I'm gonna pull the engine apart again this weekend to re-seal it since the first time i did it wasn't correct. Got a few oil leaks in the areas that use the liquid gasket material. I want to make sure I do this exactly right this time so am looking for some advice.

1) Do i have to remove the crankshaft to seal the crankcase? Tryin to save $ on the Connecting rod bolts and if i can leave the crank in place and seal around it i'd rather go that route.

2) Can anyone explain in detail how much of the gasket material i should use and how to best apply it?

When i did this a few months ago for the first time, the insutructions said to roll on with a roller brush. I used a foam roller. I coated the roller and applied a somewhat thin coating over all surfaces on both halves of the parts to join. Finally i screwed both halves back together using the correct tightening sequence and torqued to spec in stages. But i still got the leaks... So how much gasket material is too little...is there such a thing as putting too much on there?

I figure the more i put on, the more chance it has of squeezing into the engine and possibly screwing something up or getting in the oil system. Is this a problem or is more better?

3) How do i best remove the old gasket material?

 

Lude...
First no you don't have to remove the crank to seal the crank case...second...clean is the word you are looking for...make sure every surface is absolutely clean as you can get it they make a gasket remover spray, get a couple cans so you don't run out, clean it then wipe with alcohol and make it so it is a perfect surface (both mating surfaces)... clean the threads of all fasteners and make sure there is nothing obstructing the threads.... second get the vehicle warm get the surfaces to around 50 or warmer...this allows the adhesive to 'stick' better. More isn't better just use quality products from names you know...permatex, loctite or others but don't use junk stuff... I use the permatex copper hitemp spray so it works on any engine surface...just follow the directions but I do it to both surfaces put the gaskets in place and snug everything by hand...then follow the proper torquing procedure... Make sure the cam seals are good and tight too...

 

I use a regular small roller to put it on only a thin layer is needed.

Correct no need to remove crank seal.

I use a special plastic looking wire wheel thing that is made for cleaning aluminum to clean the stuff up.

 

What will happen if the stuff squeezes out to the inside of the crankcase? Or onto the crankshaft itself?

 

It shouldn't be that close to it. But if you are using the Volvo sealer it doesn't dry unless all air is gone from it. So when you tight the pan up and take all the air from between the pan and block it dry's.

Thats why I only use a regular small paint roller a nice thin coat seals it good. I have never had to redo anything from it leaking from not enough sealer. I have also never made a mess with it either.

 

I don't get why it leaked the first time...except maybe i didn't use the volvo stuff. I used the stuff from FCP Groton, but this time will definitely be using the volvo stuff.

Here's pics of where it's leaking.

Some of this is from the PCV hose, but also from the crankcase and oil pan.

 

make sure that all the valve cover bolts are secure to torque...my front 2 near the cam pulleys, were loose causing a leak. I use the high temp copper spray gasket made by permatex...stuff works great. Just follow directions. And a little inside the engine won't hurt. That engine gets so hot with so much pressure it will basically 'flush' it all into the filter. Which you may want to change after a couple weeks anyway just to be on the safe side...

GL

 

I love the Volvo stuff all though a little expensive but well worth it.

 

Tech,
I have never used the Volvo stuff, and the Honda guys swear by Honda Bond, I guess it is their own gasket surface prep and adhesive. I used the copper spray a gasket on my seadoo's and it worked great. So there are probably more than one way to 'skin a cat' , But I do have to give the Volvo stuff a chance....

 

I hear you. I have just seen work from using some of the aftermarket stuff that company's say work fine on the Volvo's.
We had also tried some of them ourselves. But when you end up cracking a cam cover trying to remove it due to the improper stuff being in there because someone else used it that tends to make you want to use the correct stuff.

 

Hi guys,

I have got a question regarding the oil pan sealant. Im not questioning the benefits and quality of the volvo "stuff", BUT is it really that important to use that?

The problem is, that my mechanic isnt a volvo specialist, but has years of experience and im always thrilled by his work.Id have to make him use the volvo sealant, which is a bit tricky, cause its like im telling him hes incompetent - id like to aviod this "insult" of his experience and skills.

Given that facts, is it really neccessary to make him use the volvo stuff, cause im convinced he knows what hes doing.

thy

 

It looks like there might be oil leaking from between the upper and lower halves of the block on the back of the engine: is this likely? I assume the question about "sealing the crankcase" refers to this seal: if so, can you direct me to this procedure? Adrenalin540's comment "no you don't have to remove the crank to seal the crank case" implies that this is the seal in question.
Also: HOW does a leak occur here, anyway? It's WAY above the oil level: is it from oil channels built into the block? Same with the oil pan: I imagine the oil sloshes around some, but so much that it not only reaches the seal, but PENETRATES it as well? How bad does this seal get? Completely gone?
Thanks, guys!

 

Chax, you are replying to a 6 year old thread. The parties involved are likely no longer active members and may not even own a Volvo any more.

If you have an issue with your car or need some help, start a new thread.