Hey guys...I'm finally going to be doing my timing belt this weekend (after putting it off for the last month). I've got the timing belt kit and read up various instructions I have found on the forums. Any last minute tips/tricks you can recommend? The instructions make it seem pretty easy, just a little time consuming. I plan on replacing the tensioners, water pump and serp belt as well. Unless the cam seals are leaking (which I don't think they are), I'm not touching those.

 

I am not a mechanic and have never done it in any other car before, but I did mine by myself the last time. Hardest part for me was getting the old belt out the bottom. I ended up saying the heck with it and cutting the belt. It was easier putting the new one in than getting the old out for some reason.

Make sure you turn it over by hand before using the key and feel for resistance. You can tell what is compression resistance vs metal on metal.

 

Even if you use a cam locking tool... check and re-check your timing marks before you attempt to start..

Better to be safe than sorry...

 

I believe I have read your instructions about doing that. Thanx

 

I definately will be triple-checking as that is my biggest worry. That would really suck to trash this engine, especially since I'm so close to getting my 200k sticker from Volvo (and my wife would be pissed since it's her car).

 

If you are very ginger with it you should have no problems with the timing moving.

Just if you feel like you may have shifted something align the timing marks.
Reminder.... the lower crank mark is very hard to see, almost looks like someone punched out a groove with a small paper clip... thats how small it is..

Also make sure you have a strong flashlight... it makes it easier to see the timing mark

 

Volvo 850 timing belts are super ez

1. You dont have remove the crank shaft pulley

2. You dont have remove a motor mount

3. You dont have to remove two dozen 10mm cover bolts

The only hard part is seeing the marks. Id find them and mark them with a dab of white paint.

Getting the belt around the crankshaft pulley especially at the five oclock position can be a real pain. You actually have to twist and stuff it in there.

Volvo uses a gasket not an O Ring for the water pump so its a real bear to clean up the side of the block to prepare the mating surface.

At two hundred thousand miles I would definitely do the cam seals. I dont think I would do them with less miles but cam seals are definitely an issue in high mileage vehicles.

Getting the water pump out is a real bear. I believe it comes out through the bottom. I actually broke my lower time belt case cover trying to get it out.

 

I'm not sure if you read any of my comments but I would NOT do the water pump unless it's leaking. Also I would NOT touch the cam seals if they are not leaking. If you have owned the car long, maybe you know if they are original or not. You can see them through the cam sprockets when you have the t-belt cover off. I think the key to those are the PCV system.

A TIP from me would be to make sure you have a good quality T-40 adapter to get the tensioner pully/roller off. I have stripped two of those bolts before I finally got a good bit.


Here are my 960 belt instructions. You can actually use them pretty much, other than the fan and radiator stuff.
Timing belt replacement instructions on a 1997 Volvo 960

After doing my 960 belt, I found the S70/850 belt pretty easy. Sure turns easier. As Jim said, turn the motor by hand at least twice before trying to start it.

 

Also un-bolting the right side motor mount and jacking up that side of the motor helps alot when accessing the water pump bolts.

Just make sure you use a block of wood on the jack so you dont damage the oil pan.

 

Its best to hand turn the engine over a couple times from the crank pulley before you try to start it.

 

Thanx for all the tips guys. I'm about 95% done (finishing up the rest tomorrow). All thats left is the serp belt and fill it up with coolant (figured I'd put some fresh coolant in there since I replaced the water pump).

All in all, wasn't as bad as I expected. The tight spaces made it take so long. I didn't replace the cam seals as they weren't leaking. Before pulling the pin on the new timing belt tensioner, I rotated the engine twice and the marks were lining up, so, I'm pretty confident she should turn over fine. Water pump was a bit of a PITA, but got it in there. Just hope it doesn't leak.

 

Why did you turn the motor with the pin in? Did you read that somewhere?

 

One set of instructions I read recommended to test it roughed in like that first before pulling the pin. Any reason you'd advise against that? I'm going back to work on it shortly and will turn it a few more times for piece of mind.

 

Success! Serp belt was a little uncooperative but, finally got on. Took her out for a 15 mile test drive and we're good to go. Thanx for all the input!

 

I would think that you take the risk of the belt jumping a cam tooth turning it with the belt loose, without the tension of the tensioner. Glad to hear you got'er done. Congrats!

 

I had the timing belt fail on my 1998 S-70 Non turbo. I know the chances are good I have bent at least a couple of valves. What is the general opinion on how to proceed. Time the engine throw another belt on see if it runs? Or suck it up and pull the head? Thanks

 

There is a 2% chance that no damage was done. Proceed from there.

 

I agree. For all that read in the future...pull the pin. Its better to be safe and if your wrong its not to difficult to pull it off, compress it and put it back on.

 

Concerning my broken timing belt on my 1998 S70...the tools I need to hold the cams in place..etc. To do the job of pulling the head and repairing the damage that has more then likely occurred...I have seen the posts to make these tools, unfortunately I do not have the resources to do so with my current living sitaution. Can these tools be purchased or rented? Does anyone in the forum have these tools that they may want to sell or rent? Thanks

 

Pull the pin on the tensioner. It's the only way you're going to know for sure you are lined up.
And it keeps you from jumping a tooth. You should rotate it by hand after everything is put back the way it's going to be when you go to start it (except for covers).
What did you use on the serpentine belt tensioner?

What is the 200K sticker?