What's the easiest way to replace the therastat? I did a search, it looks like taking off the fuel rail will make it easy. I took off the 10(?)mm bolts that attach the fuel rail to the intake but it wouldn't lift off after I did that...it looked like the injectors were held in place with metal clips, and that might be getting into something that I'm not experienced enough for yet.

I also read that having a long torx screw attachment might work, although it still goes in sideways, which is something I would prefer to avoid at all costs.

I used PB Blaster on the accessible torx screw and got it loose, so now the only one left is that difficult one.

thanks
matt

 

Use a long t40 torx to remove the two screws and you can wiggle the t-stat housing out. I would replace the ect sensor at the same time as you are right there.

 

Whoa Whoa Whoa. What are you doing removing the fuel rail? Completely unnecessary.

Only thing you might want to do is go to the dealer and get the upgraded housing screws. The stock ones are aluminum and tend to round and the upgraded ones are steel. If you have a good torx set, you may not need the replacements.

 

Hi Matt,

As RedTurbo850 has stated, you do not need to remove the fuel rail to service the thermostat. After spraying the upper housing Torx screws, hit the housing with a plastic/rubber mallet, but not so hard that you crack the housing. With the last Torx in place, see if you can get it loose by turning the upper housing CCW.

If you end up stripping the Torx screw, you can either use a Vise-Grip or hit the screw CCW with a small chisel & hammer*.

*See precautions below by Tech.


JPN

 

Be very careful tapping the screws with anything!!
The housings break very very easy.

 

When I did mine, I lightly tapped it with an impact screwdriver to get it lose. Not doubt that was a stupid thing to do, but I got it and didn't break the housing. I replaced the torx screws with hex bolts when I put it back together. I did replace the temp sensor at the same time.

 

OK so it looks like a long T40 adapter for me, that's good news. I had seen a writeup mentioning the fuel rail so I wasn't sure.

I did a search on replacing the ECT sensor and a page from Volvo speed came up with step by step directions...exactly what I needed. Not sure why it didn't come up when I searched for replacing the therastat but I got it now.

Thanks everyone! I'll pick up the ECT sensor @ Napa when I'm out and about next, and attempt this repair in a bit.

matt

 

I replaced it! I ended up not needing a long torx set - see picture. I used a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter with a 1/4" extension with a 1/4" 12 point socket that held my T40 torx socket...with tape...so it wouldn't fall out. OK talk about G-H-E-T-T-O with a captial G. Anyway it worked, the PB Blaster had been working on the screws for a day and they came off without issue.

The ECT sensor was $60 at the local Napa store and had to be special ordered so I didn't bother with that.

The new thermostat works great, the only thing that scared me initially was the large amount of white smoke immediately after startup but it went away after a 15 minute test drive. The new thermostat works great and went to the 3 o'clock position on the panel after about 3 minutes of idling.



[IMG]local://upfiles/5776/1318471FB1B24BF696EC818172EB5C16.jpg[/IMG]

 

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]


JPN

 

Good Job!

 

I think we made a bigger deal out of this than we should have. If you get the screws out, it's about as easy a job as you can do yourself.

Glad it is working for you.

 

Congrats

 

I'm just happy you didn't go pulling the fuel rail to replace the thermostat.

 

+1.


JPN

 

Yeah me too! I found a writeup here...which led me to think I needed to do it, although under further examination it mentions the "rail guard". It looks like there is a cover on top of the fuel rail (I don't think my car has one though) but I was able to do it without removing the guard.

I'd like to do the PCV next but it looks like it might be an all day job, and I'm a little skeptical doing that in my apartment complex, so it looks like I might end up paying a local volvo shop to do it. Any ideas what the retail value of a PCV and EGR cleaning job should run in the states?

-matt

 

Yes if you haven't done it before allow enough time for the job, unless you'll have it done at a shop. The intake manifold has to be disconnected so you need a new manifold gasket to service the PCV. FCP Groton sells complete kit, and if your shop accepts parts from customers, you know the right parts are installed. Make sure to get the right PCV kit, as there seems to be a bit of confusion as to which kit fits what.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#850
http://www.eeuroparts.com/home.aspx

Good luck,


JPN