Hello everyone. I have an 850 Turbo 96. I got it with 63k on it. I have put a few miles on it but when I changed the oil I must have done something wrong. I had it jacked up, changed it fine, ever since it has been pulling to the right. And when the wheel is centered it goes left pretty strongly. I had an alignment done at a well-respected local Volvo dealer and the charts came back rough. The toe was the worst out of alignment. But, it still does the same thing even after. What should I check? Is it worth just doing an overhaul or should I try this first, this next. I’ve posted this before and got the response that when they disconnected my rack they did not center it. I want to find out if that is the issue before I demand a free re-alignment. Any advice would be fantastic. Thanks again guys. P.S. I hope Ford sells Volvo...

 

I'm sorry but I am having trouble understanding what you are saying? In any case you need to take it back to the dealer to find out why it is pulling. Did it just start pulling after you changed the oil? Did you have the alignment since changing the oil or before? If it started pulling after changing the oil, you probably put the jack/jack stand in wrong place and got something out of wack. You will need to have the dealer check it out.

 

Maybe you have a bad tire.

 

The first 2 replies would pretty much hit the bull's eye. When you jacked up the car, where did you place the jack pad (the point that touched the car)? And did you use a pair of jackstands (which is a MUST to prevent car from falling on you), where did you place them?

If it was not for deformation due to improper procedure and if the tyres are fine in terms of air pressure & wheel being perfectly round, the other possibilities could be the brake-pad piston got stuck in the caliper, parking brake not releasing completely, or other suspension component damage (loose ball joint, control arm bushing disintegrated, bent components, etc...).

Even if they did not centre the front end, the car should still drive straight, except the steering wheel would be off the centre. I do not believe the dealer disconnected the rack, because it is not a part of alignment but they must have adjusted the tie-rod if the toe setting was off.

So, tell us about the tyres, as well as how you jacked up the car so we can help you better.

P.S: I too hope that Ford sells Volvo. If Volvo still cannot be independent, then I would hope Lexus (Toyota) takes over and leave Volvo alone as much as possible in terms of product design & engineering, except Lexus could give advice in overall quality on electrical & electronic systems.


JPN

 

I put the jack under the font right, under the main bolt on the shock. The round dimpled part. I chaged the oil durring this session, and yes I always use two floor jacks. The tires are fairly new good years. They seem to be in fine order but what should I look for? Is anyone near Rockford, Illinois? Haha. Thanks again guys. My first post of a little rushed. I was posting between dutch bags at work. Thanks again.

 

The way I jack up our 850 is to put a floor jack on the metal pad of the frame rail right between the doors, and then I put the jack stands under the subframe. If you jacked the car up by the shock end of the A-Arm, you may have twisted something.

Glenn

 

Where I jack mine is right behind the front tires on the back side of the subframe. Then I put a jackstand under the subframe and lower the car onto the jackstand. My guess is you might have messed something up by jacking directly under the strut. I would have somebody familiar with suspension check it out if I were you. The dealer is the best choice of course, but also the most expensive. I actually trust one of the NTB shops here to do some of my work. I haven't had any problems so far.

 

Yes I would inspect the control arm to see if it is bent.

I put the jack pad in the front centre of the sub-frame, with a piece of wood wedged between the jack pad and the sub-frame to prevent damage/deformation. I then place a pair of jackstands at each side of the sub-frame, then lower the jack.

If you could post pics, that would be the best but if you do not have a digital camera, then have a fully-certified ASE Master Technician inspect the suspension components for you.


JPN

 

What should I take pictures of? Everything possible or do you want a specific angle/shot? How much should I anticipte the price to be to get it looked at? It doesent pull out of control, just noticeable and if you let the wheel go its plain as day. I should have never let my father help me out. Hah. Thanks again guys

 

I just set up to have it looked at. A quote is due. Haha, that will make them tell me what I need to do. I’m not THAT afraid to work on it myself. I have a few cronies who can more then throw on a wrench. Basically, the car got jacked up where the shock meets the strut. What should I plan on replacing? This is the front left side. The steering wheel is perfectly centered it veers left. But, when let go it turns the wheel 15 - 20 degrees to the right. This happened after it got jacked incorrectly. Before it was perfect. Thanks!!

 

i just want to clarify something for when i next have to jack up my car and don't want to mess something up - which part is the subframe? Usually i jack up the car on what i thought was the frame, where the lower panel meets the frame - generally isn't there a spot that indicates jack placement?

 

Technically there is no shock in the front of the car. They are called struts. I hear many people referring to them as shocks, but it's really incorrect. I just went out and looked up underneath mind to see where you are talking about. I think it's where the strut actually bolts in at the bottom. I really wouldn't think it would do that much damage to jack it up there. Let us know what you find out. I'm very curious.

 

See attached pics for sub-frame. I marked where I place the hydraulic jack in red, and green for the positions for jackstands. I wedge a piece of wood between the sub-frame and the jack pad, otherwise the subframe may suffer minor damage.

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/jackingpoints.php

"Shock absorber" is also an incorrect terminology. It is actually the springs that absorb shocks, and the dampers (so-called shocks or struts) work to eliminate repetitive bouncing. Strut is just a damper with coil spring installed on it. If you look at the rear, the damper and coil spring are separate.


JPN

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/70A254409C314B078BA949FDF25BBF30.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/2667519C696E4B6E9B3CA669BCE05A4E.jpg[/IMG]

 

In that picture that JPN posted where the car is on the lift, I put my jack right where the pads are for the lift. They are circled in blue on that picture. I put jackstands about where JPN does. Those look like some bald tires on that car on the lift.

 

Yes they do look bald; the photo came from volvospeed.

When you use a hydraulic jack, use a decent jack not the ones sold at auto parts shop because they are cheap and may fail at the worst moment. As far as the jackstands go, I have a pair of Craftsman Professional ($20) and I bought a pair that had +50% capacity because they were made in C..... I am a stubborn supporter of Made in USA but U.S-made jackstands were not available at Sears.


JPN

 

Thanks for the pics JPN! That's good info to know for the next time i need to jack the car up.

 

No prob, I hope there was no damage on your 850. When you have questions, ask away and we'll be here to help you.


JPN

 

3507923 is where the jack was put. I am taking it in first thing monday to get it looked at. Ill scan in the report/quote and see what you guys think. I would love to get my Volvo back to cherry... Some day.

 

You will. Just hang in there. These are great car, and they require some maintenance. But not that bad to be honest. They are made for people like cars, not people who just drive cars to get where they want to go.

People thought I was crazy when I said I would rather get rid of my 1980 Porsche 911SC than my 850 Volvo. Guess what when Money got tight the Porsche was gone, but the Volvo stayed and was eventually replaced with the white 850 R.

 

Ok, so they did a front end insepction charged me $45.00 and found nothing. They said they were going to put it back up on the rack and see what the deal is. Ill update everyone when I get it back today. Also, I had them quote me on a coolent flush, $109.00, t-belt $330.00, and oil change at $40.00 is this fair? Tell me what you guys think. Thanks!