I searched for a mechanic to do this job and everyone turned it down. After reading some of the write ups it just seemed like too much for a parking lot repair. I was forced to try so I just ran with it. Here how I did it.

My time invested 2.5 hours setup to end of clean up.

Tools
Welder (I think you could do without this but I used one)
reciprocating saw with metal blade (again optional)
Drill with hole saw (Not an option if you like speedy repairs in my opinion)
1/2" breaker bar
1/2" ratchet
18mm socket
14mm socket
hammer (I used a mini sledge)
flat blade screwdriver
home made press (optional but I was reusing the bolts so I didn't want to risk ruining them)
Impact (optional because it can be done with a ratchet, I used an electric impact)

Materials
Bushings (not an option!)
lube (I used 3 in 1 oil because that's what I had in my tool bag)
fine sandpaper or other corrosion cleaning instrument
16" of 1/2"x1/2" steel rod (optional material for press fabrication)
1 grade 5 3" long 3/4" bolt with nut ( I chose this size because I had a 30mm socket in my bag)
1 grade 5 4" long 3/4" bolt
1 grade 8 3/4" flat washer (the nuts and bolts are optional depending on if you make a press)
4" pulley with a 1" center (for the press)
Locktite (for reusing the bolts)

Procedure
Disconnect battery (just in case)
Pull E-brake
Jack up the car and install jack stands (I put them where the rear subframe bushings are and they didn't hurt a thing)
Use the breaker bar and 18mm socket to loosen the bolt on one of the front bushings and finish with the ratchet, or just remove with the impact. (I started with the drivers side bushing)
Use the drill with hole saw to cut out the center of the bushing.

Important!: do not try to just cut all the way with the hole saw and take out a plug. Work the hole saw slowly in a wobbling motion to take out as much rubber as possible as you go. It is important to chose a hole saw that is a bit bigger than the metal sleeve and a bit smaller than the plastic outer sleeve so you can do this. Again full speed with the drill but don't push to hard and work it around so it chews lots of rubber out. The plug should just fall out and it wont take long if your bushings are good and shot.

Now use the screwdriver to break off the horizontal part of the plastic sleeve until a small section is out of the way and you can see the vertical inside plastic. Tap the screwdriver between the plastic and the subframe until it clears the top. Now you should be able to pull the screwdriver and pop the bushing out onto the ground easily. ( I was 4 for 4 with this method at about 5 minutes a piece.)

At this point I fabricated the press.
Cut four 4" pieces of steel rod
weld two of them parallel to each other on either side of the 3/4 inch nut. It resembles a letter H with the nut in the middle. Weld the other two pieces of steel to the bottom of the letter H to raise it up 1/2". If the piece is laying flat looking down from above it will be a two 4" pieces of steel 3" apart parallel with the H setting on top across the middle. Weld the H to the parallel bottom pieces. I used the 4" 3/4" bolt with the washer through the pulley threading into the fabricated steel piece.

Using the press.
Set the press on top of the bushing hole in the subframe with the nut centered. (the nut will be 3/4" above the subframe leaving room for the top of the bushing when it is pressed in.

Lube the bushing and press it into the hole so that it stays put using your hand.

Insert the bolt with washer through the pulley. Insert that setup through the bushing and thread it into the fabricated fixture on top.

Now using either either the 30mm ratchet or impact run the bolt in until there is too much bolt coming out the top to continue.

Back the 4" bolt out and replace it with the 3" bolt and repeat. (The bushing should be fully pressed in now)

Remove the bolt and the fixture on top and install the factory bolt and you are done with this side. (I spent about ten minutes per bushing on this step and it took me about 10 minutes to fabricate the press.)


Repeat for the other bushings and you are good to go.

On my car the front bushings went in so easy with the press I decided to try them with the factory bolt and a spacer on top for clearance. I drilled out and removed the bushing just the same only I used the plate that is removed with the bolt to press the bushings in. I used the top piece of my press upside down as a spacer. The bushings went right in. I backed out the bolt to remove the spacer and tightened it up and it was good to go. (Hence the optional press reference)

Sorry for the lack of pics I did this entire job in the parking lot of a hotel and I was in a hurry.

Cheers!

 

At this point I fabricated the press.
Cut four 4" pieces of steel rod
weld two of them parallel to each other on either side of the 3/4 inch nut. It resembles a letter H with the nut in the middle. Weld the other two pieces of steel to the bottom of the letter H to raise it up 1/2". If the piece is laying flat looking down from above it will be a two 4" pieces of steel 3" apart parallel with the H setting on top across the middle. Weld the H to the parallel bottom pieces. I used the 4" 3/4" bolt with the washer through the pulley threading into the fabricated steel piece.

Now that you're out of the parking lot how about a picture of the tool ??

 

Ill get that up this evening.

 

By the time I get to my computer I am half dead so if anything is unclear, misspelled, or just stupid please let me know.

 

Nice! Does your drive any differently? More firm, quieter, etc?

 

This car has been so neglected that it seemed like there was five different rattling metal on metal sounds. After thia repair I am left with one obvious sound. All of the other sounds went away. The steering is definitely tighter. The vibration in the car is almost gone completely. The car is very close to solid now.