Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

stubborn 1997 850r barely starts

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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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Default stubborn 1997 850r barely starts

I have a stubborn 1997 volvo 850r with 130k(true mileage unknown, bearing is dead). It has a hard time starting. It usually takes me about 5 minutes to start the car, it cranks and at random moment it will fire up, sometimes right away and sometimes after several minutes and sometimes doesnt want to fire up at all. So far I have replaced, wires, rotor cap, coil and camshaft sensor. The real kicker is once it fires up, it runs perfectly fine and can drive for hours without any hesitation. Starting is the issue. I tested fuel and all is good, compression seems good because it runs very well once it fires over but I havent had that tester. I am still going back to ignition for possible cause. I am not getting a check engine light so I am replacing parts blind. I am beginning to lean towards crankshaft sensor? any suggestions guys?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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when you turn the key does it turn over? or does it not turn over, then after a few tries you can get it to crank?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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What were your compression numbers?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 04:18 AM
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He has NO compression numbers, it's an assumption because it runs once started.

I'm with Matt, does it start ever time it cranks? Or does it NOT crank sometime? How long has this been going on? Do you hear a click under the hood ever time you turn the key?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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You are right, I don't have compression numbers. It cranks evey time I turn the key but has a hard time turning over. Sometimes it takes 5 minutes of cracking it for it to fire up and sometimes (rarely) it will fire up on the first try.
It cranks every time but doesn't start right away. I feel like its easier on the cold start.

I took the car to autoscandia (volvo only shop) and they said camshaft or crankshaft sensor (forgot which one). I replaced the camshaft sensor last night, still no dice
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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P.s. I just bought the car with this issue. I only lake $1000 so I'm thinking worst case scenario is I will sell and break even but I REALLY dont want to. There has only been one previous owner and history is unknown. Bought the car from some shady dealer in Maryland.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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Well, the main thing you need for start is SPARK, PROPER FUEL PRESSURE, AND AIR. Maybe you have an idle control valve problem. I would check compression due to the fact that the shady car place you purchased it from probably had the same problem and tried to fix it. They know more than you do about the problem. A '97 R should sell for more than $1,000 wrecked if driveable.

How did you check fuel pressure? The regulator may be bad. Hope you figure it out.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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Fuel pressure is good, shop tested. I also swapped plugs and rotor this morning, still no dice. I feel like I will end up with a mental break down with this car
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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QUICK UPDATE. Swapping out plugs didnt do much BUT after I replaced the rotor things gotten a little better. This time instead of taking many multiple tries, now it will start on the 3rd to 5th try. Also on the first or second try it will have a premature start where it doesnt really start but putters for a second before dieing. I noticed that inside the distributor cap there is a cover for the rotor, I cant seem to have it stay in place so I think after I put the distributor cap back on, that cover just bounces around, do I really need this cover and could that be the cause? It definetely gotten better after swapping out the rotor.
Recap of events and parts replaced.
Fuel pressure checked out by the shop, relays ok. New coil, rotor, distributor cap, wires, plugs and camshaft positioning sensor.

I am still leaning towars crankshaft positioning sensor.....any thoughts?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 03:05 PM
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Cranks & turning over is the same thing. Yes you do need that cap, there are NO extra parts on that car. Fuel pressure is iffy when the pump is going out. Also, how long are you holding the key?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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Usually 2-5 seconds at a time, when it does chooses to fire up thats all it takes. I replaced the crankshaft sensor and it fired up 2 times in a row without hesitation but my happiness was short lived when I tried to restart it for the third time. Doing the same thing as it did before all over again. The only thing I got left was to replace the fuel filter as it has NEVER been replaced but somehow I doubt it will make a difference. I have officially hit a brick wall.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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could this be caused by fuel relay? I pulled the relay and put it back in and I immediately heard fuel RAIL go to work so I dont think that that could be the issue.
Just replaced the fuel filter and still no change although the old filter was really backed up, I tried blowing into it (giggity) and i could barely get anything out of the other end. Also I noticed dirty fuel come out of it, grey in color.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by iluvmyslut
could this be caused by fuel relay? I pulled the relay and put it back in and I immediately heard fuel RAIL go to work so I dont think that that could be the issue.
Just replaced the fuel filter and still no change although the old filter was really backed up, I tried blowing into it (giggity) and i could barely get anything out of the other end. Also I noticed dirty fuel come out of it, grey in color.
Yes, fuel pump relays can indeed be flaky; you can put a test light on fuel pump hot wire or ck your fuel pressure at the rail when your next no-start happens. BTW; fuel pump itself could be flaky too; need to ck the fuel pressure when the no-start actually happens.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 07:50 AM
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Also have them check and make sure the injectors are not leaking and washing the cylinders down. That would cause lower compression and not start right away but then start and run normal.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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Ok as of this morning the car doesnt want to fire over at all. It will crank all day long but doesnt fire over. I am beginning to think its fuel now even though volvo shop said that fuel pressure is good. I have few concerns. My gas tanks is close to E right now, I can hear the fuel pump kick in when turning the key to ON. After pulling out the relay and putting it back in I can hear the fuel rail kick in. Also after cranking it for 30 seconds, I pushed on the relief valve on the fuel rail and barely any fuel came out. I did replace the fuel filter yesterday and notice how backed up it was and the fuel coming out was very dirty (grey).
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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If the seals or whatever in the fuel pump are bad/gone, the pump and run all day and not put out the pressure needed to open the injectors and start the car. So, don't be fulled by the sound of a pump turning on.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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ok, so injectors are good and I am definetely getting strong fuel to the rail BUT I noticed that hoses going in and out of the fuel pressure regulator are completely worn out with holes in them. I tried blowing into the regulator and I cant get any air through. Could the worn out hoses be the issue? I mean they were completely exposed and rotted away/
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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How do you know you are getting sufficent fuel pressure? If the fuel lines were worn out they would be leaking. The regulator could be bad but what fuel pressure are you getting?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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Have you checked the ignition coil?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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I'm not talking.g about fuel lines. There are two fuel lines that air on top of the valve cover. One goes to the fuel rail and the other has an l shaped fuel hose going to the fuel regulator and then coming out of it is the vacuum line going to the throttle body. I was referring to those two. Also there are two open nipples on the air box. Anyone has any idea where those two go?
 
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