Ok, when I first got the car a month ago, I noticed that there was a belt squeek. I ordered a belt from FCP (The revised on with new layout around alternator pulley) and the squeek stopped for about 2 weeks. Yesterday the squeek came back so I decided to use the old trick of soap on the belt. Well at idle speeds the belt doesn't squeek or shrill. At higher RPM in gear or not in gear (Manual Drive) the belt starts to shrill/squeek gets loader as RPMS get more. I am guessing that it is probably the Tensioner at this point, but want to see what everyone else thinks. Please let me know. Thanks.

 

Hello Chuck,

Greetings from cold Chicagoland.

If you've tried Continental's longer belt and the belt still squeaks, it might be one of the pulleys as you described. It could be the tensioner pulley (tired spring?), or the idler pulley. I would also check the contact surfaces of all pulleys for cleanliness, as well as checking for leaking coolant/oil that is getting on the pulley.

I wouldn't use soap or "belt dressing" spray, as they are temporary fix (as you say, about 2 weeks is probably the best they can do) and make mess. When the timing belt was changed last time, I wonder if the hydraulic tensioner, tensioner pulley & idler pulley were replaced. They don't require replacing at every belt change, but I change them at every other timing belt change (the hydraulic tensioner may not need replacing unless the oil is leaking badly).

That's all I can think of right after waking up from sleep.

Good luck finding the cause.


JPN

 

Oh some other stats...

All of the equipment is working ie: AC, Power Steering, and Alternator.

That just rules out the pulleys freezing up, but not the bearings going bad in them.

When I replaced the belt there was no squilling for two weeks. When it started to squill I use soap and belt dressing to see if it was the belt. I can't help but think that since it didn't' squill for two weeks with the new tight belt then it has to be the tensioner, due to the belt now being stretched. Of course any feed back would be great

Is there any way to test the pulleys or the tensioner spring in stead of replacing them. Just noticed that the tensioner is going to cost ~$100.00 w/shipping. I guess I can try to locate the noise.

I am going to remove the belt today when I get home and start the engine to make sure that it is the Serp. not the timing (praying). Once I do that I might see if I can locate the noise.

Anyone got a good deal on a tensioner/idler pulley for a 1993 M/T 850 GLT

I am only going to use this car for another 3 months as I am deploying to IRAQ so I am hoping for minor fixes, but if I need to fix it then I will.

Thanks again.

 

Hello again Chuck,

If it's the serpentine belt that is squealing, the contact surface might be glazed (looks shiny).

If you're only using the car for another 3 months, soap/dressing method should be ok. Belt stretching should be ok too, as a matter of fact some dealer technicians seem to stretch it before installation (according to Bay-13 at Volvospeed.com).

I am not sure as to how to test the tensioner spring, but you could test the pulley by trying to wiggle & spin it. If there is noticeable play or noise as you spin it with your hand, it's probably shot. Check the idler pulley as well.

If you plan to use the vehicle after you come back from Iraq, I wouldn't try to save money by buying cheap parts. Try to go with OEM, I often use FCP Groton and their parts are usually OEM or of better quality. Also, have someone run the engine at least once every 5 days (I would do it once every 3 days). The internal mechanisms need supply of oil or they rust out. But if you plan to get rid of the car after 3 months, this procedure or OEM parts are not necessary.

I wish you luck finding the cause.

Regards,


JPN

 

Just went out to the car on my Lunch break and started it up. It was making noise now at idle, which I figured that it would. The spring tensionor upon inspection was vibrating alot so being that I had some vise grips and the an extra belt (the one I took off) I decided to manual tighten the tensioner by applying for so that the belt would tighten... The sound stopped. This tells me that it is the serp. belt. I would think that since I just isolated one part, the tensioner, that I can probably just replace it. Here is one other thing that I noticed, the tensioner pulley isn't riding flush against the belt. It is alittle off. See picture below. The belt is on all the other pulleys, but off alittle on this one. What do you think? Just trying to get some other advice is all. I do plan on keeping the vehicle, just stored. When I get back I will more than likely give it to my daughter. So I don't want to put cheap parts on it.

Video of Noise and Tensioner:
(BTW-All the white powder you see is Dove soap...LOL)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oPN0q3vI6Q



[IMG]local://upfiles/7220/C865F66001954104B50D245A22922256.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hello Chuck,

Greetings from Chicagoland.

If the belt is not riding off the pulley, I believe it's ok to be a little off. Also, the tensioner pulley does move up & down slightly according to torque changes from the engine.

Have you tightened the tensioner pulley bolts? I believe there are 2 bolts, make sure they are nice & tight (approx 200" lbs.). If the bolts are tight and there is nothings else that seems the culprit, it may be the tensioner pulley assy (tired pulley bearing). Also make sure that other components are secure (power steering pump, A/C compressor & alternator).

I couldn't see your film due to some updates at youtube.

Good luck,


JPN