Hello,
I am planning on replacing my TB, idler, tensioner, and tensioner roller within the next week. Possibly water pump, if need be. Anyway, I have read some tutorials and watched RSPI's videos as well as FCP's. Some suggest locking the cams, others dont mention it. How crucial is this? I know its crucial they dont move after being set, but how easily will they move? thanks

 

You don't need to lock them. If they move, move them back. Since there is no VVT, they shouldn't move.

 

gotcha, thanks for the info

 

+1 with ES6T. I do mine without a lock.

Bring the marks to their matching set points and then start swapping out components.

The lock is nice as it prevents the cams from moving but once it's back together you simply check the three marks and if they line up, rotate the engine a couple times by hand and then once again check the three marks to make sure everything is lined up and nothing slipped before hitting the key.

 

okay, another question. when rotating the engine by hand how much resistance should I feel? I've never done this before and dont know what to expect

 

When you're ready to do the job, pull the plugs and spin the engine. There isn't a lot of resistance but it will give you a feel for it.

What you're looking for AFTER you put on the belt is that it tracks correctly on the idlers and cams and that it doesn't slip. Turn the crankshaft four full revolutions. Two times and check the marks, two more check again and it they still line up you should be good to drop the plugs in and hit the key. Only go clockwise unless you do feel something. Then you want to gently back away from it. Take photos and post if you run into anything.

You want to make sure you DON'T feel something hitting like piston to valve.

When you go to compress the hydraulic adjuster you'll need to put it in a vise and take your time retracting it. It doesn't need to go far but it's best for the part if you take it easy retracting and pinning it.

There is also a plastic disc that goes on the tensioner before you put it against the tensioner pulleys arm. Pay attention to how it comes off, it's in the directions if you forget.

 

If the plugs are in you will feel resistance due to compression, if out, it will crank easy.

If the valves hit pistons, you will NOT be able to crank it over by hand. It's not hard, just make sure you know where your timing marks are.

 

okay, thanks a lot guys. the more I've been looking at this, the more I think it will be easier than when I did the pcv

 

Just take your time, it will be easy.

 

you do not need to lock the cams on a 97 model. i didnt have to lock my cam when l was doing my timing belt. i couldnt even move them by hand after taking off the belt.just mark them in case.

 

yea I'll keep you guys updated, and I'm doing this on the '94. should have specified

 

another quick question. do you guys know which marks the crank on my car will have, the one with one notch or two?

 

well, everything is on and ready to go except I have to get a new radiator plug because the ****ty plastic one broke

 

Hope it came out, they are real cheap.

 

yea i got it out. i just have to find a replacement, Im hoping the dealership will have one