After attempting to stop my serpentine belt whining with a new tensioner, and then a new PS pump (where the sound was the loudest), I have finally found what the source of the whining is. A very knowledgeable parts store owner I know told me to remove the belt and spin each component by hand, seeing which one had any wobble / noise / etc to it. I removed the belt and turned the PS pump pulley - smooth and quiet, the idler pulley - smooth and quiet, the alternator pulley - smooth and quiet, then the AC compressor pulley - wobble, wobble, wobble!

So now I know I have to replace the AC compressor, along with the accumulator/drier and the orifice valve according to what I've been told. My question is, what else should I replace while doing it - or what else NEEDS replacing while doing it? Where is the orifice valve (as I have not seen it in manuals)? I have never ventured into this aspect of car repair (AC) but have done at least some of almost everything else. My brother has experience with R12 and R134a and has the gauges and vacuum pump and all (but this thing only has one port / low side so we'll see). The Haynes manual and my Volvo service manual stuff describe replacing the compressor from underneath (without removing the PS pump and alternator). Has anyone else done this repair - know any good shortcuts or precautions - anything? Is there anything else I should order while I am ordering the compressor, accumulator, and orifice valve from FCPGroton (while I'm getting free shipping)? Any experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Tracy

 

Does the A/C work now? If it does, you could just replace the clutch. If you could live without the car for 3 days, you could replace the bearing in the clutch for about $15.
I don't know the bearing # yet. The clutch comes off with a simple puller (not 3 jaw). You could pull the clutch, read the bearing #, reinstall the clutch and do it all again when the bearing shows up. It's only a matter of time vs. money.
I enjoyed your documentary.
ED7

 

Documentary? Do you mean the description of my problem or the writeup for a head gasket repair lol?

The AC does indeed work, with the clutch engaging and disengaging like it should. A coworker actually suggested the same thing to me yesterday about having the bearing pressed out and a new one pressed in. The area is so restrictive to work in though. It looks like about an inch between the end of the clutch and the body. That same coworker said I might be able to remove the mounting bolts for the compressor and have enough flex/slack to pull it up and to where I can better pull the clutch (without losing pressure/refrigerant/oil). I see a clutch holdng tool with three pins and a hole in the middle on AutoZone's loan-a-tool program. Once the nut is off, what kind of puller would I need? I bought a pulley puller from Harbor Freight when I replaced the PS pump. Thanks for the great advice and I'm glad you enjoyed the documentary!

 

A simple puller like a harmonic balancer puller, except thinner. I had made one years ago from 1/4" steel to pull small flywheels. 3/8" fine thread pusher bolt in the middle, 6mm bolts to pull. As long as the electromagnet and the plates are good on the clutch, just do the bearing... even if it lasts just a year. Your coworker is pretty bright, he can also help!
Way simpler and less expensive. My A/C bearing is grumbling also.
Wish I were back South again.
ED7

 

No need for a PULLER on the clutch, there are 3 holes tapped for (I think 5MM fine) thread them in and it "pushed" the clutch off.

Yes, remove the PS pump, and alternator and you can pull the compressor up with just enough room to work on it.

Bearing should have a bearing number on it and GRAINGERS or BEARING DISTRIBUTORS or possible MSC could cross reference to an available bearing.

 

Awesome information and thanks so much! When replacing the clutch, how do you reinstall it (tool?) or does it just push on by hand? I wondered about this after my experience of removing and replacing the PS pump pulley when I replaced the pump (and had to use a tool both ways). Also, while I have it off, should I only put the thinnest spacer back on if there are two or three, as I have seen a lot of mention of doing that on here.

 

As far as putting it back on the nut that holds it will pull it on. You need to check the clearance first before taking apart. Then if gap is too big you remove enough spacer to get it back to spec. If gap is good then reassemble as it was.

Your gap sounds like it might be OK since the compressor is functioning normally.

Proper Gap is about .3mm or 0.012" (12 thousandths feeler guage.)

I am not so sure that the holes are 6mm I still think they are 5mm or 4.5mm? I just went to a NAPA and picked up three packages of 3ea 25MM (1") long socket cap screws. Just thread them in until they hit the body of the compressor and then tighten them a bit at a time around and then it pops off. (After removing the nut (10mm?))

I suggest that you use a bungee cord to hold the compressor up it fell down a few times while I was working with it until I got smart and used the bungee.

The bearing is definately the way to go. A new compressor is not CHEAP.

 

I bought a set of metal feeler gauges and found out that my clearance between the pulley and clutch is actually 0.035" which, according to what I have been reading on here, is too much. My daughter did tell me that the AC would stop cooling occasionally, then start back working. Once I get the clutch removed, should I only put back the smallest washer or what?

I was able to start three M5 bolts (the only one our local Lowe's had) into the threaded holes surrounding the center of the clutch, hold the clutch still with them, and remove the 10mm center bolt that secures the clutch - all with it still in place and without removing any other component (other than the serpentine belt). But after removing the center bolt, and tightening the M5 bolts down gradually, I was not able to get the clutch to come off. The three bolts have all actually started diverting and turning outward from the center of the clutch, and do not appear to be pulling the clutch off (so I stopped, pic below). I can start a screwdriver into the gap between the clutch and pulley, but it seems like I am only flexing the thing, not removing it. I guess I am indeed going to have to remove the PS pump, alternator and bracket, and pull the compressor up a little to where I can use some tool "meant for" pulling the clutch. In the meantime, I got a serpentine belt with the same number of ribs that is a little longer than a wire I stretched around the pulleys (it was the shortest one AutoZone had). It bypasses the AC compressor (since it is presently not working right and is kind of locked in place anyway with these three bolts still in it) but goes around the crank, tensioner and idler pulleys, PS pump pulley, and alternator pulley - everything but the AC compressor. It is not as tight as I would like it (just a tad too long), but there is very little movement of the tensioner and "loose belt" noise, especially compared to the noise the AC compressor bearing was making before. I'm not crazy about it, but it is a "get-by" until I have another day to work on the AC compressor (pulling clutch and ordering a bearing). Any ideas? Thanks as always!