My daughters 850 stalls after it warmes up. I took it for a spin around the block after fixing the stiff steering issue and ended up pushing it home! It stared immediately last night and after a 5min idle sputtered and died will not restart warm untill cold. Any ideas?

 

Is the Check Engine Light on? Does it idle rough or run rough before it sputters and dies?

My gut says the fuel pump relay but I really don't have enough information.

...Lee

 

Lee,
No, the engine light is off and even the emission fault light I had before went away (removed the front sensor and cleaned it?!) I just started it today and it ran I shut it off before it had a chance to warm up. It runs good with no hickups untill the temp. needle reaches the mid point then the engine dies and won't restart! As for clues: we had a rainy day 2 days ago and it did not start right away it took a few minutes of trying before it started (but engine died and I ended up pushing it home.... ouch!). I connected the OBD2 and it had a P0120 throttle position error code which I erased and the code did not return. Also there is smoke comming out of the oil dip stick when engine is running. I was reading that this is caused by a bad PCV ?.

 

Just thought I'd through my two cents in. The 96 850 I purchased was doing the same thing with the oil smoking through the dip stick A local mechanic was saying a bad head gasket but after checking out the system my self found that Volvo uses a unique pvc style system. You should check the flame trap and oil separator system I found ours clogged . I purchased a kit through FCP Groton and upon replacing system it cleared the problem. Some say that you don't need the flame trap and just remove it but it's only a couple bucks.

 

thanks petek,
the flame trap was cleaned but gets oily very fast, I don't know what the oil separator system is.

 

The oil separator sits under the intake manifold I replaced this when doing the flame trap also all related hoses. The only way to easily do this is to remove the intake manifold usually hoses are cracked or plugged It took me several hours to do having never attempted before.You'll need to order new manifold gaskets and o-rings for the injectors ( I didn't need but ordered just in case ) Also you have to get some narrow hose clamps for the hoses on the separator the originals are the crimp type have to cut to get off.

 

Here's a link that shows parts http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/63

 

Delirious,

It does sound like you have a PCV problem but that won't cause the other problems you describe unless it is so clogged that it is pumping oil into the intake manifold. You need to deal with that problem before it starts blowing the seals on the engine. The rear main seal is a cheap part that is a very big deal to replace since the transmission and the flywheel both need to be removed to get to it.

I'm scratching my ever balding head with the temperature aspect of this problem. If the temperature gauge didn't work at all I would be pointing you toward the ECT sensor but it sounds like it is working OK based on the indication on the dash. It would also throw a code if the ECU didn't see a valid signal.

What is the fuel pressure on the rail after it dies?

...Lee

 

I don't have any tools to test fuel pressure but I hear the pump noise.
O.K. It just died on me again!!!! it idled for about 20 min. started to sputter and then died aand refused to start. I'm writting this while it cools off, I'll see if it will start cold so that I can drive it back in the driveway instead of pushing it like last time.
- I have checked the Fuel pump relay ie. I opened the cover and looked inside, its the pink colour cover 103) I guess I could get a junker one to test it.
- I checked the IAC valve - ran wires and it moves and shook it and it jiggles

I have read many tails of stalling issues with these cars and now I am getting deperate and starting to hate this car.

HELP!

 

The way you say it stumbled sounds like you lost something in the fuel system.
Maybe the relay or fuel pump. You can make a light bulb setup and connect it by the plug for the fuel pump and see if you still have power when it dies and will not start. If you still have power then the pump might be bad. If the light goes out then it stubles and dies the relay is bad.

 

I would replace the pump & relay anyway as an insurance. They are known to go bad and we have been receiving a number of posts with the same problem. It is about time that those 2 items are going out for all 850s. You do not have to spend a fortune for a new Volvo pump assy; all you need is the core insert made by Pierburg of Germany; OEM. The OEM relay, Stribel, is approx $50.

And when was the last tune-up?


JPN

 

Thanks tech I will try it. What about the TPS ?

HaHa I replace what's broken .... usually. This reminds me I still have not replaced the fuel filter in some 200k km. I guess I will do that too.

 

Couldn't that also be a ECT problem?

 

Hallelujah,
I think it is fixed! Changed the fuel filter and she ran for 30min n.p. little hickups here and there but did not stall! Last time the filter was changed was in '99 when we bought the car. I had a brand new filter in the box but neglected to change it ...till now. DOUGH!
Regarding the fuel filter change, here is good info: http://volvospeed.com/Repair/fuelfilter.php
The only thing worth adding to the above write up is to pull fuse no.2 (fuel pump) and run the car untill it stalls to use up the fuel in the lines before disconnecting anything, there is a line relief valve which will also release a little bit of fuel and lastly use a 17MM open wrench to push the hose off the filter connectors. Have a plastic yogurt container handy to catch all remaining fuel, I only got about 250ml this way.
Thanks for your help, I learned a great deal trying to solve this problem, one of them is a lesson on regular maintenence!

 

Just jumper the fuel pump relay out. There are 4 terminals on (most) relays. 31, 31b, 15, and 87. Put a jumper wire between the socket positions associated with 15 and 87. If it runs fine and life is good after the jumper is put in place you can either replace or repair the fuel pump relay.

Here is how I have repaired some of mine for only a couple of dollars worth of Radio Shack parts.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/cha...pic.php?t=9681

...Lee

 

I am still skeptical that a dirty fuel filter would have caused the original problem. But oh well, the car does not stall.

See my 2nd reply at the following thread and give a good tune-up. FCP Groton sells a good tune-up kit.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/new-volvo-850-owners-read-important-thread-also-applies-s-v70s-9266/


JPN

 

Right you are! it eventually did stall 2 days later. I was prepared however and promptly replaced the fuel pump relay as Tech mentioned in his post. Running good ever since.
So in retrospect the clean filter helped by not straining the old relay but the root cause was the relay.
Thanks for your help!

 

Glad all is good now.