice grips chewed it up. The darn thing laughed at my blow torch and gulped down the PB Blaster like it was Kool-Aid on a hot summer day.

Looks like I have to (a) buy the hoses from FCP, or (b) cut the thing off, flare out the end and get a new nut. Anyone have experience with this process? Any tips or tricks to pass along? I've never done it, so I'm going to start my web search!

 

torch to the break line... I'd change that fluid after you get done doing what your doing....


At autozone your going to end up with a straight shot of brake line... you'll have to form it yourself. (at least thats what they sell near me.)

Then again im not sure FCP sells preformed either for that matter.

What about a junk yard? could be cheap. if you can find some in good shape that you can get apart

 

Yeah I did my 96 NA a few months ago, all the way around, rebuilt all of my calipers, flushed the system. Had the same problem as you're having with the nuts and my process worked great.

 

um, did I miss the details of your process?

 

Oh sorry, I just wanted to make sure some of the people on this forum see my posts.

Cut the hard line right behind the nuts, hack saw blade. Go to autozone and rent or buy flairing tool, it's a one stage bubble flare it looks like a bulb on the end of the line. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcUGB...eature=related see bubble flare.

Do the first flare step in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNePrGR1D-s but not the second


Get new nuts (they have them). PUT The nuts on and re-flare the existing line. Bend the line down and pump some fluid out to make sure no metal chips fro the cut are still in the line.

There is enough metal line to stretch for one, maybe two flares, so try to get it right the first time. Maybe buy a short piece of line to practice, especially if you haven't flared before. Make sure you use the right tubing size clamp and clamp it tight or the flaring tool will push it out and you get no flare and a mess.

When I tried to get mine off the tubing was twisting and I was afraid it would break so I decided to cut and re-flare.

 

OK, a few more questions – just trying to cover all my bases without constantly running back to my laptop with greasy hands!

- The hard lines on the Volvo are 3/16", right?

- It's a bubble flare, not a double flare or a double-bubble flare?

- When running to AutoZone for a new nut, do I get a “bubble-nut fitting” or the “inverted-nut fitting”? What is the threading - M12 x 1.0 or M13 x 1.5?


My fear, of course, is screwing up the process and losing my brakes when the kids are in the car, so I’m still keeping new hard lines in ‘Options’ column.

- Anyone buy new hard lines from a dealer? Any idea of price? Are they pre-bent in any way? (yes, I'll be calling them later today, just want to avoid sticker shock before I dial...)

- Is there a special tool(s) for bending the hard line? Saw someone mention using an old Mason jar.

- Is it easy to eyeball the bending process or do I need to make strict measurements of bend radii, angles and runs?

- Would it make sense to remove the old one and bend the new one side-by-side out of the car?


As for flushing the system:

- How much fluid should I have on hand to completely flush the system? I thought the capacity of the system was 1/2 a liter, but I saw someone on another forum suggested three or four liters - really?!

 

Once you cut the line, you should be able to get a closed end wrench on the nut and remove it. Take it with you to autozone. "Sometimes" they have people there who know how it's done and they will show you and get the right nuts. The bubble is the first operation, you will stop after this operation. you press the mandrill into the line while it's in the clamp, the line has to extend beyond the face of the clamp. Here's another vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVbHk0kkX8k

He makes it look more difficult than it really is. Don't forget to ream. I think I ended up cut a bit of the line off with a tubing cutter to get a nice flat end.

Have some one stand on the brakes hard and look for leaks, you'll see them if you have any. and the peddle will start to go to the floor.

I think 1/2 quart is enough. DO NOT get brake fluid on your paint. I used a Motive products Power bleeder I bought from FCP., make bleeding much easier.

 

OK, it turns out that FCP doesn't have the hard lines in stock anymore so I've ordered a flaring kit - AutoZone and Harbor Freight didn't carry them in-store - and I've been practicing my bubble flares on a 'practice' pipe I bought. I think I'm doing pretty good.


So I feel confident that I can do the real lines on the car, but one question; when I cut the line and start to flare it, the brake fluid will be dribbling out of the pipe. Is that going to be a huge issue? If I drain the system first, won't that cause damage to the master cylinder? Any suggestions?

 

Well I did the front drivers hard line, and BOY what a pain! Trying to work in the cramped space is one thing, but dealing with the dripping brake fluid is another! It made everything slippery.

What made it even harder was that the length of tube at the end had to be straightened to get the nut on before flaring started. I used my pipe clamp from the flaring kit to straighten it, but the clamp has teeth in the slots which made it a bit of a challenge. I didn't want to clamp it too much for fear that the teeth would dig in and create a weak point where a crack or a kink would appear.

The front passenger side is going to be even more of a problem. The hose is bent at a sharp angle with very little room to work and I'm not sure what to do about it. One thought was to try using a pipe bender and bend it straight, although I see that being a horrible pain. Another thought is to hack off a good chunk of the pipe and add a two-foot section - but that would require me to lay on the engine while I work. The last thought is to get a new pipe from a dealer, which would run about 40 bucks. I didn't ask if it was rolled-up or shaped, but I'm guessing they wouldn't make it too easy for us. Anyone know how the pipe comes from the dealer?