Today I'm going to perform the TD04-15g rebuild. I'm not going to lie here, I'm scared s***less that I'm going to screw something up. I've assembled snap ring pliers, a mallet, metric ratchet set, torque wrench, pivoting metric wrenches, carbon cleaner and the rebuild kit.

Does anyone have any tips they'd like to pass along, i'm doing this after work tonight. I was going to follow the write up http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=48611

Will i need to drain all the oil?
Has anyone figured a way to tighten the reverse threaded turbine nut to around 2Nm. or 1.5 lb/ft. I very worried of over-tightening or under-tightening, and it has proven near impossible to get a torque screwdriver to this spec for less than $180.

 

Yeah. Don't do it. You will have to get the turbo balanced when your done anyways. If you don't, than you risk the chance of the shaft being out of balance, then you risk the chance of the fins coming into contact with the housings. Sweet, now the rebuild kit you just installed is toast and you need new turbines and maybe new housings.

Just a thought, only one of many possibilities that could happen if it's not done right.

 

I disagree...Do it. Dont be scared. Its not that hard. before you take the nut off the compressor wheel mark it, mark the wheel, mark everything where it is. Then when you put it back together you dont have to worry about how tight and where it goes since its lined up and that will keep you from having to balance it.

Clean, clean, clean. Get it clean. I dropped by a turbo rebuild shop in town and had a nice talk with them before I did mine. They gave me simple tips like put a T-handle with your socket size in a vise then place the cartridge in the socket and use a second T-handle to tighten it. That way you dont run the risk of bending the shaft.
If you assemble it slowly and cautiously you wont have any trouble. Make sure the journal bearings are well oiled when you assemble it. I used some of that oil that is like tar that you put in high mileage engines so it would stick and stay while the new oil made it through the system. In all sincerity, the hardest part I ran into was getting the main snap ring out. I could not find a pair of snap ring plyers to fit and what I used kept popping out.

On of the things that really helped me when doing this was talking to the shop. I was really worried about shaft play. I was surprised to hear that shaft play is expected. Its knowing when there is to much is the hard part. They said there has to be a small amount of shaft play for the oil to get through the bearing, where it not there it would burn up the bearing. That was good to know. End to end on the other hand is really bad.

Bottom line, I rebuilt my turbo and it works fantastic.

 

I have to say thanks for input. I will mark everything to avoid rebalancing, I'll be starting the disassembly now, and hopefully be done with it by 9.

So if anybody else wants to add, I'll be checking while i look at the haynes and other instructions.

Otherwise I found this GUNK Super-Concentrated {must be diluted} lol, or else what...
stuff for degreasing engine parts, and oven cleaner and CLR for the overkill.
Old toothbrush for the crevasses

 

There's another good write-up by 'J_CD' over at MVS that covers the process as he does it for the first time:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=30605

 

Personally, I would have it done professionally, but that is just me. I know it is not hard at all to rebuild a turbo, but being you are going to have to take it somewhere to have it rebalanced correctly anyway, why even mess with it.

 

Already snapped two bits from the good 'ol Harbor freight tools. Luckily they were expendable. I wouldn't mind having someone rebalance the turbo but I wouldn't drop more than $100 for the service. Who performs such services?

Aside from that, i think any mechanic that had to pull one of these f'ers off would charge for the pain and suffering.

My god these exhaust nuts! I've got the few attached to the engine left. I hoping the rest of my tools are rated for these torque loads! I found that by sitting on the block and using my feet I can apply greater force more liberally

 

Have you applied plenty of PB Blaster?

 

This writeup helped when I did mine.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showpo...50&postcount=1

I wasn't allowed to use the dishwasher

The two issues I had was getting snap ring pliers big enough to get the monster snap ring out. And keeping everything lined up when I put the fan back on, it wanted to turn as I tightened the nut and then the marks wouldn't line up. Had to do it a few time to get it perfect. Would have been nice to have another set of hands. Anyway it works great, yesterday I blew out an intercooler hose

 

How in the world has anyone gotten this circlip out?
I have snap ring pliers that fit, but as soon as i get the clip squeezed a bit, it slips out.

As soon as it gets squeezed should i pry the CHRA out or does the ring actually come out somehow?

*edit* the g/f is going to try to help.

Could someone find me the cheapest tool to achieve this 2Nm or 18in/lb torque spec? This was $40 but i can't tell if its reversible
http://www.amazon.com/Felo-071575212.../dp/B000E60PUU

 

Are you talking the compressor housing? It was a pain for me too. I ended up using long kneedle nose plyers. When the clip cleared the housing enough I slide small flat blade screw drivers in. After several slips it finally came out. Was just as easy getting back in.

 

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CB4Q8wIwAg#

 

Thanks everybody so far. I guess if you bitch enough people will offer some help. Mechanic heard and we went down got huge pair of snap ring pliers, 10 maybe 12in. Off in a few minutes, but the marks for aligning the turbines are gone. Dunno if my chemical baths took it off or what.

I'm thinking i have two options,
send it to Cali or Texas or AR because they're the only places i could find that would balance a turbo or,
try to copy the alignment position of the write-up i followed, hoping that all Mitsubishi turbos are set to the same alignment when manufactured.

But
Got my stylinmotors vac lines today, and almost the Alpine Mbus to 3.5mm, but Ebay uneeksupply are Ftards and sent me the IPOD version. Don't buy from them

 

Found a place that will balance turbos in Pittsburgh! Yay short drive away. Also, in Harrisburg pghcrank.com is the website with info.

*edit* Called and they say that they don't...

**edit**
couldn't fit the exhaust exducer flush so i got a press, and put it in nice and balanced. i thought it was the spring washer, after the snap ring popped out, i see i pitted the bronze seal plate. so all hope is not lost, i just had the spacer in backwards. duhh, not going to worry about balancing for now. replacing the seal plate and ending this maddness!

 

Final Verdict.
It looked like the bronze seal plate took a bullet, so if it was that easy to bend why not just hammer it flat again. Hammered that bass tard until it fit nice and flat, CHRA is one piece.

Things i did wrong. Didn't mark alignment and exducer or inducer. Put the spacer in backwards and bent the seal plate/bent it back flat again. Didn't torque the reverse nut to a torque measurement, just gave it good measure.
All of which i don't even give half a s*** anymore, so we will see if it works after 6. YEAH!

 

Good luck Sounds like you're going to need it. Just remember that the turbo shaft spins at over 100,000 rpm so when it let's loose because it's not balanced be prepared.

 

Be sure to share the prices all this is costing. If you have found a place to balance that might save a lot of us $ in the future if we rebuild ourselves.

 

1. For balancing, i give up. It's next to impossible to find anyone that has a VSR MKIII or anything to balance them. Unless you want to ship it to AR, TX, or CA then goodluck finding a place.

2. I just used an air compressor after the turbo would hand spin without rubbing anywhere, this spun it up pretty fast and it wasn't destroyed afterwards, so good enough for me. Shaft play has to be 0 from end to end, and minimal side to side. I mean it's not like I'm gonna run 25psi at 250,000 rpm.

3. It did smoke for a bit after install and has been dumping smoke out the tailpipe under heavy acceleration, as well as triggering a low coolant light for a second. smoking sparsely from the the general turbo back of the engine area. Not sure exactly yet why, I assume from too much oil (i was very nervous). Or is this signs of a leak from banjo bolts, exhaust seals, shaft overtightened?

4. I'm getting smoke from the dipstick, so I'm just gonna do the PVC myself (if you want something done right...) Then i'll add an oil catch and clean the EGR, and hope that ends this crap. Oh, and i'm replacing all the turbo inlet/outlet seals because they were non-existent or broke on removal.

5. All and all, i could have just replaced the vac lines and this would have solved my boost issue. overboosting and boost surges. which i did, and it is boosting solid now.

Costs:
Rebuild kit for a TD04HL-15G $60 - $80 Flatback
Spare oil $15
Coolant $12
Seals/Gasket $18
Harbor freight tools don't cut it, buy real ones. I borrowed
Time... 28 hours this is what kills you

Find a mechanic that would help you for little to no cost, use their snap ring pliers and what not.