Has anybody used Gasgacinch when doing a tranny gasket/pan job? Or should I go completely dry(no sealer). If using a sealer how long should I let it sit and dry. Im going to flush the tranny too. The last time I did a job like this was for my 1993 Jeep Cherokee, 12 yrs ago. This is my first Volvo . thanks

1988 volvo 240 wagon a/t dl 240,500 miles

 

Buy a new gasket and filter.

 

I bought gasket and filter from FCP last week. I just want to make sure I do the job right. The local volvo shop wants $250 for the the tran flush I got the time, tools, fluids so why not.

 

I always put the gasket on dry and torque it up to spec using the recommended sequence. It has never leaked.

 

You should not have to use any major gasket gunk on the tranny pan gasket because it is not paper it is a cork style gasket. Also, no major gunk on the tranny filter gasket either. What I do is after I drop the pan and filter, I get the old gasket completely off by scraping it. Then I use some brake clean or whatever to really get the surface clean and free of any old gasket or tranny fluid. The key is having an extremely clean surface so you do not get any leaks when you put the new gasket on. I also use a very light spray of gasket sealer(blue aerosal can fluid is red in color) then I put the gasket on the pan and let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes. This insures it does not slide on you when you go to put it back on. Do not over torque the bolts when you put it on and make sure it's done evenly. It's not rocket science but it does take a light touch. Use a 1/4 drive ratchet so you do not over tighten by accident. Good luck...don't forget to drain the pan before you drop it down Oh and flush it after you do the new filter and gasket. It's a cinch to flush just make sure you have at least 12 quarts of ATF Dex/Merc and a good tranny filler funnel. Flush it until the color is bright red. If your fluid is black you may need more like 18 qts! Good luck it's easy but sometimes messy if you're not careful...

 

Thanks alot. A lot of very useful information that i will be using. I don't have any Volvo fans around my city Goodyear,AZ(i've only seen a handful during my 3 1/2 yrs living here). I got aficionados like you guys though. Thanks

 

Apparently you don't need the sealant, as this type of gasket goes on dry and when it contacts the ATF is swells and seals even better itself. A transmission shop guy told me to always put them on dry. If you flush out the old fluid and have nice red stuff in there, you really extend the transmission lifespan. I had an AW71 last 250,000 miles with only minor rough shifting from first to second and I used to change the fluid the lazy way (every 25K), which was drop out the fluid, replace it, drive around for a few days and then repeat twice more. That is a bit cheesy, but it does work. Never tow anything for any reason at all and make sure the oil cooler arrangement is OK and even ZF4HP22s will last for as long as you need. I have a ZF with 149 K on it and it shifts almost as well as a Cadillac transmission. Mike

 

Towing reasonable loads won't hurt an AW70-72. The ZF is a much maligned transmission, ruined by lack of servicing and idiots revving the crap out of em in park.

 

I've towed light loads 100s of miles at a time behind a 87 240 w/ AW70, no problems at all. can't even tell when the hobie-16 is back there, except when you look in the mirror (its wider than the car ;-O

for sure, re-bushing the back end and putting overload springs on it helped immensely.