I changed the timing belt last weekend and for anyone planing this project if you can get the harmonic balancer / crank accessory pulley off it will make it a lot easier.

 

But you don't have to remove it. It just takes some patient fiddling to get the belt around the post at the lower gear.

 

I did it without removing the pully but I could see how it would have been a lot easier if I had.

 

you know? when I changed mine and read all could find about changing it, there wasn't any information about that drasted post you have to fiddle with. I think it would be more trouble than its worth to take out the balancer, but a warning and technique on how to remove (without cutting) then widdle in the new belt without hurting it would have been helpful!

I regret not having my camera handy and clean hands to have made a write up on it

 

the easiest way is to cut the old belt, set the cams to TDC and when its time to put on the new belt put it in place between the HB and the oil pump nipple, and turn the crank like 3 teeth... it pops right in.

Set you crank to TDC, route the belt and pop the tensioner... done.. easy peasy lemon squeezy

 

remove 30 mm nut

remove (4) 10 mm head bolts

take long bar

carefully use the tensioner bolt as the fulcrum

pry crank pulley/balancer assembly off.

takes under 30 seconds.

cutting belt and working hard to get new belt around pulley.

10-??? minutes

realizing how much time you saved yourself after doing it the way I just suggested, priceless.

 

Remove the crank pulley in 30 seconds? I'd like to see that.

For some reason I never have trouble getting the belt under the stud there. Takes me less than a minute. I must be doing it wrong in a good way.

 

same here, rspi....never bothered taking it off because its just not that hard to thread through...and i agree, i wana see someone take a crank pulley off in under a minute.

 

my timing belt count on these Volvos is over 100 approaching 200.

I have a good set-up I have put together for timing belt jobs. About 10 -- 11 tools if you count a paint pen.

Oh and impact tools. Can't do much without them.

 

I'd almost rather pull an axle than a crank pulley.

 

When I did this project I found the exhaust valve cam off by one tooth on the belt, what would this cause? The engine seems a little smoother now.

 

Yeah! I did too. That's another thing I wasnt expecting. It appears that that camshaft may be under some pressure from another lifter from a cylinder that may be on an exhaust cycle which may make it slip.

I noticed this after I had the car sitting without a belt for a day or two while I was waiting for my parts. When I put it back together I noticed that the mark on that shaft was off...

Nice to know that I am not going nutz!

 

@Lifesgoodhere - Would you mind listing your set of 10 tools and a quick outline of your procedure. I'm about to do my first on daughter's 2001 s60. Thanks.

 

All sockets are 6 point, all wrenches are 15* off set ratcheting box end.

12mm -- 10mm 1/4" drive sockets

10mm -- 12mm -- 13mm -- 14mm -- wrenches

19mm -- 10mm --30mm 1/2" drive IMPACT sockets

(1) 2" long 1/4" drive extension -- (2) 8" long 1/2" drive extension

1/2" drive impact gun

1/4" long flex head ratchet

small screw driver

spring clamp

t-30 torx bit (for head cover)

serpentine belt tool if you are not sure of yourself in hooking 2 of the wrenches together)

hmm it is a little more than 10 tools oh well.

 

Awesome! I really appreciate it. Any chance you would give me a brief run down on your procedure? I think I've tracked down most of your posts on the subject but even a brief list would be of help.

Thanks Again

 

Here they are...

Badabo - badabing!

LOL

 

Hahaha..lmao. I've actually had to use badabo - badabing on some of my car repairs!